The Beginner's Guide to the Machete

<delete>

JShirley said:

I'm hoping he will expand in the future to include other knives with similar performance, such as the Thai chopper he posted here recently.

Click to expand...

Eventually we will hit the ethnic choppers.

Some of them are just too weird to ignore.

Case in point, some of the big southeast Asian knives have "handed" asymmetrical grinds. Full flat ground on one side, convex or hollow ground on the other. Or hollow/convex. With distal taper. Or reverse distal taper.

Nicely done - thank you very much for this.


I look forward to future installments.

tubeshooter said:

I look forward to future installments.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

I'm always open to suggestions.

If there is a particular 'chete/chopper you would like to see put through its paces or if there is a particular area of usage you would like to see explored let me know.

For scale:


Durn. Slipped up and put a 22" in the picture instead of a 20".

JShirley said:

Is this Panga style one of the heavier machetes out there? It seems a little long for the weight I assume it has.

Click to expand...

It is untapered, and the swell and point toward the tip make if very weight forward (POB is 7.5" or so above the scales on a 20") but the blade stock is 1.5mm thick so even a 22" IMACASA 980 panga it is lighter in the hand than a standard OKC 18"-er.


The 22" OKC is just about the heaviest machete that I can use all day and still be able to brush my teeth that night.

JShirley said:

I know this "sugar cane" two-hander will definitely be for heavier stuff than some others. Looks like it would be a better substitute for a two-handed chopper (and much cheaper) than the Cold Steal Chinese Swords and such.

Click to expand...

Cañero is tough stuff so many professionals prefer a heavily weighted blade to hack through the stalks but the blades aren't any thicker than general usage machete. In fact, a thicker blade would be counter productive, requiring more material to be displaced as the blade moves through the stalk and robbing energy from the cut.

The big IMACASA is still only 1.5mm thick.

The long handle is mostly a way to extend the reach of the blade to prevent the user from having to bend over so far.



I can just about touch the ground with mine if I slouch.



Reach comes with a price of course. The long handled chopper is much more work to swing and fails miserably against hardwoods since the thin (and in my case highly ground) blade wants to wedge and has a terrible power robbing shiver if you make an imperfect cut.

I like to use these as adjuncts to blackberry pickin'. The hook is handy for handing briars without cutting them and the long handle keeps your fingers in an unbepoked state.
Mmmmmm... Blackberry cobbler.

JShirley said:

Based on your suggestions in the article, would you say something like this 18" imacasa would be a good beginning machete for must users?

Click to expand...

That is pretty close to the ideal general purpose machete.

JShirley said:

If the Marble's are made in Central America, I'd guess they were decent?
John

Click to expand...

For the most part they are IMACASAs with upgraded factory edges (read as: They come sharp) and orange paint. They are sort of the midpoint between standard "My machete feeds my family" IMACASA and "Rich Fat American" Condor Tool and Knife/IMACASA.

If you like orange or don't want to spend quality time with a bastard file or belt-grinder before you use your tool they are perfect.

Knife dork joke in the 1st picture.

I figured that I couldn't legitimately say "This knife cuts like a sharpened prybar!" unless I had some first hand experience.

So I sharpened a prybar.

Sharpened prybars don't cut very well.

SO, now I suppose I'm going to have to retire my 18" & 22" green-horn handle WWII Legitimus Collins & Co. Machetes to cut cobbler right??

Nice write-up Sam!

rc

Thanks for the article...

Just re-read this first installment. I have to say, it is very well done.

Very informative, with just a hint of levity. Makes for good reading.



Again - thanks very much! I'll be looking forward to more.

I have a Tramontoria(sp) that I keep sharp and use all the time.
Beyond THAT I am at a total loss for any machete discussion.

JShirley said:

Zeke, how are you sharpening it?

Click to expand...

I clamp a 2 ft. long 2"x3" in a vice. Then with small "c" clamps I attach the blade to the 2x3. Initally, I draw file both sides of the blade followed by a routine with both grits of a round "axe" stone. It works well!

Great article, Sam! I look forward to more. I think my Tramontina bolo is my most useful overall machete. It's light enough to swing fast, heavy enough for some light wood cutting.

The advantage of wood handles is the ease with which the user can re-shape them. I've modified wood handles before, as most machete hilts seem to be made for larger hands than mine. Although plastic can also be carved, wood seems easier.

Perhaps at one point, you could do a "Hall of Shame" list. My first nomination: the abominable Gerber "Parang." Junk with a bad heat treat!

Thanks,
Dirty Bob

Dirty Bob said:

Great article, Sam! I look forward to more. I think my Tramontina bolo is my most useful overall machete. It's light enough to swing fast, heavy enough for some light wood cutting.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

The 14" Tram bolo hits close to the sweet spot for a light duty, packable machete I think, provided a given example is free of gross defect.

Dirty Bob said:

Perhaps at one point, you could do a "Hall of Shame" list. My first nomination: the abominable Gerber "Parang." Junk with a bad heat treat!

Click to expand...

I can't speak as to the quality or consistency of the HT on the Peedrinker Parang, but I think that it is a terribly flawed design.



http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=718754

A "Hall of Shame" is very doable and is one of the more reader beneficial and natural outcomes of doing broad survey type gear reviews.
Also, fun to write, even though I don't think my editor will let me use my most colorful language.

Zeke/PA said:

I have a Tramontoria(sp) that I keep sharp and use all the time.
Beyond THAT I am at a total loss for any machete discussion.

Click to expand...

I got one too and it been used on Construction and yard work since 1985. I got a cheap Academy one the I cut down to it was 14 1/2 inches long and I put it in the car trunk. I got a Cold Steel Bolo on th way from Amazon, next month I am get getting one from MSKW that Sam posted about earlier.

Sam Cade said:

Thanks!

The 14" Tram bolo hits close to the sweet spot for a light duty, packable machete I think, provided a given example is free of gross defect.


I can't speak as to the quality or consistency of the HT on the Peedrinker Parang, but I think that it is a terribly flawed design.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=718754

A "Hall of Shame" is very doable and is one of the more reader beneficial and natural outcomes of doing broad survey type gear reviews.
Also, fun to write, even though I don't think my editor will let me use my most colorful language.

Click to expand...

Thanks Sam for your warning about the Gerber machetes they were on sale at a farm and market store in my area for under 20 bucks. I was going to get one thrill I read your Made in the USA Machete thread.

Great intro article. Since machetes are the only knife I use enough to ever need to regrind I am looking forward to the next installment.

Would it be possible to dive deep into blade shape, length, thickness, and grind geometry vs application?

zhyla said:

Would it be possible to dive deep into blade shape, length, thickness, and grind geometry vs application?

Click to expand...

Absolutely.

The "Why" of knife design is one of the most interesting facets of study.

To wit:



Different tools for different jobs.