what cleaning chemicals is everyone using?

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Ballistol Ingredients (according to a specification from December 2002)

* pharmaceutical white oil: CAS RN 8042-47-5; Mineral oil
* Oleic acid: CAS RN 112-80-1
* C-5 alcohols: CAS RN 78-83-1; Isobutyl alcohol
* CAS RN 137-32-6; 2-Methylbutyl Alcohol
* CAS RN 100-51-6; BENZENEMETHANOL (9CI)
* different essential oils to perfume Ballistol


I also found this..

Ingred Name:LIQUID PARAFFIN OIL
CAS:8012-95-1
RTECS #:pY8030000
Other REC Limits:NONE RECOMMENDED
OSHA PEL:5 MG/M3
ACGIH TLV:5 MG/M3 (MIST); 9394

Ingred Name:pOTASSIUM OLEATE
CAS:143-18-0
RTECS #:RK1150000
Other REC Limits:NONE RECOMMENDED

Ingred Name:BENZYL ALCOHOL
CAS:100-51-6
RTECS #:DN3150000
Other REC Limits:NONE RECOMMENDED

Ingred Name:VOLITILE ORGANIC CONTENT, NON-AEROSOL
RTECS #:9999999VC
Fraction by Wt: 5.3%
Other REC Limits:NONE RECOMMENDED

This is what I found today on ballistol.
 
As for Murphy's original oil soap:

Water - Consistency
Sodium Tallate - Cleaning Agent
Fragrance - Pleasant Scent
Tetrasodium EDTA - Maintains Product Stability
Lauramidopropyldimethylamine oxide - Cleaning Agent

And for the Squirt and Mop:
Water - Consistency
Sodium Tallate - Cleaning Agent
Fragrance - Pleasant Scent
Tetrasodium EDTA - Maintains Product Stability
Lauramidopropyldimethylamine oxide - Cleaning Agent
Preservative - Maintains Product Freshness
Dye - Color
 
Very good question. Also worth noting that just because a product uses x, y and z this year does not mean that next year they will no change it to some other item. I did find several references to it not being 'green'.

I found this chemical listed in these items.

method floor cleaner, sc johnson paste wax, swifter wetjet, metalist floor sealer, clorox proresults, metalist 20 floor finish, ecos floor cleaner.
 
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" Lauramidopropyldimethylamine oxide "

On a hunch I looked up a comparison of this chemical's name and the term -surfactant- , BINGO , Lauramidowhoisit is a main component of industrial cleaning chemicals along the same line as carpet cleaning solution.
Powerful stuff. Mega-Soap or some such.
 
Few additions to the list.

dawn:

trilosan,
water,
sodium lauryl sulfate,
sodium laureth sulfate,
lauramine oxide,
denatured alcohol,
sodium chloride,
ppg-26,
peg-8 proplhepyl,
ether,
pei-14,
peg-10/ppg-7 copolymer,
phenoxethanol,
methylisothiazolinone,
fragrence,
dye.


windex multi-surface:

water,
2-hexoxyethanol (cleaning agent),
butoxypropanol (cleaning agent),
propylene glycol (carrier),
sodium c4-17 sec-alkyl sulfonate (wetting agent),
acetic acid (cleaning agent - ingred in vinegar),
sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate (wetting agent),
lactic acid (pH adjuster),
fragrence.


windex crystal rain:

Water
2-Hexoxyethanol (Cleaning Agent)
Isopropyl Alcohol (Carrier)
Propylene Glycol (Carrier)
Sodium C14-17 Sec-Alkyl Sulfonate (Wetting Agent)
Videt EGM (Cleaning Agent)
Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster)
Fragrance
dye

From this it seems that windex crystal rain would be the most ideal product to use.
 
Interesting fact.

The C-5 alcohols talked about in the Ballistol recipe is commonly called fusel, a byproduct of ethanol fermentation.

So, was Klever a moonshiner or what? :D
 
I use WW2 US army bore cleaner as a quick clean at the range before heading home. (smelly stuff with benzene, use only outdoors) A few sloppy wet patches to soak the bore and I wipe down the lock and barrel flats. Then a hot soapy cleaning at home. The stuff was intended to neutralize old corrosive primers, so I figure it is good on black powder fouling.

It has served me quite well for the past thirty years.
 
I use WW2 US army bore cleaner as a quick clean at the range before heading home. (smelly stuff with benzene, use only outdoors) A few sloppy wet patches to soak the bore and I wipe down the lock and barrel flats. Then a hot soapy cleaning at home. The stuff was intended to neutralize old corrosive primers, so I figure it is good on black powder fouling.

It has served me quite well for the past thirty years.
More than you wanted to know about benzene, other than the fact that it is a carcinogen:

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/benzene/

Ballistol is pretty safe by comparison;

http://images.woodandmetal.com.s3.amazonaws.com/Ballistol_MSDS.pdf


I don't think you are doing yourself a favor by using the WWII stuff, my friend!
 
with mine. i just get a big bucket. steaming hot water with dish soap. pour some down the barrel to start. then get a patch on the ram rod, and work it up and down the barrel, it will start to pump water in and out of the touch hole. if the water gets to dirty change it out. keep going until the water spraying out the touch hole comes out clean. give it a pat down to help dry, dry patch the inside of the barrel and oil.

make sure you use alcohol to swab the bore before you shoot next so the oil in the barrel doesn't foul your powder.

for a quick clean at the range i have heard people use Windshield washer fluid. the more expensive stuff. has alcohol in it so it dries up and has cleaners in it. a patch or 2 of that and you are good to go again. i know i have to scrub my barrel at the range after every 3 rounds or i cant get another round pushed down the barrel. (barrel size of .458 i think, rounds sized to .451 a little fouling is a pain) i have found using a cardboard wad under my round helps as it pushed some of the fouling unto the top of the powder charge.
 
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I'm lazy.
I get no thrill from cleaning guns so I use the easiest and quickest method.
Cold water followed by Ballistol.
I'm done.
 
I use Murphy's Mix (equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, hydrogen peroxide, and rubbing alcohol) almost exclusively after shooting Black Powder in CAS. It does not need to be rinsed away.

Do the same in N-SSA. I use 3-5 patches then wipe dry. After finished for the day, after final clean up, just oil and pack away. At home before next match do a take down and clean up. If necessary, use Hoppe's no 9 if any hard fouling left behind.
 
If necessary, use Hoppe's no 9 if any hard fouling left behind.
:what:I thought this magic 'Murphy's Mix' cleaned everything out so there wouldn't be any hard fouling left behind...
 
:uhoh:Mykeal I was thinking of leading, not fouling. Should not post when late and tired.


But then again, would not lead be hard fouling?:)
 
This whole thread has got to go down as the most ridiculous thread there ever
Was on here!!

ridiculous as in how? What we are finding is most of the commercial mixes use the same or very similar ingredients.
 
Haven't found anything better than hot water with or without a few drops of dish soap. Make sure the bore is completely dry then run a patch with a light oil (doesn't take much) on it. No rust in the last few decades.

Jeff
 
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