Dry fire an 1858 Remington?

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Theoretically, no. In theory the frame is supposed to stop the hammer before it hits the nipple, at just the right distance to crush the cap against it. Nice theory (that actually works in the Ruger Old Army). So, dry firing without the nipples installed, and allowing the frame to stop the hammer should be ok.

But then, we keep hearing about this 'soft' steel that the Italian replicas are supposed to be made of, and one wonders...

Using old nipples is fine, unless you don't have any. A better idea might be to get some plastic air line tubing from a local pet store that sells aquarium supplies, or perhaps something similar from an auto supply store. Cut short lengths to fit over the nipple cone, just long enough to cushion the hammer blow.
 
In theory the hammer stops a couple thou. short of the nipple, but removing them would be best.
Do you plan to dry fire a few times to check trigger pull, timing, etc. or you playing "quick draw"?
 
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Put something between the hammer & frame to cushion the blows.
A strip of leather would be good.

Or ask yourself this question.
How many thousand times can you hit an anvil with a steel ball-peen hammer before a piece chips off the hammer face and sticks in your arm?

Steel on steel impact eventually ends in damage, to one surface or the other.

rc
 
In theory the hammer stops a couple thou. short of the nipple, but removing them would be best.
Do you plan to dry fire a few times to check trigger pull, timing, etc. or you playing "quick draw"?
Not quick draw; just trying to get used to the trigger and hold the sight picture through the squeeze.

Useful practice with my Ruger BH and other CF revolvers.
 
Heck the 1862 Police does that all the time, dry fire that is. A flattened percussion cap behind the hammer works ever time.:evil:
 
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