That little thing under the barrel and about 1.5" from the muzzle. I was shooting some fairly stiff loads - like 38 grains. Or maybe i just didn't have it latched correctly. I put it back on with obama glue and it's ok now, but i don't expect it to last.
Loading lever latch on my 1858 broke and fell off.
- Thread starter piettakid
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I've read that the Pietta latch and front sight fall off for some. The fix is to dovetail an Uberti part.
I haven't had an issue with mine yet (I use 30 grns of 3F T7 or Olde E and a 170 or 195 grn bullet), but have wanted a front sight as mine shoots a bit left. Sure would like to have it shoot to POA.
I haven't had an issue with mine yet (I use 30 grns of 3F T7 or Olde E and a 170 or 195 grn bullet), but have wanted a front sight as mine shoots a bit left. Sure would like to have it shoot to POA.
The barrel is threaded. Just turn the barrel to adjust the point of impact. Takes hardly any movement to get it where you need it.
As i said i used obama glue and i count that as epoxy. I don't know what "staking it" means.
As my cylinder gap is quite small I'd be reluctant to try to tighten it any more as I'm thinking that moving the sight towards the left (looking down the barrel as though shooting) would force the muzzle more to the right.
I've also read that Pietta puts something on the threads like Loc-tite that is a bear to break loose.
I've also read that Pietta puts something on the threads like Loc-tite that is a bear to break loose.
Crawdad1
Member
Tommygunn
Member
What in sweet Jesus is "Obama glue?" If it works as well as our esteemed CinC, it would probably make a firearm fall to pieces ......
Crawdad1
Member
Rodwha, did you see that job he did on that Centaur? Absolutely beautiful.
Good luck on what ever you decide.
Good luck on what ever you decide.
Rodwha,
I heard from the late Tom Ball who accurized many a repro for the N-SSA that Uberti epoxied the barrels in the frame but Pietta did not. He coached me as to how to turn the barrel on a Pietta Remington to correct a windage problem. Ubertis have a dovetailed front sight so you don't need to turn the barrel anyway. If the threads are epoxied you need to heat up the frame to soften the glue.
I heard from the late Tom Ball who accurized many a repro for the N-SSA that Uberti epoxied the barrels in the frame but Pietta did not. He coached me as to how to turn the barrel on a Pietta Remington to correct a windage problem. Ubertis have a dovetailed front sight so you don't need to turn the barrel anyway. If the threads are epoxied you need to heat up the frame to soften the glue.
@Crawdad: I did not see it. Maybe I ought to look for it, but I've seen a bit about Hoof a Hearted that I think I'd trust him.
@Hellgate: Hmmm... Maybe I recall it wrong. Maybe it was Uberti.
I'd be interested on how one would go about doing such. I'm assuming it wouldn't take much, but if I'm correct and it needs to turned to the left hand side (assuming you are holding it and looking down the barrel) I'm not sure I have much room before the barrel is too close to the cylinder face.
@Hellgate: Hmmm... Maybe I recall it wrong. Maybe it was Uberti.
I'd be interested on how one would go about doing such. I'm assuming it wouldn't take much, but if I'm correct and it needs to turned to the left hand side (assuming you are holding it and looking down the barrel) I'm not sure I have much room before the barrel is too close to the cylinder face.
Rodwa,
I don't think the barrel would be turned enough to affect your gap significantly. We're only talking a couple of degrees.
Here's a copy & paste of an email I sent back in 2001 on this subject of barrel turning:
If your gun is a Pietta you can rotate the barrel alittle bit to change where it hits. Also filing the front sight down if it shoots low worked for me. If it is a Uberti then it is epoxied tight. Forget about turning the barrel but it may have a driftable/dovetailed front sight and doesn't need turning. I had a lesson from the late Tom Ball:
Take out the rammer and score the underside of the barrel where it meets the frame for reference. Put the barrel in a padded vise and using cardboard to protect the frame you can take a cresent or monkey wrench and slightly twist the frame clockwise to rotate the barrel (the front sight being moved with it) a tad to move the POA to the aiming point. If you calculate the correction needed (lateral movement of the front sight) you need to measure the radius from center bore to the tip of the sight and figure the number of degrees of rotation needed to move the front sight "over". I did it at home but also mounted a vise on a 2X4 and clamped the board to the shooting bench at the range. It was a good idea because I had 2 Remingtons and tweeked one of them a little too far and needed to untweek it. Saved a trip to the range and about a week's time. Bring cereal box or tablet backing cardboard for padding the gun. Don't use a pipe wrench or anything with teeth that could cut through the cardboard and gall the frame. Good luck! It was REAL satisfying to "dial it in".
I don't think the barrel would be turned enough to affect your gap significantly. We're only talking a couple of degrees.
Here's a copy & paste of an email I sent back in 2001 on this subject of barrel turning:
If your gun is a Pietta you can rotate the barrel alittle bit to change where it hits. Also filing the front sight down if it shoots low worked for me. If it is a Uberti then it is epoxied tight. Forget about turning the barrel but it may have a driftable/dovetailed front sight and doesn't need turning. I had a lesson from the late Tom Ball:
Take out the rammer and score the underside of the barrel where it meets the frame for reference. Put the barrel in a padded vise and using cardboard to protect the frame you can take a cresent or monkey wrench and slightly twist the frame clockwise to rotate the barrel (the front sight being moved with it) a tad to move the POA to the aiming point. If you calculate the correction needed (lateral movement of the front sight) you need to measure the radius from center bore to the tip of the sight and figure the number of degrees of rotation needed to move the front sight "over". I did it at home but also mounted a vise on a 2X4 and clamped the board to the shooting bench at the range. It was a good idea because I had 2 Remingtons and tweeked one of them a little too far and needed to untweek it. Saved a trip to the range and about a week's time. Bring cereal box or tablet backing cardboard for padding the gun. Don't use a pipe wrench or anything with teeth that could cut through the cardboard and gall the frame. Good luck! It was REAL satisfying to "dial it in".
What in sweet Jesus is "Obama glue?" If it works as well as our esteemed CinC, it would probably make a firearm fall to pieces ......
Are you serious?? You can't figure out what obama glue?
Crawdad1
Member
Don't turn the barrel. Buy an Uberti front sight and dovetail it in.
http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/acce...er-firearms/1858-new-army-improved-parts.html
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