Accuracy of Ruger Blackhawk convertible in 45 acp?

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I'm still working out loads for my 45ACP/45Colt convertible, but after reaming the throats in the cylinders (both were undersized in the 449-450 range) it groups as well, or better than I can shoot it. I had some success busting shotgun clays on the 50 yard berm with it launching standard 250gn hardball from the 45ACP cylinder.
 
reload data

Do you plan on posting your data, especially if you Hava chronograph info. Interested minds would like to know.
I'm looking for data, chronograph info for the 4 3/4" and the 5 1/2" barrel configurations. I'm sure the difference between the two is minimal and probably not worth noting but if it's 100 fps I'd like to know.
 
I have to say, this is a great thread .. I am learning lots .. Reason I have a Ruger .45colt/.45acp is that I can shoot my same reloads in both revolver and auto loader.. Less reloading, more shooting.
 
I keep reading about NMBH not being as strong, when it comes to reloading hotter loads, as the older 3 screws. My question is, do the stainless steel suffer from the same issue due to blue version of this hand gun being made of a newer alloy? Can anyone attest to the CUP pressure difference between blue and stainless steel models. Or, does anyone know of a ruger factory tech address I can ask ruger about this question.
I'm not sure how to post this to the main part of this thread. I mar be replying to a poster and not necessarily the main thread. If this is what I'm doing please repost to the thread main part. You may post my e mail to let me know. Hope I stated my question plain enough. [email protected].
 
These are fantastic replies. If I can read between the lines and make an educated assumption based on comments above, I would warrant that the older Rugers/Blackhaks were better made and more accurate than the current versions.

I reason this because several folks who I believe, say their Blackhawks were the most accurate guns they ever owned and other folks who I also believe say the factory gun needs some work. Those comments about the throat (and I know very little about revolvers) I have read directed at the S&W 45 acp's as well.

As to why 45acp vs 45lc, I handload and will still load for my 1911's and I am merely looking to take a shortcut if harmless. OTH if the 45lc is more accurate then I would take the bother to load them (I think :))

I'm wondering about the difference between Rugers in S&W frame size. I shot a gents 45 colt revolver and found the grip and reach small/short, which is good because I have small hands. He said the Blackhawk was a similar gun just better.

Can anyone verify that remark? Thanks
From what I've gathered both old and new are super accurate, new models have had issues with narrow cylinders that need repair but I believe they've worked that out and shouldn't be a worry on new guns but possible with used guns, my take.
Accuracy should be fine with both cylinders and rounds.
One thing I was curious about was NMBH being on a smaller frame are not as robust in reference to reloading hot loads. But noone has commented on the strength of stainless guns in comparison to blue alloy frame models . My question is, is CUP more, less or the same with stainless guns, thus being able to handle Ruger only hot loads. This info will help me decide between blue and stainless models. My e mail is [email protected] if someone has specific. info they would like to share, along with load data. If I can cleanly kill hogs and it's accurate I'm good to go wilt LC cylinder. ACP wi) be for cheep plinking and defense.
 
new models have had issues with narrow cylinders that need repair but I believe they've worked that out and shouldn't be a worry on new guns but possible with used guns,

I'm not sure the tight throats are an issue especially if using jacketed ammo(at least it's not been for me), just swapping out the springs and going to a one piece Hogue grip made a big difference in my accuracy with both .45acp(mild) and .45C BB (thumper loads).
 
Hey guys, tanks for the additional info. No one has mentioned gas check bullets for hot loaded LC reloading. Would that be a different thread totally? Anyone using gas checks in .45 LC? Any benifits in accuracy?

Yes, it is a different subject, better suited for the Reloading forum, but my expectation of gas checks is that they will prevent a bullet from melting, allowing gases to leak around it. I would guess that any effect on accuracy would be quite indirect.
 
Mine is 7.5" and my most accurate centerfire handgun out of many. I usually use 45acp because it's so much cheaper. If I went back to 45colt I am assuming I would have to readjust the sights a little. I started out shooting 45colt for a few sessions and have been shooting 45acp ever since. IIRC the sights needed a little adjustment after I switched.

If there is a difference in accuracy between 45colt and 45acp I am not a good enough shooter to notice. It is one of the few handguns I can shoot decently out to 25 yards (on a good day).
 
I keep reading about NMBH not being as strong, when it comes to reloading hotter loads, as the older 3 screws. My question is, do the stainless steel suffer from the same issue due to blue version of this hand gun being made of a newer alloy? Can anyone attest to the CUP pressure difference between blue and stainless steel models. Or, does anyone know of a ruger factory tech address I can ask ruger about this question.
The term "new model" is used for two different modifications to the Blackhawk.

The first -- and unofficial -- use of the term referred to a modification of the lockwork that allowed you to carry all six chambers loaded. There is no difference between guns with the new lockwork and the originals -- in fact, if you have an original, you can send it to Ruger and they will upgrade the lockwork for you.

The second -- and official -- use of the term refers to a smaller frame -- the same size frame as the Colt SAA. These guns, being smaller than the "old model" are not as strong as the older model (which is still being made) but nevertheless are a lot stronger than the Colt SAA.

If you have a true New Model, do not use full-charge "Ruger Only" loads in it. If you HAVE to load it hot, stick with the suggested starting loads in the "Ruger Only" section of your reloading manual, and start BELOW that level and work up.
 
I've got to get a free weekend with non-stormy weather, but if I get a chance I'll put up info.
Personal experience on the other issues as well please. Tanks.
I keep reading about NMBH not being as strong, when it comes to reloading hotter loads, as the older 3 screws. My question is, do the stainless steel suffer from the same issue due to blue version of this hand gun being made of a newer alloy? Can anyone attest to the CUP pressure difference between blue and stainless steel models. Or, does anyone know of a ruger factory tech address I can ask ruger about this question.
I'm not sure how to post this to the main part of this thread. I mar be replying to a poster and not necessarily the main thread. If this is what I'm doing please repost to the thread main part. You may post my e mail to let me know. Hope I stated my question plain enough. [email protected].

Sounds good, thanks.
 
The term "new model" is used for two different modifications to the Blackhawk.



The first -- and unofficial -- use of the term referred to a modification of the lockwork that allowed you to carry all six chambers loaded. There is no difference between guns with the new lockwork and the originals -- in fact, if you have an original, you can send it to Ruger and they will upgrade the lockwork for you.



The second -- and official -- use of the term refers to a smaller frame -- the same size frame as the Colt SAA. These guns, being smaller than the "old model" are not as strong as the older model (which is still being made) but nevertheless are a lot stronger than the Colt SAA.



If you have a true New Model, do not use full-charge "Ruger Only" loads in it. If you HAVE to load it hot, stick with the suggested starting loads in the "Ruger Only" section of your reloading manual, and start BELOW that level and work up.


The new model vaquero is in fact similar to the colt SAA and shouldn't be fired with Ruger only loads but the new model Blackhawk wasn't scaled down in that way. At least I know mine wasn't.
 
The new model vaquero is in fact similar to the colt SAA and shouldn't be fired with Ruger only loads

Not full bore "Ruger only", but the 45 convertibles have demonstrated that the NMBH 45 Colt can shoot pressure levels comparable to 45 ACP, what have been referred to as Tier 2, Tier II, Level 2, whatever suits your sense of terminology. My New Vaquero shoots them well.
 
The new model vaquero is in fact similar to the colt SAA and shouldn't be fired with Ruger only loads but the new model Blackhawk wasn't scaled down in that way. At least I know mine wasn't.

That's my point -- "New Model" can mean the OLD Blackhawk frame with updated lockwork, or the New Model Vaquero. Those are two different pistols.
 
Hey guys, bought a Hornady reloading book but it mostly covers jacketed boolits, and I need a reloading manual that covers cast and ruger only loads reloading manual, any suggestions? My brand new Hornady is up for grabs, paid 29.00 for it, someone give me 25.00 I'll kick in da shipping.
 
Generally speaking, gas checks always help, but as Mike Venturino says, they don't help enough in most handguns to be worth the effort. I have a mould that throws a Keith-type bullet, and I had it modified to produce a hollow base bullet. That more than anything else seems to produce fine accuracy in the .45 Colt.
I herd they help with barrel ledding, is that what you're referring too?
 
I herd they help with barrel ledding, is that what you're referring too?
At typical .45 velocities -- up to Ruger Only loads -- gas checks aren't needed. A properly fitting bullet, with proper hardness and good lube is all you need. And in general, if you have leading in a .45 Colt, it usually means the bullet isn't upsetting and filling the grooves, and gas is escaping past the bullet. Try a SOFTER bullet.

The hollow base bullet expands better than a plain base -- gas pressure in the hollow base expands the "skirts." A hollow base bullet is more forgiving of mis-matched dimensions in a revolver.
 
That's my point -- "New Model" can mean the OLD Blackhawk frame with updated lockwork, or the New Model Vaquero. Those are two different pistols.
To further confuse things Ruger just released a "New Vaquero" in 44 magnum stamped "New Vaquero" using the old vaquero larger frame. I just took delivery of one.
 
The key thing to look for is the New Model Blackhawks that have the top strap "ears" above the recoil shield which helps to protect the rear sight - this is different from the original Blackhawk "flat top" models. The new model Vaquero and the recent "new" flattops based on the smaller frames do have lower pressure limitations than these larger framed revolvers. The larger frame guns with the "ears" / elevated area around the rear sight were developed to more easily handle 44 Mag power levels, and they are also often the basis for 5 shot customs in 454 Casull, 480 Ruger, etc.
 
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