Wad or...?

What's your preferred method of chain fire protection?

  • Over ball grease

    Votes: 13 19.4%
  • Lubed wad

    Votes: 30 44.8%
  • Grease and wad both

    Votes: 7 10.4%
  • Nothing, over sized lead is good enough!

    Votes: 13 19.4%
  • Doesn't matter to me as long as I use something!

    Votes: 4 6.0%

  • Total voters
    67
  • Poll closed .
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Joined
Jun 29, 2011
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Texas
OK so I'm curious what everyone is using for their black powder revolvers. If you make your own wads or over ball grease please share your recipe!
 
Much of the time I use a felt wad lubed with Gatofeo's lube.
I pick the wads up cheep from tables at cowboy shoots & sometimes off gunbroker or ebay.

Sometimes I use cornmeal over the powder & just pur Gatofeo's lube over the ball.
This is messier, but works well.
--Dawg

Gatofeo's lube (from an old post of his):
Years ago I began posting a bullet, patch and wad lubricant based on a 19th century recipe.
I used more precise ingredients than the 19th century version, which simply listed tallow, paraffin and beeswax.
Without changing the ratio, I began mixing:
1 part canning paraffin.
1 part mutton tallow.
1/2 part beeswax.
All measurements are by weight, NOT volume.
The result is an exceptional black powder lubricant that was later named by others, "Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant."

I use canning paraffin because it's pure. Who knows what lurks in old candles, especially if they're scented. Yes, paraffin is a petroleum product. Yes, petroleum greases and oils will creat a hard, tarry fouling when used with black powder. BUT canning paraffin doesn't do this. Long ago, a chemist told me that canning paraffin lacks the offending hydrocarbons.
I don't know about that, but I do know that canning paraffin (used to seal fruit preserves in jars) doesn't create a hard, tarry fouling.

Mutton tallow is needed. I've tried a variety of greases but mutton tallow is clearly superior. I've tried Crisco, and the tallow of beef, chicken, turkey, deer, pig, elk and even bear grease. Not tried moose,though. Or Dodo Bird for that matter ... might be kinda hard to get.
Mutton tallow has long been suggested for black powder lubricant, at least to the mid 1800s.
Canning paraffin is about as pure as you can get. Totally inert too.

Mix together some Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant for yourself. Dixie Gun Works sells mutton tallow at the best price I've found. A little goes a long way.
A hard felt wad soaked in melted Gatofeo No. 1 Lube keeps fouling soft and the bore cleaner than any other lubricant I've tried.
The dry lubricant in commercial wads is the worst, in my experience. Hardly makes a dent in bore fouling.

Make up a batch of Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant for yourself, and see if it doesn't work for you.
 
I shoot naked, baby.

Wait, I meant with no lube and bare balls.

Oh forget it, you know what I was trying to say. No lube, no wad, and no chain fires (so far).
 
Dude wads are for shotguns an women folk learnin ta shoot

wads take more time to reload cost more money if your buyin them
and generally take up room better suited for the holy black.


my grease mix varies with the season but 60/40 lard beeswax is about right
Ive recently come into some fine tallow and ill probably use that straight.

oh and i dont think wads do as good of a job of keeping things lubricated
and clean.

clean is probably not the right word? working is probably a better word.
 
Wouldn't using .454 balls seal the chambers enough to prevent chainfires? I'm in the same boat. I have no clue when it comes to b.p. Sorry for the thread hijacking.
 
I think chain fires would be eliminated with good sealing ball MAYBEE

but im not willing to chance it an besides fouling will shut down any
BP revolver thats why I use grease over ball
 
I would think that grease would attract more dirt. Also, wouldn't the grease melt out if you're carrying the gun around in the texas heat all day during the summer?
 
Alright enough of my thread hijacking I really appreciate the info and please get back to posting your recipes for the op.
 
I would think that grease would attract more dirt. Also, wouldn't the grease melt out if you're carrying the gun around in the texas heat all day during the summer?
If i was in the texas heat all day i would adjust my grease mix to suit

I have not had trouble with grease collecting dirt
 
just an fyi during the depth of winter i was basically using straight lard because it was that cold
 
'Grease' will *NOT* prevent chain fires. Grease and wads are used for Fouling Management.
Im pretty sure it does prevent chainfire blacknet but its probably a mute issue if the ball
has a good tight,clean seal.

but you make a good point fouling is the issue and why we must use something
 
Depends on what I am loading for, to keep under my pillow I use wads. Shoot at a range wads are less mess. Just shooting out of the back door grease is cheapest and keeps the cylinder arbor lubed.
 
READ the link I posted, 3 pages worth. You will see what I am talking about.
I just had a quick look at the first page and its wrong I know from personal expierience

grease in blackpowder shuts it up/stops the fire train real quick.

If I have to explain how i know that im going to look all kinds of stupid take my word
or test it for yourself
 
I just had a quick look at the first page and its wrong I know from personal expierience

grease in blackpowder shuts it up/stops the fire train real quick.

If I have to explain how i know that im going to look all kinds of stupid take my word
or test it for yourself

yes explain what you are calling 'grease' also explain how crisco/bees wax/etc will stop the fire train.
 
Bottom line is chain fires are caused from:
1. Loose fiting balls.
2. Improperly sealed chambers.
3. Loose caps.

lubes, wads, patches, etc does *NOT* stop chain fires, they just work on fouling.
 
yes explain what you are calling 'grease' also explain how crisco/bees wax/etc will stop the fire train.
by grease I mean lard,beeswax,tallow probably also crisco although I wont use the stuff
for other reasons.

it seems to melt into the power and shuts down the fire thats the best i can explain it

get some black soak it with lard and see how well it burns

it probably also provides a physical barrier but this is secondary
 
Bottom line is chain fires are caused from:
1. Loose fiting balls.
2. Improperly sealed chambers.
3. Loose caps.

lubes, wads, patches, etc does *NOT* stop chain fires, they just work on fouling.
it will help with loose fitting balls or otherwise poorly sealing chambers
 
it will help with loose fitting balls or otherwise poorly sealing chambers

lubes etc can and will get burned, they offer *NO* heat, fire retardation or even reduction.

If the lube/grease/what not is mixing with the powder then well obviously and clearly you are puting to much pressure on the load
 
lubes etc can and will get burned, they offer *NO* heat, fire retardation or even reduction.

If the lube/grease/what not is mixing with the powder then well obviously and clearly you are puting to much pressure on the load
got nothing to do with pressure im putting on the load Im not telling my newbie mistake

Im not going to go into the chemistry (even if i knew it) of why it works but the grease
will shut down the fire.

so try it and let me know.

bumble bees are not supposed to be able to fly you know
 
got nothing to do with pressure im putting on the load Im not telling my newbie mistake

Im not going to go into the chemistry (even if i knew it) of why it works but the grease
will shut down the fire.

so try it and let me know.

bumble bees are not supposed to be able to fly you know

First bumble bee thing is a gross myth that has been going around for some time, it's simply false.

Second this is what is going on when you fire.
4500 frames per second

So please explain 'shut down the fire' when a) the fire source is outside of the cylinder and b) powder in the rear of the cylinder gets ignited and runs to the front.
 
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