Light 357 Magnum handload in 38 Special brass for 357 Magnum revolver?

You can get Hogdon's .38spl +P data for Titegroup online. Why would you try to extrapolate from .357 when you have tested/published data available.

While 22,000 C.U.P. is fine for .357 mag, it is way over specs for .38+p. My fear would be some of that .38 special brass loaded to .357 mag levels may find it's way somehow(thru death, theft, improper marking of storage boxes, etc.) into someone else's .38 special. As has been said, there is so much published info out there for exactly what you are doing, using the correct .38 special cases, there's really no reason to experiment.

When loading 38 special, use 38 special data.

Just get some 357 brass. You might be able to get away with what you're talking about but I'd never personally play the "I wonder what pressure I'll get" game with my J frame 357. If you were talking large frame Rugers that'd one thing, but not small frame 5 shot 357's.

Makes no sense to me to load beyond 38+p data. While the gun may (likely would) hold up fine, you'd definitely be exceeding the specs for a 38 casing. Why, when you can either load to +p or buy some .357 cases?

Little slow on the draw here but I also do NOT recommend any 357-level load in a 38 special case.

I tried this once, a long time ago, and somehow one of the 'hot' loads ended up in my practice ammo for my J-frame model 60. No damage to the gun, but my hand and wrist took a month to get over it.

Spend a few $$$, pick up some once-fired 357 brass, and play it safe.

I load "light" between 38sp+P - 357mag loads but only in 357mag brass.

Why risk it, and no chance it will "hurt" a 38sp Revolver by accident.

My in between loads are usually W231 or Titegroup.

Use data for .38 special in the .38 special cases. There are a lot of good loads available up to and including for +P cases. Stay within published loads and enjoy.

Lafitte

My answer is the same as over on the other forum

I would not do it. Murphy always pokes his head out and inevitably those too hot rounds that are in .38 Special brass will find their way into a revolver they should not be fires in.

Buy the correct brass or trade for the correct brass or something else other than loading over pressure rounds in the incorrectly stamped brass. IMO of course...

Midway USA has Starilne .357 Magnum brass in stock and on sale. Check it out.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/941123751/starline-reloading-brass-357-magnum

i would invest in 357 brass. My lgs keeps it in hand for 16/100 and i try to pick some up evrytime I think about it.

Just duplicate the .38 Special +P FBI load.

Don

Is it safe - that's the question.
And what happens if you accidentally spill a box of super hot loads.

What happens when a load finds it's way into a 38 Spl gun?

For myself, I won't do that.
But of course you can do as you like.

To me there are two options for brass and stick with proper loading for which you choose.

You can always load +p 38's in the proper +p rated brass or load light .357 loads in .357 brass accirding to published data and there are no worries. Its a simple solution to a problem you don't want to face and don't have yet.

That's my vote.

It's been my experience that +P rated 38sp brass is just brass labeled as such. Starline Brass says so in their shop. What's nice about having that indicated is you know it's a +P load if you use it as such.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/38-SpecialP-Brass/

alexcue said:

It's been my experience that +P rated 38sp brass is just brass labeled as such. Starline Brass says so in their shop. What's nice about having that indicated is you know it's a +P load if you use it as such.

https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/38-SpecialP-Brass/

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This is a good thing to remember. +p brass just lets you know it has a +p load in it, it does not mean that there's anything different about the brass. If we depended on the brass to contain the pressure from a round when we fire them we'd be shooting a lot slower rounds. With a 45-70 you can use the exact same brass for light trap door loads all the way up to those that are just short of the 458 win mag. It's the strength of the action in rifles that dictates the pressure they can take, in revolvers it's the cylinder and frame that dictate the pressure limitations not the brass.

Not always true.

I have old Remington +P brass that is thicker and heavier, with less capacity then standard Rem .38 Spl brass from the same time period.

If in doubt, at least weigh it and see if it is heavier then standard brass.

rc

of course it is not safe. you knew that before you asked the question. sounds like you are going to do it anyway. we are not your excuse.

this is going to turn out like the guy that leaves ammo lying around when he dry-fires his gun. eventually, he is going to have and accident.

murf

I do this. It is safe. I load 38 cases to loadings that are above 38+P using Tightgroup and Montana Gold 125 grain JHP bullets. I shoot them in my 357 Magnum lever rifles. The loaded ammo is kept in ziplock bags clearly marked as being over-pressure rounds that are for use in 357 Magnum firearms only. I have a few rules that help keep me safe: 1. I do not shoot ammo reloaded by anyone other than me. 2. If I find a loaded round on the ground of the range (happens from time to time), or somewhere in my house, car, range bag, etc, I disassemble it and recycle the bullets, but do not use the brass, powder, or primer because I can't know for sure the history and load info for the round. Those are the rules I follow. If someone else can not restrict themselves to follow those rules, I can't help them or worry about them. In other words, if someone takes my stuff after I die and they shoot my reloads, well, seriously that is their responsibility. I can't spend my whole life, or spend my money for 357 brass just because someone else might do something after I die that I would have discouraged them from doing if I was alive.

I have about 10,000 once-fired 38 Special brass. I have so much that I have stopped picking it up at the range when I shoot. I just leave it there for anyone else who wants it, but I do not have much 357 Magnum brass, and the 357 brass is expensive.

The MidwayUSA item listed above is $138 for 1,000 357 brass. Compare that to thousands of free (I already own them) 38 cases, and well, that's why I don't buy 357 brass. Every time I think about it and look at the prices for new or once-fired 357 Mag brass, and then look at the buckets of free once-fired 38 brass in my basement, I just can't bring myself to spend the money on 357 Magnum brass.

Naphtali said:

I have a great number of once fired 38 Special brass. My total amount of 357 Magnum ammunition/brass is five factory cartridges.

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See if somebody will make a trade with you. Bestest and safest route!

Check the link I posted in Post #11. I'm sure there are similar deals on the net. I have not seen quality new .357 Magnum brass that cheap in a very long time.

Or, post in the for sale forum to make a trade.

I have done this, but only in an attempt to duplicate Skeeter Skelton's .357 loads using the Lyman 358156, which has two crimping grooves and allows you to seat the bullet further out when using a .38 case.

There's a myriad of good reasons to NOT do this, as listed above. Frankly, saving a $100 on brass is not a good enough reason for me to do it, except maybe once out of curiosity.

.357 brass is also thicker walled than .38 brass. Heavy loads in .38 brass takes it's toll on your brass, I lost .38 cases relatively quickly.