M9 Assistance

My best advice is to just shoot it. Things tend to smooth out over time. Grip screws should just swap out.

Don't worry about the guide rod. Go buy some ammo instead and head to the range.

"First, what's the best way to lighten/smooth out the DA trigger pull?"

Shoot it. Then shoot it some more.


Same with all the other "mods". It seems people are more interested in modifying things these days than using whatever it is they have bought. I frequent a watch forum and a fountain pen forum, and it's the same thing on those sites.

Quit reading the internet until you can use your item enough to know which posters have a clue what they are talking about, and have enough experience to know what suits you.

I better take a nap, I seem cranky today.

Nice gun, by the way, hope you enjoy it.

lpsharp88 said:

First, what's the best way to lighten/smooth out the DA trigger pull?

Click to expand...

Install the reduced power hammer spring from the "D" version.

^^^^^

This. The "D" spring mod is very common, and works great. I've done it to mine right after I bought it. I also then quickly added the Elite II hammer which is a bit lighter. However, the D spring mod by itself works wonders, and the hammer is more aesthetics than anything, but may reduce lock time a bit. Do the spring mod, then go from there.

You don't need to waste a lot of ammo to get a better trigger pull.

The two screw styles can be used interchangably with the factory grips. I've seen military M9s with both styles (the only ones I've seen with Torx screws were issued to USAF officers). I've never had the standard screws back out on me (but then again, I pulled them off pretty regularly myself when I was cleaning the Afghan sand that managed to get all inside the pistol and mags!) I've also seen mostly metal, but some plastic (newer USAF issue M9s) guide rods. Either variant works fine.

Yeah, the older M9s came with slotted grip screws. The newer ones I see have the hex hed screws and plastic guide rod. The reason for the hex hed screws isn't to prevent them from backing out but to keep non-armorers from taking it apart. That being said though, I have hunted high and low in the tool box at many a CATM shop looking for the right size hex wrench and cussing the damn fool that got rid of a simple slot screw!!!

I would also agree to switch over to the D spring. It's a noticeable difference.

Other than that, you don't really need to do any more mods unless you want it to fill a certain niche such as long rang or for HD I'd add a light.

Do everything he does up until 2:23. Then put in the new spring and reassemble.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKGqtSCFhM4

I suspect I am even less of a gunsmith than you are, and the D spring really is a 2 minute fix, and should be well under $10. It really makes a tremendous difference.

I bought a D spring for my Cougar from Dave Olhasso, and then ended up getting a Competition spring for my 92FS from him as well. The Competition spring is even a smidgen lighter than the D spring.

For a mod, I would get a ticks rail.

http://www.trgear.com/osc/eshop/product_info.php/products_id/211

Non maring, easy off and on. The trigger will lighten after you use it. It will take a while to get used to it.

Then get a light or laser.