Model 10 question

Tallball,

Got to love them mushroom headed ejector rods!

Nice pistol.....or should I say Fife-o-matic?

-kBob

Thanks y'all. I like it a lot too. They built those things to last! It has been shot so much that the rifling is visibly worn, but it still locks up pretty tight and has good accuracy. I got it from a place that sells old police evidence and things like that. I bet it has some stories to tell.

kBob, When I got this revolver it had been neglected for years but, it appeared to have been seldom fired. I was able to pick it up for cheap and decided it was worth saving.
This is what it looked like when I brought it home....
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I gave it a good bath with oil and a light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool which removed most of the scale rust. The remaining rust was removed by spot applications of rust/blue remover. The frame and cylinder revealed much of the original blue but the barrel blue showed a lot of wear. I purchased Oxpho-Blue from Cabela's and applied it to the barrel countless times. Oxpho-Blue can be applied over existing blue so I refreshed the remaining factory blue on the frame and cylinder to cover the bad spots. It worked pretty well. The cold blue doesn't exactly match the S&W blue but it looks better than bare or rusted metal. Oxpho-Blue is a Brownell's product that they sell in large bottles for the volume user. Cabela's offers it in small sizes for the small users. The gun looks good in the photos however, in the auto industry it would be called a 10 footer. It in no way will rival a professionally applied blue job.
Using car wax is a bad idea because most contain a polishing compound. The guys on the S&W forums recommend Renaissance or Johnson & Johnson paste wax. They are pure wax and will leave a good shine as well as offer some protection.

This may be a silly question, but are these heavy barreled 10's +P rated? I'm assuming so.....

Yes, they can fire +P without any problem.

jdavis123- we need an after picture!

Thanks! Appreciate that!

Rob1035, See post #17

duh, woops!

Slow Fuze: I would suggest taking your Model 10 down for a good cleaning. Take the side plate off and remove all of the internal parts. Spray them down with Gun Scrubber or carb. Cleaner. Also soak the area where the parts go several times. You are removing any old oil or grease. Re lube and reassemble it. You should be able to tell a difference.

Or you could give it the "Fuff Treatment"...


The internals may be gunked up with dry grease. Remove the stocks carefully and soak the rest in a meatloaf pan fill with enough Marvel Mystery Oil (available at automobile supply and part stores) to cover it. After a day or so remove the gun and return the remaining oil to the original container. Drain most of the oil and use an air hose to blow out what's left inside the gun. Use patches to dry the chambers and bore. The rest of the exterior can be wiped with paper towels. Dispose them as they can be a fire hazard. Further disassembly in not necessary and doing so can degrade the classic fitting of the side plate and other parts.

To the OP; try Southern Ohio Guns. Usually have Model 10's or Model 64's (the stainless version) available; $290 or $330. I bought a 64 from them...-8 version, like new.