Stippling project Glock 22

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matthewpittinger

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I have been working on my stippling and grip mods now for a while. I just finished this one up for a friend.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444607710.692753.jpg
-Full grip reduction, slight flattening of blackstrap and removal of finger grooves.
-Double undercut trigger guard
- Scalloped mag release
-Magwell cutouts
-360 chain link stippling (w/ his initials stippled into grip)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444607588.423595.jpg

What do yall think? Open to constructive criticism
 
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A couple cosmetic things jump out at me, but functionally speaking, taking the stippling all the way up the back strap is a mistake, in my opinion.

Take a gun class with it and you'll quickly find out why.
 
Why the notch in the middle of the trigger guard? I can see the undercut gain but thinning the guard I'm not clear on.

Looks good overall, I keep thinking of having one sent out to be done.
 
The iron wasn't held consistently at the same angle. In fact, it looks a bit "patchy," as one section was held at a different angle than the adjacent section. The problem is, these sections appear in the same grip panel.

Also, the borders are not crisp and clean in various places.

But aside from the superfluous stippling, what jumps out is the edges and ledges of the factory texturing areas, such as the "grip panel" edges. It'd be better to sand/blend those edges flush to the frame. (I made this same oversight on my first stippled glocks)

I also don't care for the factory texture on the initials. I saw a picture of a Glock the had sanded the grip panel glossy, so the initials really popped.
 
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David E said:
The iron wasn't held consistently at the same angle. In fact, it looks a bit "patchy," as one section was held at a different angle than the adjacent section. The problem is, these sections appears in the same grip panel.

Also, the borders are not crisp and clean in various places.

But aside from the superfluous stippling, what jumps out is the edges and ledges of the factory texturing areas, such as the "grip panel" edges. It'd be better to sand/blend those edges flush to the frame. (I made this same oversight on my first stippled glocks)

I also don't care for the factory texture on the initials. I saw a picture of a Glock the had sanded the grip panel glossy, so the initials really popped.
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Thanks for the advice, doing another gun today, we will see how it goes
 
matthewpittinger

There looks like a few spots where the chain link effect gets a little lost but overall it looks to be a fairly good job of stippling.
 
I've been trying to post a picture showing what I meant about the blended edges, but it keeps kicking me off the forum.

How did you do the grip reduction?
 
A couple cosmetic things jump out at me, but functionally speaking, taking the stippling all the way up the back strap is a mistake, in my opinion.

Take a gun class with it and you'll quickly find out why.
Click to expand...
Id be interested in hearing why its a mistake. Ive done it both ways, and much prefer the full stipple.
 
AK103K said:
Id be interested in hearing why its a mistake. Ive done it both ways, and much prefer the full stipple.
Click to expand...

I suppose it depends how rough it is, but I don't want aggressive stippling in any area where my hand is moving around it to get the grip. The web of the hand is a tender area for most people and the discomfort of aggressive texture there makes itself apparent pretty fast.
 
I prefer the finer, "cat tongue" type stippling.

I suppose to, it depends on how rough your hands are. I work in construction, and mine are pretty rough. The stippling makes a major difference in locking the gun in.

I dont mind a little "exfoliation". :)
 
A couple cosmetic things jump out at me, but functionally speaking, taking the stippling all the way up the back strap is a mistake, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

Unless you are wearing gloves, that stippling on the top of the backstrap/beavertail is going to get irritating very quickly.

It may also interfere with your draw.
 
Unless you are wearing gloves, that stippling on the top of the backstrap/beavertail is going to get irritating very quickly.

It may also interfere with your draw.
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I havent found either to be the case, but again, my hands are pretty rough, and need the extra grippiness stippling provides.

If the gun is moving in your hands once your grip is acquired, then something isnt right.

I havent found the stippling to be an issue in any part of the draw either.
 
As far as the texture "locking in" the grip, that's not necessarily a good thing.

Revolver Ace Jerry Miculek requires a smooth grip to allow adjusting his grasp if needed.

If you miss it, you're "locked in" incorrectly. If you need to move your hand to activate the mag release, etc, it's more difficult to get out of and back into the "locked in" grip.

I acknowledge these concerns really are only valid when going fast.
 
I really havent found it to be a problem, fast, slow, mag change, what ever. While your grip is locked in when you are applying grip to the gun (more so than anything else Ive used), its not a final resting place if you relax that grip. There is adjustment if you need it, or at least I find that to be. Its not as slippery as the unstippled guns, but its not like you had crazy glue in your palm.
 
When I say "fast," I'm talking about drawing, firing six on target, reload, fire six more on target in 6-8 seconds max.

Hand size is a factor, as well. If you're able to hit the mag release without shifting your grip, then it's one less shift to do. But if you do need to shift the gun slightly to reach the release, then move it back again, smoother texture at the top of the tang will likely help.

There are many variables, donuts a good idea to find what works best for you.
 
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