Recent content by alsask

Pedersoli would be my first choice for a "long rifle flint lock" off the rack. As to the Indian made guns I have never seen one with rifling so they would not even be in the running for me.

The Australians recently banned crossbows. Same as possesing a unlicenced machinegun down there. Retarded.:barf:

We are fortunate today to live in a world where there is a great variety of well made knives at very reasonable prices. I can look back 45 years ago and remember the selection, and price point, of knives. One hours wages for the average tradesman today will buy a much better knife now than then.

Not to many hunters I know would call a 5 7/8" blade too big. If you are backpacking, carring meat saws and hatchets to make up for a deficiency in blade length, it is counterproductive. Sporting goods store want to sell gadgets and if we bought every gadget offered we would need a motorhome...

It was probably scale/mineral deposits that built up over the years inside the pipe, seen similar stuff float up as well. I found old lead pipe to be the softest scrap lead source so far.

Very nice and functional looking.

I was at the fur buyers shop just before Christmas, getting the wife a gift, and they had them on display beside the checkout counter. I must say I was tempted to pick one up, I didn't realize how compact they actually are, but I have blown my knife budget for 2013.

For field dressing big game it is true that you don't need a huge knife. If you are hunting out of a canoe or boat or in very remote areas de-boning a moose or deer makes life a lot simpler and a 5" or 6" knife sure comes in handy. If you wonder what sort of knife is good for processing game...

I take my Lyman flintlock hunting, with a patched round ball, in the regular season. It just seems more fun.

Hollow ground blades are easy to sharpen at home where you have access to large sharpening stones or whatever. Out in the bush it is another story. Tiny little stones like you see on the sheath of a Randall require good lighting and a steady surface to touch up an edge. Scandi grinds can...

My favourite steel for hunting/utility knife follows in order... 1. A2 holds an edge rather well yet is still easy to sharpen. 2. 1095 very tough and easy to sharpen. 3. SK 5 seems almost the same as 1095, perhaps even softer. 4. Buck's regular stainless...420 HC if I am not...

As an alternative to rivets I have started using Chicago screws on knife sheaths and other leather work. Most saddle shops and some hardware stores sell them. The nice thing about them is they are easy to install and remove and you don't require a rivet set. They come in stainless steel and...

There is one blade grind I definately do not like and that is the serrated edge. It is OK for kitchen bread knives. There have been a few knives that have caught my eye from time to time and I passed them up due to serrations.

Lots of conversation about knife grinds of course and I was wondering what people favour and why. Myself I like... 1. Convex grind. Probably the easiest to sharpen and supposedly one of the stronger profiles. 2. Scandi grind. Again another easy to sharpen design although it could be...

Thanks for posting that Sam. I have not seen the longer Mora knives around here yet but I am sure I could order one from Amazon. I have a grandson that would love one for his birthday and maybe a spare for me!