GP100 trigger stacking

Trade it in on a S&W?

www.clarkcustomguns.com

They do trigger work on GP-100s.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

Ruger DA triggers can be greatly improved but they will never feel anything like a tuned S&W. The geometry of the parts is completely different. Ruger makes extremely good guns for the money though. I do wish they would spend a little more time and effort on deburring their frames. But then the price would have to go up.

tomrkba said:

My GP100 has a Wolf 8# trigger return spring and an 11# hammer spring. The trigger stacks quite heavily at the beginning of the pull. How do I remove this, or at least reduce it?

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My (older) GP100 went to a gunsmith for a trigger job. The results were mediocre. I think it is best left alone or traded. The recent production SP101 in .357 has a very good DA trigger.

YZ,

NO, I'm going to disagree on the SP 101 .357's having a "very good DA trigger." I bought one about a year ago, very gritty DA trigger! Took it to a reputable smith and had an action job done on it, "THAT" was the only thing that made the DA trigger worth a hoot. The $65 I paid was worth it, now only shoot DA with this SP 101.

My experience differs. The Ruger GP100 can have a very excellent trigger job done to compete with the best an S&W can offer. The lock work is significantly different. The trigger return spring on a Ruger is not fighting the hammer spring like it does in an S&W. That along gives more latitude in tuning. A smith who takes the time to study and learn a Ruger's lock work can do wonders.

BBBBill said:

My experience differs. The Ruger GP100 can have a very excellent trigger job done to compete with the best an S&W can offer. The lock work is significantly different. The trigger return spring on a Ruger is not fighting the hammer spring like it does in an S&W. That along gives more latitude in tuning. A smith who takes the time to study and learn a Ruger's lock work can do wonders.

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My gunsmith who has a good reputation locally told me he'd rather work a S&W. I think our mileage varies because at Ruger the trigger pull has not been a priority, or a selling point. They sell on frame strength, durability, the ability to handle hot reloads. In my case, the DA trigger improved a little, and I started seeing light primer strikes, also a little.
It seems to me some manufacturers quietly endorse heavy DA triggers to ward off lawsuits, or make them more defensible. Rumor has it Colt dropped out because of them too.
Back to the topic, it is just my experience. Keep it Ruger, or trade.

Before you can safely reduce spring rates, you must confirm that the gun is in spec and preferably on the tighter side of tolerances. Endshake and headspace at minimum, firing pin protrusion at or very close to max spec, transfer bar dressed and trued, hammer nose recess adjusted to ensure that the transfer bar gets maximum contact, yoke straight, cylinder running true, timing corrected, burrs and casting/machining artifacts cleaned up as appropriate. Then the careful polishing to smooth mating surfaces without adversely changing dimensions/fit. After all that, you will find that the smoothness of the action is so much better that the trigger pull is lighter and will seem less that it really is. It will usually be safe to try reduced power springs at this point, though you must always check for proper function and ignition reliability. You may not want to replace the springs after you feel a properly smoothed action.