Springfield loaded 1911 alternative

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greyling22

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So my brother has a springfield loaded that has given him problems since day one. Most of the problems have stemmed from his reloads. Now, you can say, "stop right there. there is the problem. Make better reloads or shoot factory"

BUT, making better loads takes time, and we have tried his loads in a variety of other 1911's and in non-1911 45's and they work pretty well. So he's decided the springfield is just picky. Tight tolerances and the like. So he's probably going to trade it away.

Any recommendations on a good 1911 for under a grand that might be a little more forgiving of mediocre ammo? ** MUST BE STAINLESS **

I had a taurus 1911 one time that ate everything I threw at it. I hear very good things about metroarms' guns (though I think they are not stainless). Then there are the usual suspects, the ruger 1911, a colt gold cup (used). Any opinions about the smith E-series 1911? Or the sig 1911's? Other suggestions?
 
I too own a SA Loaded. The only ammo it's particular about is the type of JHP ammo I feed it.

I don't wish to flame a fellow Texan but, from the manual:

"Old or reloaded ammunition may be dangerous. Use
only clean, dry original, high-quality, commercially
manufactured ammunition. Reloaded ammunition will
void the warranty.
"

Just sayin' :)
 
Probably be happier if he sent the barrel out to be reworked to match the reloads they could extended the throat and open up the chamber.
 
bluz, that's standard boilerplate on all guns.

I had considered trying to have the chamber opened up a smidge. But I didn't know how hard and or $$ that might be.
 
"BUT, making better loads takes time"

Sorry, but unless you're omitting a step such as crimping, resizing or, well there are no other steps you could omit and actually have fireable ammo, it takes no longer to make bad reloaded ammo than it does to make acceptable reloaded ammo. If you're not sizing, you're going to have setback and that will be the cause of higher chamber pressures which is almost never good. If you're not crimping, you're always going to have feeding issues, and again this is almost never good. If you (or your "brother") don't want to take the time to load safe ammo, following established procedures, buy factory ammo.

This may be the worst question I've ever seen asked on any forum; "I'm (my brother is) doing something wrong, and maybe dangerous that is causing his (my) gun to not work. I'd like my (brother's) gun to work with this improperly made, likely dangerous ammo so can someone give me some tips. Oh, and don't tell me to make load my ammo with time-tested techniques cause I don't have the time for that."

I got nothing for you other than LOAD YOUR AMMO CORRECTLY so you don't blow your hand up, or worse. And anybody else with any suggestions other than this should be disregarded.
 
I don't think I've ever before seen a post asking for recommendations for a gun to accommodate shoddy reloads.

Perhaps a .45acp revolver would be appropriate, something like a Ruger Blackhawk. Just eliminate all those moving parts and the feeding/extracting/ejecting issues altogether.
 
The alternative is make in-spec ammo, use good mags and enlighten us with both what type of malfunction the Springfield is having and your definition of "good" when running this ammo through other pistols.
 
Springfield

My Springfield loaded Target is over 6 years old,and is over 8,000 rounds now.It's been fed with nothing but my own cast bullets,Lee molds, 200 grain swc and 230 grain round nose.Loads kept to around 775 to 800 fps.Once I started useing the plunk test to get the crimp right,it runs perfect. hdbiker
 
Springfield makes good 1911s. What exactly is it doing? And I believe I would give Springfield a chance to fix it.
 
he's using a 200grn lead bullet, RNFP over 4.6 grns of unique. It's a little light, but not horribly so. Ejects about 5-7 feet. What it's doing is the slide is not going all the way into battery. It's hanging up about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch shy of fully closed. His bullets are seated what appear to be an appropriate depth. OAL is 1.2". when the bullet is chambered, then ejected, no rifling shows on the nose and the bullet has not been driven further into the case. I did not have a chance to pull a bullet and toss a mic on it, but he says they came out of a box labeled 45acp. And he has thousands of them. They came from a dead grandfather on his wife's side of the family. (along with a lot of RCBS dies in various calibers, powder, primers, and a dillion 550) They run through a lee FCD with out too much resistance, and they work fine in 2 other (older colt) 1911's. Thus, while they may not be the greatest reloads ever, I don't think they're just loaded wildly wrong. They do fail the plunk test. They require just a little pressure to seat, and a fingernail with a little pressure to extract. I did not try to plunk them in the other 1911's.

It seems to me like the springer just has a tight chamber that doesn't like a fat lead bullet, and while I think it could be that his loads could be adjusted and possibly made to run, he has kind of lost faith in the gun and would like to try something else.
 
He will likely have a similar problem in any well made modern 1911. Use proper ammo or use an old gun.
9 fingers
 
Try this in the Dillon 550 he inherited. It might help to pass the plunk test.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24483/catid/4/Dillon_Crimp_Dies

Are the bullets also inherited? Could be they have an old sticky lube on them that's leaving a residue in the chamber? I know its something you already may have checked but try thoroughly cleaning the chamber, and a final thought, what recoil spring is in the gun? Try a heavier spring? Its all I've got. Good Luck :)
 
they work fine in 2 other (older colt) 1911's.

Sounds like one of those "minimum match chambers" (Actually undersize, SAAMI spec for NM is the same as standard.)
A sharp in spec chamber reamer will fix that, or the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die will iron the offending rounds out.
 
Has he cleaned the chamber thoroughly? Sometimes the solution is simple.
 
I use a 28ga shotgun brush to clean my 45 chambers. For stubborn deposits I'll use an empty, expanded case and push it into the chamber to scrape the walls and use a squib rod to knock it out.

99% of the rounds through my Springer TRP are 200gr lead reloads.
 
A fairly large percentage of "match grade" barrels have chambers left short to be finish reamed by the smith who fits the barrel. You can rent or buy a finish reamer or find a smith who has one. Usually it only takes a couple of turns with the reamer to cut the chamber just a tiny bit longer.
 
I considered a Loaded for a while, but bought a Colt XSE instead.

I'm glad I did. The reliability of the Colt has been rock-solid with a wide variety of ammo.
 
I had a 1911 once that wouldn't make the last .020" into full lockup.

Eventually I put the barrel in the lathe after measuring showed the chamber was right at minimum length and bored the back face back another .010" deeper.

Problem solved.

If the chamber is on the small diameter side you can also check the diameter of the reloaded ammo all along the bullet length part of the cartridge where the bulge is. All loaded cartridges have a slight bulge in the case where the bullet was seated, measure that whole length. If it's over sized you can resize the case after loading, but my experience has been that it loosens the grip on the bullet. So, then you have to recrimp the mouth of the case.

It's caused me some anguish. It has also caused bullet setback, so I used to cannellure the case just behind the bullet seat area, which of course many manufacturers do as a matter of course.

If however such cartridges did function better after resizing loaded rounds you could resize the bullets .0015" to .001" smaller and forgo all that.
 
Consensus around here back in the '90s, at least regarding M1As, was with Springfield the cheaper the better. People had lots of problems with top of the line M1As, but a base gun, rebuilt by a good smith was always excellent. I wouldn't be surprised if the same held with their M1911s.

I've got a ball gun made from one of their base, blued GI M1911s. It's both reliable and accurate.

Regarding reloads, mike the case mouths to ensure they're in spec. OVER crimping will deform bullets and also cause feed issues.

I ALWAYS use taper crimp dies for .45acp, and seat and crimp as separate operations.

I've used almost NOTHING but 200gr. LSWC handloads, mostly with bullseye. I have no problems, in any of my M1911s.
 
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