Recent content by FROGO207

I definitely would be looking for a used bench press, scales, and dies OP. Hammering that ammo together in any large quantities will become old real quick I bet. The best thing about reloading is always having the ability to make some even when stores are out. That said the Achilles heel is...

The weight, shape, gliding metal type/ thickness of jacketed bullets all make each bullet a unique experience in each firearm you try it in. Finding the best performer is the priceless part. Op down the rabbit hole you go.

The trouble with learning something new is not knowing what problems you don't yet understand might arise. Good catch by the OP. You need to refine your process to include checks and balances that will help you detect problems as you refine your reloading routine. I have been reloading for a...

Silver solder a knurled brass nut to a correct size screw. Just countersink the nut to fit the screw head flush

FWIW I anneal to try and keep neck tension more even across all the brass I might reload regardless of number of times reloaded. Stopping neck splits is just incidental. Now with 30-30 and 22 Hornet it has all but eliminated any neck splits there.

In all my dealings with those guys they have always gone above and beyond. Glad to have them on my side when things go sideways. Great CS from them.

Sawdust mixed with used motor oil is a favorite flux of mine as well.

I have sources of pure lead scrap already I also have a friend that has a couple tons of used wheel weights in a pile. The range scrap, I just melt down everything together in a large dutch oven, skim the crap off the top and use it as is for 38 SPL WC & SWC and other low pressure loads that I...

Well the TAC and 55 grainers have gone together like PB&jelly in all three of my Mini 14's. Most accurate. Also 55-65 grain bullets with TAC in my 1:8.5 Shelin 20 inch barrel are all good and accurate. No loads I tested were less than 1.5 MOA, best were .5 or so. I have alot of TAC to burn up so...

There is a lot of RedDot data for handgun loads in older manuals as well. I have Ideal manuals from the late 40's on up and obsolete calibers are listed within. Also paper manuals work if the power is our and I feel like reloading LOL

The question is can you shoot the difference when using same headstamp brass, same primer, and same charge? Many of us can't actually tell the difference at 100 YDS. I probably could not do it realistically. If you can I applaud you.

I also have an Ohaus 10-10 that is my main scale. I clean it gently once a year and it has maintained it's accuracy since about 1968 when I got it used. If yours is accurate it will probably outlast you.

I also find that the lower node is usually the widest and thus more forgiving when loading the ammo. You can try a higher node but these days cost and availability of primers and propellant is a large part of the equation that I try to keep low at moderate distances.

My origional PPM leaked with fine propellants when new. I immediately got some Mothets Mag Polish and coated the cone surfaces. Spent about 3 hours rotating the drum and reapplying the MMP. After this the measure did not leak and a slight dusting of powdered graphite let me use it virtually leak...

I must live a charmed existance then. I have 8 9MM pistols and never had problems with my reloads as long as they pass the plunk test. All my chambers must be as big as sausages ir something. Oh, I am using a set of Lee carbide dies. Never even tried the FCD tnat was included in 75K+ rounds...