Benchmade Sharpness from Factory

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MtnCreek

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Do Benchmade folders typically come sharp from the factory? I just purchased one and it's not what I would consider sharp. If I hold the blade at the right angle and apply a little pressure it can be made to shave. It's not 'grabby'. It's probably as sharp as the factory edge on a Case stockman that you'd buy from Wal-Mart. Just wondering if this is typical. Thanks.

Edit: 154CM steel if that makes a difference.
 
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Mine have been pretty sharp. Some may consider it super sharp, but us knife guys have a higher expectation than many average folk. I call it quite good though.

It should shave arm hair out of box with little effort. Facial hair is another story though. Most folders wont do that very well at all until I put considerable effort into refining the edge myself. The edge bevel is not always perfectly even either. Things like this are typical with mass produced blades. Perfection in production will cost more money.

I take and reprofile the edge on almost all my knives shortly after getting them. I can put an angle on that is more to my liking and easier for me to maintain. It usually even out quite nicely too.
 
My Osborne Rift was plenty sharp enough. After a year of carrying I gave myself five stitches and nerve damage in the left index finger.

I rewarded by ineptitude with a nice pair of EMT shears to open clamshells.

Every Benchmade I've owned has been top of the list in sharpness out of the box. CQC7, AFO, Nimravus, Rift. I have to double check the spelling on the Osborne because I keep calling it the Risk, now.

I'm sure somebody has gotten a "dull" Benchmade at one time or another but it's like Big Foot. Talked about but never documented. :D
 
I have not found any factory edge (beyond the Buck 110) to be satisfactory, be it Benchmade, Spyderco, Kershaw, etc.
They are "sharp" in that they will cut paper and food, but they are not up to my standards (and likely those of the rest of you).
However, a few minutes on a Sharpmaker, and they are normally good to go. I have one small Benchmade custom folder that gives me a hell of a time getting a decent edge on it. Mind you, it holds an edge well, but sharpening that little sucker is no fun at all.
 
I think it depends on quite a few different factors...

Edge geometry - Benchmade's edge geometry is not disappointing, but also not overwhelmingly great, with a few exceptions. I would argue that, from a geometry perspective, the Ritter Griptilian is the best blade design Benchmade has had since the Pacific Cutlery days. Comparatively speaking, using a freshly sharpened Ritter Griptilian along side a freshly sharpened standard Griptilian yields noticeable differences. The standard Griptilian requires significantly more physical force to cut the same object with the Ritter. And even if both knives are made from the same steel, the Ritter will hold its edge much, much, much longer than the standard Griptilian. Another comparison is the standard Spyderco Delica 4, which uses a saber grind, compared to the Delica 4 that uses a full flat grind - the Delica with the full flat grind provides superior performance for most tasks. This is partly why a Chris Reeve Sebenza, which uses relatively soft S30V and S35VN, will often hold an edge longer than many knives made with exotic steels we equate with superior edge-holding.

Blade thickness - Many production-level knife makers are increasingly moving towards thicker blades on their folding knives. Many "EDC folders" have absolutely massively thick blades. Perhaps this is due to the "tactical" craze, but these knives resemble chisels more than a precision cutting tool. There comes a point where, once a blade reaches a certain thickness, it's not going to work well for precision cutting.

Blade shape/grind - Makers often use blade shapes that look cool but absolutely suck as performing the everyday tasks one would likely want to use a pocket knife for. Benchmade is no exception here, and some examples would be their tanto, single-edge spearpoint with a swedge, and double-edge spearpoint blades. The process of performing basic tasks is often more difficult, requires more physical effort to achieve the same outcome, and requires more maintenance than a blade shape better suited to EDC tasks. Like most production level knives, grind lines are generally pretty far from perfectly even, and now and then a subpar blade can sneak past QC. I've gotten a few Benchmades that still had a burr on them - depending on the severity, some contact with an ultrafine stone, and then finishing with a super-ultra-fine Chosera takes care of that.

Steel - As different steels have different characteristics, they can sometimes perform the best with specific blade types or angles. Some production makers may do a better job sharpening certain steels over others. For example, Benchmade tends to do pretty well sharpening their D2 folders to that 'toothy' edge many people love D2 for. If you are looking for a grabby edge, D2 is the steel for you. On the other hand, they don't always do the best job with M390 folders because they put relatively thick edges on them. If they make a M390 version of a knife normally in 154CM, it's not uncommon for them to set roughly the same angle on the M390 variant. The problem is that M390 has incredible wear resistance and it shines with a super thin edge that it can hold for a ridiculous amount of time, even if it is being used to constantly cut abrasive materials. Without an EdgePro or a WickedEdge, M390's wear resistance will make thinning the edge into an extensive project! Going back to the days when they used M2 high speed steel, most of their M2 folders shipped with ridiculously sharp edges and were far more aggressive cutters than the ATS-34 counterparts of that age.

Heat treatment - Obviously, the way the blade is heat treated will determine what type of edge the knife can hold for how long. As there is some degree of variance between a single maker's batches, there can be some degree of variance in performance. A more dramatic difference is the variation of the same steel used by different production-level makers. For example, I think Spyderco's S30V tends to perform better than the S30V coming from other makers offering similarly-priced S30V knives. An even more dramatic difference can be seen when comparing custom knives with production knives. Brian Tighe uses a steel called RWL-34. It is essentially 154CM produced in a slightly different way. However, compared to a production ATS-34 or 154CM blade, many owners note that the performance difference is almost shocking.

I know I'm missing a few but it's sleepytime!
 
I've always found Benchmade's "out of the box" sharpness to be just average, compared to other manufacturers like Spyderco or Kershaw. Their last run of Model 42s came with subpart edges.
 
I've had a few Benchmade blades and all of them with one exception were adequately sharp out of the box... The one that wasn't particularly sharp (and the bevels weren't particularly balanced either) was the only one I was a little bit disappointed with. Mind you it would still work as needed -but needed work to come up to decent standards (mine).

My daily carry is an old full sized Ascent (long discontinued...) with a "combo edge" that I'm quite fond of. I've worn 3/4 of the black finish off of it, exposed it to saltwater daily when I'm working, and it's still ready for any task needed. Overall I like Benchmade enough that I also keep a brand new full sized Griptilian on board my skiff as a back-up - just in case...
 
I've always found Benchmade's "out of the box" sharpness to be just average, compared to other manufacturers like Spyderco or Kershaw. Their last run of Model 42s came with subpart edges.

That's just a darn shame. The 42 was their signature product and signature products will create impressions of an entire company. I have an older 42 using the early T-latch w/o the steel marking and it is razor sharp...examining it with a loupe, the edge on the blade and the edges on the titanium handles are almost perfectly consistent.

And with many makers offering quality knives for a reasonable price (including autos, which not too long ago was an area BM had a monopoly on), they should not be letting those things get by IMO. Especially now that Kershaw/ZT has really stolen the show on high-end semi-prod folders (Kershaw Tilt, anyone?), balis are a market where Benchmade differentiates itself from other mid-high level prod makers, and they should realize that the quality control of their balis will affect how people see their entire company, in my opinion.
 
Once you learn how to hone a blade really well you will no longer expect ANY factory knife to be "sharp" out of the box. They are mass producing knives and do not have time to really hone a fine edge on them and if they did the price would go up dramatically. I sharpen every factory knife I have ever bought. Like most things in life if you want it done right you need to do it yourself.
 
Once you learn how to hone a blade really well you will no longer expect ANY factory knife to be "sharp" out of the box. They are mass producing knives and do not have time to really hone a fine edge on them and if they did the price would go up dramatically. I sharpen every factory knife I have ever bought. Like most things in life if you want it done right you need to do it yourself.

I get what you are saying, but IMO mid-level production knives, especially $250+ LEs, should not ship with major edge issues. A reasonable factory edge allows one to get by with a few strokes on an ultrafine rod or passes on a strop with paste. For me that is less work than having to reprofile with the EP!!! (which I am competent with, but slow in speed)
 
Yes but knife manufacturers have been shipping knives with hurriedly (cheaply) applied edges for 150 years. In the old days everyone knew how to hone their blades and didn't worry about the edge "out of the box". And the manufacturer has to settle on some sort of compromise angle and edge between razor sharp and "good enough" for a work knife. But a truly fine honed edge does tend to spoil you for life. Today we're seeing the same thing happen with many mass produced 1911s that barely run "out of the box". It didn't used to be this way. The main reason I learned how to build my own race guns was simply that nothing from the factories were any good. Bill Wilson will tell you the same thing. If you want something done to high standards you get to do it yourself - or settle for whatever the maker deems "good enough".
 
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Yes but knife manufacturers have been shipping knives with hurriedly (cheaply) applied edges for 150 years. In the old days everyone knew how to hone their blades and didn't worry about the edge "out of the box". And the manufacturer has to settle on some sort of compromise angle and edge between razor sharp and "good enough" for a work knife. But a truly fine honed edge does tend to spoil you for life. Today we're seeing the same thing happen with many mass produced 1911s that barely run "out of the box". It didn't used to be this way. The main reason I learned how to build my own race guns was simply that nothing from the factories were any good. Bill Wilson will tell you the same thing. If you want something done to high standards you get to do it yourself - or settle for whatever the maker deems "good enough".

If you don't mind my asking, what methods do you use most? Do you have any advice or methods on how to improve overall skill?

I generally use a SharpMaker for touchup, an EdgePro for reprofiling and setting a secondary angle, and several benchstones for free-handing larger knives. While I've gotten quite good using the EdgePro, especially with normal folding knives, I often find myself frustrated with the benchstones because I have several kitchen knives that I know can get much sharper if I had more skill in that area, and I know how sharp those knives are capable of being in the hands of someone with more skill than I. Some of them I can get working with the EP with a rig I built, but the size and shape of some of those knives really are best suited to free-hand sharpening.

I've only been doing free hand sharpening for the past 4-ish years using DMTs, and sometimes on more frequent basis than others. I get the impression that it takes a very, very long time to reach mastery here?
 
Pretty much all I ever use anymore is a DMT Fine diamond plate and a 12 inch Soft Arkansas stone. If I need to hog lot of metal I have a Norton Fine India (about 300 grit). But I rarely allow my knives to get very dull. Just a quick touch up on the Fine diamond brings it back to shaving. Freehanding takes a while to learn - it's all in your ability to hold a constant angle (any angle will do) and feel the burr form. My advice is to go to Walmart and buy some inexpensive kitchen knives and practice on them.
 
This thread helped me realize that I can't recall ever having been concerned over the sharpness of a new knife.

I always sharpen them when I get them--or at least touch them up.

I have purchased one knife that didn't have a workable edge on it and I had to do a good bit of work to get a good bevel and then finish the edge. I did write a note to the company about that.

But I have to admit that I enjoyed the process of getting it sharp. It was an edge with a double curve which is something I don't get to play with often.
 
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