vault vault door ?

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jetsfan-24

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if i had a vault wall of 8 inch blocks with rebar in every hole with them drilled into the floor and wall and then filled with concrete would it make it better if i liq nail and tapcon 2 sheets of 1/2 inch plywood 2 the outside walls of the block ? next ? if i had a sturdy vault door which is 5/16 inch thick and welded a 3/16 piece of stainless steel over the whole door how much better would that make it ?
 
When speaking of physical barriers, obviously more is better. But nothing will prevent someone with enough time, tools, and determination from breaking in.

Your main line of defense is secrecy. Too many physical preparations tend to compromise secrecy. Can you trust the contractors that will do the work? (Considering that each one of them will tell ten other people, and so on.) There's a good reason the ancient Egyptians put the architects of the Pyramids to death when the job was done.
 
Alex nailed it. You'll end up paying a premium if you want to do it right. My local safe guy has a select group of trusted and skilled (highly paid to) contractors for this sort of thing.
 
Jetsfan;

Whose vault door are you looking at? "if i had a sturdy vault door which is 5/16 inch thick". Are you speaking of a vault door made by Sturdy? Or simply vault door that you have now? Perhaps you're looking to buy?

Reason I ask is that Graffunder does make vault doors to dimension. And believe me, they can be made "sturdy" enough for any applicaton.

900F
 
I wouldn't bother with the extra ply on the walls or sheet metal on the doors. Spend that extra time and money on either a better door, lock, thicker walls, rebar, concealment, security system, cameras with recorder, security service fee, additional safe inside the vault, etc, etc.

There are plenty of other things to add that will give you far more security than some ply or sheet metal.
 
If you want to do it "bank vault" style, go with #4 rebar every cell, every course for the CMU walls, grouted solid of course. For the slab and ceiling, it would be 8" thick, #4 rebar at 4" on center each way. Given that weight, consider a spread footing with 4" AB over compacted soil.

The plywood would be decorative at that point.
 
Jets;

Welding an additional plate on the face of the existing door won't be worth it IMHO.

900F
 
I’ve got a Sturdy vault door that I had installed back in DEC:

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So far, I’m pretty pleased. The company was great to deal with, all was/is as was advertised, and the installation was a breeze. Mine was installed into new construction. We built a “safe room”, 650 sq’ (8" reinforced poured concrete) with vault door under the 3 car garage. The ceiling is an engineered slab, 10” reinforced concrete. I’ll be moving my gunsafe inside when we finally occupy for a layered approach.

Mines an “inswing” with fire protection, panic button, and stainless plate over the lock mechanism.

Chuck
 
ChuckR;

Is your's also a 5/16th inch thick door?

900F

Yes, that's their "standard" vault door thickness.

We weren’t really looking at it as a "vault" door per sea, we wanted basically a storm shelter door, inswing, inside locking, with a combination lock VS keys.

Chuck
 
Now THAT's a shop

Here’s the rest:

DSC00527_zps1f1609c7.gif
DSC00528_zps7b24f408.gif
DSC00524_zps483ea5ef.gif

Right now I’m looking for used cabinets/wall-lockers to get all the stuff organized and put away. The reloading area is up and running, but not “there” yet. We're moving non-essential stuff from our current house into the room while we wait for completion and moving day. It's got heat/ac from the geothermal unit and is on its own temperature zone. So far, zero problems with humidity, which was/is a concern with the firearms and reloading equipment.

IF I can just keep my wife from turning into a SHTF quilt/sewing room, I’ll have it made!

Chuck
 
Fella's;

But, but, I already told her that the powder fumes are better'n moth balls!

900F
 
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