Locking dies into progressive

Paddy said:

Locking dies into progressive ... when we find an adjustment with Redding or rcbs dies that have a simple lock ring with set screw, what keeps the dies from loosening in the press?

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Friction between die threads against bushing/tool head and lock ring threads similar to using two nuts on a bolt.

Set screw maintains lock ring adjustment on the die threads.

My progressive press seems to want to loosen them and I don't want to put pliers on them of course.

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Why not?

I keep box end wrenches along with crescent wrenches hanging on my bench for die/depriming pin adjustments.

While I keep pliers on the bench, box end/crescent wrenches would do less marring/damage to die/lock nut surfaces.

This is why I bought Hornady split rings for all the die sets I use with the LNL bushings. When you do the final tightening on the split ring cap screw the dies are absolutely locked to the bushings.

All my set screw style lock rings got moved to dies I use on the Co-Ax.

My progressive press seems to want to loosen them and I don't want to put pliers on them of course.

Click to expand...

Pliers? I torque them down with a large wrench and have no reservation doing so. Then I tighten the set screw. Don't be bashful with tightening down or locking down a die.

Ron

Paddy said:

My progressive press seems to want to loosen them and I don't want to put pliers on them of course.

Click to expand...

I do not like using pliers on dies. The manufacturers could put flats on the items that need tightening so that wrenches can be used.

Some dies have flats some don't. It seems that the manufacturers are trending to putting flats on dies.

I snug the lock ring to the L-N-L bushing then tighten the set screw. Tightening the set screw really seams to lock the hushing in place. Unlike my single stage press, I do not intend to ever remove the die from the bushing under normal operation.

Some set screws have a brass tip on them that protect the threads. Some folks drop an appropriate sized piece of lead shot under the set screw to protect the threads.

I prefer split ring lock rings and have purchased lots of Hornady split lock rings. Besides being split rings, they have flats cut into them for a wrench. Win-win.

On my powder cop die and powder drop dies that get adjusted frequently, I use a non locking lock ring like the Lee o-ring nut or now the Dillon lock nut. The Dillon lock nut is small and has more room between dies to get a Dillon wrench on the nut.

I dislike the Dillon rings - but I use a LNL with bushings. I don't think the Dillon rings work well with the bushings. They are fine, of course, once you get your dies dialed in and can lock them down. During setup though they are a pain because often times the bushing turns before the ring turns making fine tuning more troublesome.

I bit the bullet, so to speak, and replaced them, because I do like the Dillon dies.

I lock them down with a jam nut when I get them where I want and put a witness mark down the die, nut and onto the tool head so any movement will catch my eye at a glance.

One of my LNL's would self quick detach some of its dies, I just used a thicker O ring to keep them in place.

I keep a pair of these next to my reloading press.
Doesn't scratch or mar the die lock rings in the slightest.

Because they fit, and don't slip.




rc

When necessary, I use pliers like those above except that I use a strip of leather between the jaws and the ring.

McMaster Carr Supply Soft-Jaw Adjustable Pliers. For years I also called similar pliers "cannon plug pliers" because we used them on cannon plug connectors. May even have a pair around here somewhere. Wear out an insert, just replace it.

Ron

I have had no problems with the lock nuts coming loose on my 2 Dillon 650 presses. Once I have the dies set up,with a case in each and ram raised I tighten down the lock nuts. Once set they never move.

I have never had any issues with dies loosening in my Dillon 650 heads either. Many years ago I bought a bunch of split ring nuts and have them on most all my dies.

why not one of the rubber strap wrench's, that's what I use.


Like this:http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html

There's only one place that is true and proper for the lock nuts or lock rings that use set screws. And that's commonly called "file 13". Otherwise known as the trash bucket.

The issue being that tightening the set screw down not only risks or will damage the threading on the die but it pulls the ring to one side. And that loosens the thread around the set screw so it can move sideways depending on where the set screw is bearing on the thread crest of the die. SO the ring ends up cockeyed to the die. And the more slop in the thread fit the more cockeyed it can become.

It's just truly a bad design.

Actually you can still use them. Just remove the set screws and use two per die where you lock one ring against the other. That'll force the threads to center and square the rings to the die.

I've used RCBS dies since I started loading in 1974. The lock ring is not the best design and I've used lead shot to insure a good grip on the die. However, over the past few years, I've changed the lock rings to the Hornaday version which I find are excellent and easy to use.