I have lots of questions.....

I didn't really understand the reasoning can anyone explain?

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Obviously, a quality reload is no different from factory ammo, but the manufacturer has no assurance of this quality. So, the disclaimer is a simple way to avoid liability for damage to gun or user.

I can't find different decapping dies.

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Almost all resizing dies perform the decapping step...no need for a separate die.

...are there any advantages to using CCI 5.56 or 7.62 military primers over just large and small rifle primers?

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Even with full-length resizing, there is some danger of slamfires with semi-auto rifles with floating firing pins.

Military-spec primers have either harder cups or are less sensitive and, I believe, are recommended for reloading AR's, M1A's, etc.

It should also be noted that lots of reloaders ignore this recommendation, but that doesn't make the concerns of slamfires invalid.

I can answer one.

"In the loading manual it says not to use reloads in a Glock .40 cal. I didn't really understand the reasoning can anyone explain?"

Sounds like horse crap to me. I reload .40 S&W for my Glock. As a matter of fact it gets a steady diet of reloads. It has had more reloads shot through it than anything else.

FYI
Maybe it's the dreaded "Glock Bulge" they are so concerned with, if so then why do they make a die to remove it?

In fact I am pretty sure most manufacturers say that reloads are not authorized in their guns... covering their rear, I can understand that.

Can you run a .40 case through a .357 Sig die to size it for .357 Sig?

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No, the 40 case is not long enough to allow for the shoulder and still be the proper length.

Will a Lee decapping die deprime all brass?

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If it is the Universal decapping die then YES, except it does not work for 50BMG.

Is there any advantage to using CCI bench rest primers?

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Not for a new reloader

Is there any load for 9mm, .40, .357 Sig, .270 Win, .308/7.62 NATO, .223/5.56 NATO that asks for a magnum primer?

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You might find one or two.

So military primers for my AR weapons. This shouldn't cause a problem firing these rounds in a bolt gun from what I understand, right?

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Right

I'm guessing that just because a .357 Sig is a modified .40 case...

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Well, yes and no. There's not a 357Sig case that's ever been a .40S&W case. As was said above, the .40 cases are two short to be formed into a safe-to-use 357Sig case.

You can, however, size 357Sig in two stages: full size with a .40S&W carbide .die, then neck size with a 357Sig die. This allows you to skip lubing the cases then somehow removing the residual lube. For me, a worthwhile option.

This is from the Hodgdons reloading web site:

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

You will find the 40 SW and un supported Chambers in a lot of reloading manuals an gun manuals. So do not load for a Browning HP in 40 SW either.

It's a liability thing. Millions of Glock 40"s out there and folks reload for them. I am not one of them but do not hold it against anyone. I have 40 SW's just not Glocks. which are fine, just not for me.




"40 S&W: This data is intended for use in firearms with barrels that fully support the cartridge in the chamber. Use of this data in firearms that do not fully support the cartridge may result in bulged cases, ruptured cases, case-head separation or other condition that may result in damage to the firearm and/or result in injury or death of the shooter and/or bystanders."

I need to also get a die for the "Glock bulge"

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Do you really have to? Are Lee dies that much different than Dillon?
I reload for my Glock 23 with a Dillon 550B,and the resizing/decapping die works perfectly fine for taking the "Glock Bulge" out of the case.

I have RCBS dies for the .40 and they would not remove all of the glock buldge. I bought the Redding die and that got me back on track.

I usually keep the .40 brass seperated so I can run it through the redding die. Some slip right through it some take a bit of force. I'll do a couple hundred at a time. Next I toss them into the ready to load bucket.

I go through a lot of .40 S&W in my Glock 23. My Glock doesn't even bulge the brass much. I like my Glock, it has been very dependable and shoots well.

ocymmv

I go through a lot of .40 S&W in my Glock 23. My Glock doesn't even bulge the brass much.

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Is it a Gen 4? I pretty much see (or should I say don't see) the same thing as you do. Very little if any bulge. Where I do see it,is in the "other" once fired that I reload.

When I worked in the gun store I took time to read every mfrs owners manuals. Each and every one had a disclaimer about honoring t he factory warranty should hand loads or reloads be used. Typical "bottom feeder" boilerplate to cover their butts. How the heck are they going to tell what was fired in a gun returned for repair? Know what you are doing, don't rely on bubba advice, use a load manual, don't interpolate data, and be responsible for your own actions and you will be fine. That said, guns that leave much of the case unsupported are not the best candidates for reloads. They are why some die mfrs have push through dies to remove the base bulge. If it bulges, it "can" burst.

HOODLUM said:

Also, are there any advantages to using CCI 5.56 or 7.62 military primers over just large and small rifle primers? Rounds will be fired out of both AR weapons with NATO chambers and bolt rifles with .223 and .308 chambers.

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Most important when seating primers for semi-auto rifles is to have the primer seated properly. The primers should be slightly below flush with the bas of the case.

A high primer is an invitation to a slam fire.

CCI #34 and #41 primers are manufactured to match military specification on sensitivity and other aspects. There is nothing wrong in using them although not necessarily required.

I also use Remington 7-1/2, CCI small rifle primers and Winchester small rifle primers in my AR-15 rifles. I also use CCI large rifle primers and Winchester large rifle primers in my M1 Garands.

Federal rifle primers have a reputation for being more sensitive than other primers and should be avoided in reloads for semi-auto rifles.

I cannot comment on the Russian and other brands of rifle primers. I did recently buy some Magtech small rifle primers to try in my AR-15s.

Hope this helps.

Early 40 cal glocks had issues with the barrel not completly enclosing the case, allowing for the case to bulge at the bottom. (The "glock bulge" you read about). You can resize this to a degree, but it's hard on the cases. So cases tend to wear out over time. Combine those 2, and you have a possible recipe for disaster. Or even bulged cases not resizing all the way down and not chambering (thus the bulge buster kit)

It's hard to write out "some early glocks don't like reloads in 40 cal in your instructions. What's early? do I still have early? How do I tell? IS this safe, should I call lee? So Lee just puts something in there that says "don't use reloads in a glock 40" It's easier.

Attached is a picture I stole off the internet showing 2 glock 23 barrels and a lone wolf barrel with a supported chamber.

HOODLUM said:

Am I correct in assuming that .223 dies will load 5.56 brass and .308 dies will load 7.62 brass?

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Yes. That would be true.

Also, I won't get into it but something else to read about is SB (Small Base) dies in .223 and .308.

Ron

If someone has not addressed this already, It is not recommended to shoot lead through a glock. They have polygonal rifling. Polygonal rifling is shaped like an arc, instead of being squared off at the edges like conventional rifling. Evenso, I know a lot of people who use lead reloads in their glocks but the theory is that it can cause dangerous pressure levels in a glock. Personally, if I was going to use lead in mine, I would find an aftermarket barrel with conventional rifling.