Lube Handgun Cases

Powder got bumped out of the powder horn of my Dillion 550B before I started lubing my pistol cases. I use a carbide die, just like 99.999% of reloaders, and for whatever reason, getting that case started without lube was took enough of a shove that I had an uncontrollable upstroke.

I lube the cases with RCBS water soluble case lube and now sizing effort is almost effortless! I also shoot the cases with the lube left on them, improves function in my opinion. By breaking the friction between case and chamber I am improving extraction reliability. As long as I don't drop the cases in the dirt there is absolutely no problem what so ever.

As most others here, I lube a couple hundred pistol cases at a time with One Shot and a gallon freezer bag. I'd don't remove the lube, it works great.
str1

Rifle case lubrication requires more attention than pistol cases. If you use a spray lube be sure to make sure you have good coverage, and allow sufficient time for the cases to dry. I prefer "Imperial Sizing Lube" for rifle cases but it's not practical to load progressively using that process.
str1

I just keep a tiny bit of Imperial on my fingertips as I feed the cases.

Sizing with carbide dies: easy.
Sizing with carbide dies and lube: easier.

I've found that a quick squirt of RemOil (spray can) works for a baggie full of 9mm too. It certainly works better for that than it does as a lube on the guns. Imperial wax for bottleneck cases.

Don't think I'd use RemOil as a case lube. A dry lube in an alcohol carrier such as OneShot would be a safer bet. Oil of any kind is not something I'd want in my case prep, but if it works for you---------.
str1

I was about to start a thread on this subject the other day, glad I waited.

Since reloading on a progressive I've noticed the effort in reloading has taken it's toll on my shoulder. I was loading zero HBWC the other day and had a bunch of the sticky lube on my fingers. I rubbed it on the case and it made a huge difference.

I dug around and found a bootleg of case lube that a user here, Glock20, had sent me several years ago. I tested it on some cases back then for him. I put 100 38 cases in a bag and put two pumps of the case lube in the bag. After running them around for ten or twelve seconds I dumped them out and let them sit for three minutes.

The cases were not sticky, tacky, or anything. Looking at them you would never know they were lubed. The glided through the sizing die like there wasn't even a case there. I did not clean off the lube because you can't even tell it's there.

What is this wonder lube you may ask? It's lanolin and alcohol. Old fashioned and works like a charm. I will never load any pistol round without it.

I could be wrong in doing this, but rather than lubing my pistol cases, if I feel the stroke getting a little harder to do while sizing, I take my can of OneShot, shoot a little up into the sizing die, wait a minute, then go back to sizing. Its worked well for me. I also keep my press lubed well for smooth handling. Havent any problems yet.

ZWCoffindaffer said:

I could be wrong in doing this, but rather than lubing my pistol cases, if I feel the stroke getting a little harder to do while sizing, I take my can of OneShot, shoot a little up into the sizing die, wait a minute, then go back to sizing. Its worked well for me. I also keep my press lubed well for smooth handling. Havent any problems yet.

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I will lube my press every time I sit down to reload(only the first time that day though). The ram and linkage, and in the case of my Lee Turret and Pro1k the action rod. On the turret I lube it also.

I believe I'm older and apparently in better physical condition then most of the respondents thus with carbide dies I do not employ lubrication. How much do I reload in a session a 30-Cal-Ammo Can up to the top with 45ACP or 9mm-Luger using a Dillon SDB reloading press.

I lube cases out of consideration for the press. I don't want to put undue wear on my 650. It's quite possible I might break or bend something with my mighty pythons without the case lube.
str1

shooter1 said:

I lube cases out of consideration for the press. I don't want to put undue wear on my 650. It's quite possible I might break or bend something with my mighty pythons without the case lube.
str1

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Being I use a "cheapo, junk, crappy, garbage" press I think lubing the cases saves not only my shoulder but the press also.

Yes lube. them. Much easier on you.

I started reloading long ago with a Rock Chucker and carbide dies. No lube necessary, I was told. Got a Dillon 450 and still no lube for pistol brass. I load .44 and .45 Colt a lot and no trouble. I can't see how it could be that much easier and worthwhile to add a lube step. Many of my die sets are RCBS from forty years ago. Running like a top.

It's not that it's hard or a lot of trouble. With a progressive running five operations at a time, you get a lot better "feel" for what's going on when you don't have unnecessary drag. The lube really helps there. Not so much on a single stage. Hard to describe the difference in feel.
str1

I guess I'll at least give it a try with some "One Shot". Easy stuff to use. Keep an open mind.

25-5 said:

I started reloading long ago with a Rock Chucker and carbide dies. No lube necessary, I was told. Got a Dillon 450 and still no lube for pistol brass. I load .44 and .45 Colt a lot and no trouble. I can't see how it could be that much easier and worthwhile to add a lube step. Many of my die sets are RCBS from forty years ago. Running like a top.

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It's not really an extra step per se. Using ine shot or something like it you don't have to clean the cases afterwards. Heck, I'm using lanolin and alcohol and don't clean the cases afterwards.

It's so much better feel all around and easier on the shoulder to boot.

Heck, you aren't out anything if you don't like it.

I know it helps with rifle cartridges, but i'm going to try it and compare w/ my 9mm resizing. Some with, some without.

I looked at the Dillon Case Lube ($9'ish)- and the ingredients are Alcohol and Lanolin. I saw the "DIY Case lube" on youtube and figure it was worth a shot. Some lanolin was the expensive "investment" but should last for a LONG time (about $12-15 for 12oz bottle). And anyone who wants to make the same - it's a stupid simple ratio. Mix one oz of lanolin into a sprayer, and add 12oz of the *red* ISOheet fuel injector cleaner (99% alcohol). Voila! 12:1 ratio - some folks have tried more Lanolin (8-12:1), but i'll start there first.

My only hesitation is to clean/tumble after loading or just shoot them lubed?

I'm new, so don't hesitate to correct me if i'm waaay off base! Just got my press setup and starting on reloading. Tons of dumb questions to ensue...

I'm using lanolin and alcohol and I don't tumble after lubing.

When doing pistol you really don't need as much lube. I put a 100 or so cases in a Ziploc freezer bag and put two spats on lube into it and then run them all around for fifteen seconds or so. Then dump then out and let them sit a few minutes.

No sticky or anything and after loading they look just like any other case.

I get the humor and comment. Not offended at all. I'm perfectly capable to size most anything without lube... however, i was looking to smooth the motion and possibly increase speed as a result(smooth matters on my progressive).

It's all good and as a computer guy i understand the stereotype - even if it doesn't apply to me. (6'8" 270lbs)

357Sig, 7.62 x25, 9x25 naturally require lube. I now lube 10mm as stated probably out of my own fear. But a little lube and carbide dies sure make for smooth forming. I am looking at lube removal methods. Using wet methods at this point in my process are a pain. Maybe I will buy a dry tumbler!

OilyPablo said:

357Sig, 7.62 x25, 9x25 naturally require lube. I now lube 10mm as stated probably out of my own fear. But a little lube and carbide dies sure make for smooth forming. I am looking at lube removal methods. Using wet methods at this point in my process are a pain. Maybe I will buy a dry tumbler!

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Lube your handgun cases with OneShot. You do not need to to remove it as it will not ruin powder or primers once dried on the case. There are ton of guys on this forum and elsewhere that do this. If you use a lanolin based product you do have to tumble it off, either wet or dry, but you have to do it. I feel lanolin based is better served on rifle cases myself.

What is OneShots base oil? Does coconut oil require cleaning?