I have removed them by tapping the roll pin with an appropriate sized tap and then running a screw through a socket to make a small puller. Use a tap that doesn't take a lot of material and use some tapping fluid and go easy or you will have a broken tap to deal with.
If you can find the old yellow can Simoniz car wax it works great on both the metal and the wood. It kept the car protected out in the weather for 6 months and lasts forever on guns. I've used it for about 50 years.
Yes I keep a list, Serial numbers for insurance. I also keep a list of where they were bought and if they came through the family who owned them so they will stay in the family, if there is anything that my son should know about each. I include dates of manufacture and any history that I know...
Sorry you had so much trouble. I'e done apex kits on a full size 45 and a 9c, took about 45 minutes on each. I used an aluminum bar wrapped with electricans tape, that fit pretty close to the width of the rear site. If you used a wimpy punch, I could see having a problem. Some sites are stiffer...
Are they telling the bad guys this is where you can find guns to use to kill people you rob? Why not list all the homes where they got 60 inch flatscreens for Christmas or all those who are in wheelchairs. I think they need to rethink what they are trying to accomplish.
I bought mine in 65 while I was in the AF in Dover Del, think I paid $65 new. My Father in Law liked it so much he bought one too. I still have mine, my son has inherted his. They are still beautiful and shoot great.
I use car wax or Johnsons paste wax. You can use it on the wood as well as the metal. Think about it, if it will keep your car protected for a year outside, it will keep your gun protected for a long time. I take the action off and wax inside the stock as well.
I Simoniz mine, use it on both metal and wood. If it will stay on your car for 6 months, think how long it will stay on a gun that is not left out in the weather.
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