S&W model of 1988 and 1989

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DC Plumber

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Hey folks,

I am potentially looking for one of these models for local gun matches. I want one of these because they are prelock and utilize moon clips. I shoot a fair amount through my 1911 and want to stay with a 45 acp revolver.

Does anyone have experience with either of these? I have a 696 no dash that I am considering selling to fund this purchase which is another reason I want a pre lock gun, one out, one back in.

Any feed back is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Ditto. Great gun. 625-6, 5". I use RIMZ EZ Moon clips. They're plastic, easy to load & unload, and hold the cartridges well. I don't shoot competition, but they work well for me at the range. The revolver itself is an excellent shooter.
 
I have a Model of 1988 which is the most accurate S&W revolver I have ever fired. In a machine rest it will put an entire clip into one hole at 18 yards. The barrels S&W made for those guns are incredible. Most reviewers of the Model of 1988 said the same thing - John Taffin did a nice review of the first model and it got my attention. Be aware that the Models of 1988 used the short lived floating hand which may or may not cause problems if it is still installed. The first production Models also had undersized chambers and usually need to be finish reamed. Before I reamed mine you could only fire about 4 moon clips and then the fouling would make it very difficult to insert another clip into the cylinder. When shooting a match this can be a problem if you are not able to run a brush through the chambers every other stage. Overall the Model of 1988 is a very fine example of S&W quality. On the Model of 1989 they dropped the floating hand and fixed the tight chamber problem and switched from metal stamped to laser etched markings. Mine is still more accurate than most people can hold it. You must not be a handloader if you own a 696 no dash and are willing to part with it. I have one also and it's never going to be sold. It has been my every day carry gun since 1996 and I much prefer the .44 Spl. cartridge and the L frame fits my hand a little better than an N frame.
 
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Well what I'm looking for is the kind of info Drail shared. I've heard of the 1989 but not a 1988 until recently. The chamber issue is something g I'm glad I know of.

I've been handloading since 1997 and picked up my 696 in 1998 and have shot quite a few cast bullets through it. It is a gem of a revolver but I actually shoot my 3" Lew Horton model 24 more. I really like the L frame too, my 586 no dash is another gem. Just thinking that shooting my 200g LSWC for my 1911 would make sense for a guy with limited time to shoot, not to mention making ammo.

But true, 696 no dash revolvers are far and few between. Maybe I'll just pick up a new 625JM as they are plentiful and cheaper than a per lock 1989.
 
I picked up a 625JM. It had a very heavy and gritty trigger croon the factory, probably why I got such a good deal on it in hindsight...

After swapping a new non-serrated trigger and having an action job done, it's been great. One hole groups with any decent factory ammo and it thrives on my hand loads of 200gr swc's over reddot. The JM's also have the quick change front sight which I consider a huge plus (all my N frames have the quick change front sight)

I've had no issues with leading and mine works perfectly fine without moon clips. Emptys just fall out provided I've bothered to clean my brass
 
The tight chambers I mentioned didn't seem to happen on every gun made, nut a lot of them were tight. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the Model 1988 would not fire without moon clips. I have heard some will - but I have never seen one. Mine will not fire with rounds not loaded into clips. Maybe 1 or 2 out of six would fore on a good day. This problem was reported to have been solved with the intro of the Model of 1989. The 625-2 is my favorite N frame S&W. Would like to have one in a 3 or 4 inch.
 
The tight chambers I mentioned didn't seem to happen on every gun made, but a lot of them were too tight to run without hanging up. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the Model 1988 for the most part will not fire without moon clips. I have heard some will - but I have never seen one. Mine will not fire with rounds not loaded into clips. Maybe 1 out of six would fire on a good day. This problem was reported to have been solved with the intro of the Model of 1989. The 625-2 is my favorite N frame S&W. Would like to have one in a 3 or 4 inch. Ranch Products makes the best clips for the price.
 
Just Google S&W 625-2 Model of 1988. There's tons of pictures on the web. The first time I saw Jerry Miculek shoot one in 1989 I was hooked. You can stand next to him and watch him do that incredible reload and your brain still cannot believe what you just saw. And he just looks at you and smiles.......he's the nicest old guy you will ever meet. He actually gave me some pointers on his reload.
 
Howdy

I don't suppose you would consider the original revolver that was chambered for 45 ACP, the Smith and Wesson Model 1917. Smith knew the government was not going to be able to produce enough 1911s when WWI was imminent, so they approached the govt about buying revolvers chambered for 45 ACP. That's why the half moon clip was invented, for this model.

In this photo, the one at the top was made in 1918, the one at the bottom was for the Brazilian contract of 1937. There are lots of Brazilian contract models around on the used market.

1917soriginalandbrazillian02_zps073c10e7.jpg
 
Ask and ye shall receive...
Z6qGDe0l.jpg

Sporting Arhends round butt combats and an atypical red ramp front sight, although it usually wears a gold bead which happened to be residing on a 627 Pro when the picture was taken. Remember when I said I like the quick change front sight?
 
Howdy

I don't suppose you would consider the original revolver that was chambered for 45 ACP, the Smith and Wesson Model 1917. Smith knew the government was not going to be able to produce enough 1911s when WWI was imminent, so they approached the govt about buying revolvers chambered for 45 ACP. That's why the half moon clip was invented, for this model.

In this photo, the one at the top was made in 1918, the one at the bottom was for the Brazilian contract of 1937. There are lots of Brazilian contract models around on the used market.

1917soriginalandbrazillian02_zps073c10e7.jpg
I used to have an M1917 when I was in the Army.

Like most guns, I wish I'd never traded it, although it's possible that I traded it for my 4" Model 29.
 
I bought a 625-2 when they came out in 1988. I stupidly traded it off a few years later. There was no problem with tight chambers and it was the most accurate revolver I ever fired when using 200 gr LSWC and a "softball " level load I worked up. Accuracy with JRN hardball was just ok. My example definitely liked lead bullets over jacketed...I traded for a four inch 625-3 a couple years ago and was happy to have another 625-2/3. It has a super smooth action and I don't know if it had some action attention by the previous owner or came from Springfield like that. I have not spent much time in load development yet but it seems to shoot jacketed bullets better than the 625-2 did...I don't compete with it but I would if given the chance. Im getting old and arthritic so not having to pick up brass makes a range session much more pleasant than when shooting my .45 autos and it is easier on my precious brass. I also like using .45 Auto Rim ammo that I load. It negates using the clips although the RIMZ clips a far easier to use for range shooting than metal clips...no tools needed and no wear and tear on the fingers...I traded a 686 for it and don't regret it. Smith N Frames are my favorites and the 625s in .45 ACP or Colt are wonderful. They are particularly good for a handloader to enjoy. My 625-3 and 625-9 .45 Colt Mountain Gun are two that will be staying for good.
 
I have the 1989 model without the lock (I'd NEVER buy any gun with an integral lock). It's incredibly accurate & I load 45 AR for it. One pleasant surprise: Regardless of how many cast lead rounds I put through it, the barrel is always very clean & never any leading.
 
That's funny...I have J,K, N and X frames and have had various L's including a 296 and 396 as well as snubs to six inch 586/686's and never seem to keep them...But, N frames with a bore size that starts with a four and ends with a five are right up my street!...I would gladly take another 1988 five inch.
 
All 625s are great shooters, and they're very much in demand, especially pre-locks. These are both 625-3 "Model Of 1989" (someone wanted the 4" bad enough and I foolishly let it go...the 3" is a keeper).

PtjamcAA.jpg
 
They are easy to shoot well. My little girl, first time ever shooting my Model of 1988.

Is it okay that she outshoots me, since I taught her to shoot?

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For "local gun matches" and not for carrying concealed reasons, I'd look for a Model 1955 Target (25-2). A fabulously accurate, well-made and finely finished revolver having a superb sa trigger pull.
 
I have the 1989 version which I bought when it first came out. I sold my model 25 to buy the stainless version. From day one, the accuracy and trigger have been excellent. It's one of my favorite revolvers to shoot.
 
Ouch...bad idea getting rid of that 696 no dash... VERY BAD IDEA.

I have the 696 no dash and it is one of my favorites...it will only go up in price. Remember once it is gone, it will be very difficult to find another at anywhere near what you paid for yours.

As to the 625 Model of 1989...one of my friends had one a few years back and we shot it a lot...excellent revolver and highly recommended. Also, VERY accurate.
 
My 625. It's a Lew Horton special edition and it shoots really sweetly. Still trying to find its favorite load, but it will easily shoot with my 5" 1911 and maybe even better.
 

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