30-06 Die recommendation

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PegLegPeat

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I have only been hand loading since the start of the year on a Hornady Lnl classic, but could not be happier with the results. I have been loading .45 acp and .223 rem with range pick-up brass and with the exception of one small batch of .45 that was not powerful enough to cycle my G30 properly, all rounds have performed great.
Now I am looking to get started loading for my Savage model 110 in 30-06. I want to load these for more accuracy than I have the others. What dies should I get? I will only be reloading brass that was fired in this rifle. I am pretty sure I do not need small base dies, but should I neck size only or FL size? Internal magazine, bolt action I do not think I should crimp these, is that right? Any recommendations on favorite powders, bullets, or recipes would be appreciated too.
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No, small base dies are not needed when loading for a bolt action rifle.

You can spend as little as $20 on dies and ah high as hundreds of dollars, I all depends upon what you are willing to spend. I have loaded 30-06 ammo that will do .3" groups @100 yards with both Lee dies and RCBS dies. For the most part dies reform all makers are now very precise.

As for powders and bullets, even though all rifles are different sometimes a good load is a good load. My most accurate load is a 168gr Sierra or Hornady HPBT match bullet over 57.0gr H4350 using a CCI LRP. That load produced repeatable sub 1/2MOA groups out to 250 yards in several of my 30-06 rifles.

Good luck and have fun.
 
I have always used RCBS dies. Started handloading way before the internet and that was what was locally available. Have always had good luck with them.

Nothing wrong with other brands of dies. If you really want to have a lot of options check out Redding.
 
RCBS has a life-time, no BS, no questions asked customer service. For that reason, I use their products which are high quality to begin with......
 
What dies should I get? I will only be reloading brass that was fired in this rifle.

You could neck size only but eventually you will need to full length size anyway. No, you really have no need for small base dies either. A set of standard RCBS #14801 dies will suit you fine or about any manufacturer's standard dies. You can of course, as was mentioned, get expensive RCBS Competition 2-Die Set 30-06 Springfield will run you about $100. You don't really need them. I would start with a basic two die set.

Ron
 
I use Hornady dies to reload my 30-06. Never had issue with them plus you get 100 free bullets when you buy them.
 
I use Lee dies to reload .30-06 and have been quite satisfied with the results in three different '06s. I have RCBS and Hornady dies in other calibers and they have all performed similarly well.

H4350 is my go to powder for mid weight bullets in the .30-06.

57gr under a 165gr SGK gets me about 2700 fps, while 59gr under the same bullet delivers just over 2900 fps. My elk load is 56.5gr under a 180gr SGK for right at 2800 fps out of a 22in barrel. Accuracy has been very good with all loads. Obviously you should start with book data and work up your own loads, but H4350 is a solid starting point for the '06. IMR4350 also works well, but Is more sensitive to temperature changes.
 
I have several set of rifle dies, RCBS, Hornady and Redding. RCBS has been the standard that others are compared too for decades. The last set I bought was the Redding Hunting set and their FL- S die. The FL neck sizing die is like 2 dies in one. You can just FL size the body or FL size using a NS bushing. Best of both worlds if you concern about over working the necks. The hunting set comes with the competition seating die which gives you a Micrometer head for fine adj, and alignment body that keeps the brass and bullet in alignment to minimize run out. I bought the Hornady set to use on my LNL-AP, just the std FL die set. All the dies made these day are fairly good quality that will meet your needs, with the LEE being the lowest quality. If your trying to get the best accuracy you can move up to the Competition or Hunting Die sets. But a std die will give you < 1 moa with the proper load.

Just pick one. If you go the NS route you will eventually need to full length size. Long range shooter have proved that there is really nothing to gain on NS when it comes to brass life. The one thing that does extend case life is annealing. This is the only thing that will keep you from splitting the necks. I have near 10 reloads now on some 223R Lapua brass now. I run them and all my 223 brass through the annealer every time. Keeping things uniform.
 
Redding or RCBS, I've been happy with both and never felt the need to look elsewhere.

The Redding Competition Seater dies are very easy to use; the micrometer stem makes adjustments to desired seating depth a breeze. If you worry about concentricity they do wonders as long as the rest of your process is done well.

Neck size until the brass gets a bit tight in your chamber when you chamber a round. Measure case head space with the Hornady tool and bump back with your adjusted full length die .002 (.003 or .004 is fine) so it still fit your chamber well.

If you are using Redding dies doing the neck sizing with the Redding Carbide Size Button and the Imperial Dry Neck Lube is a dream.
 
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My .30-06 dies are Redding, standard FL set, nothing fancy. RCBS dies are fine and I own several sets but I hate their thin threaded decapping rod sticking up, always seem to catch my arm reaching over the bench for something. Aside from that no real preference.

For your bolt-action '06, I really like H4350 powder and 165gr bullets - usually Hornady Interlock or SST. There are several '06 rifles in my family and I've been able to make all of them shoot MOA or better with one of those bullets and H4350. I worked up with each rifle and found the best accuracy at the very same charge weight with all of them; so it's the universal family hunting load as well.
 
I have Pacific 30-06 dies, they work great. You do have a good reloading manual, don't you?

IMR 4895 and 4350 are great powders to start with.

I think you will find that the rifle, no matter what the brand, will shoot tighter than you can hold. There is much satisfaction in working up a good load.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
If on a very tight budget, probably the Lee deluxe set which includes the collet neck die, full length die, and seater. It appears to have been discontinued

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/257541/lee-deluxe-3-die-set-30-06-springfield

Willing to spend some money (this is what I currently use)
Redding Full Length S die with the appropriate bushing (get the TiN coated)
Redding Competition Seater Die
Redding competition shell holder set (optional, but handy)


If you've got some brass that was fired in that gun, the Lee collet neck die will let you start cranking out some nice accurate reloads. Eventually you'll have to bump the shoulder, but at least the first loading should be fine. No lube is required with that die!
 
I load all but one rifle caliber on RCBS dies. The one "oddball" is the Redding die set for the K-31. I load only on the Rock-chucker single stage press.

I don't shoot competition or high volume.

Mark
 
I have always used RCBS full length dies and have never had any problems. Adjust the dies so the shell holder comes into contact with the die on the upstroke. If you do that the chamber length of the case will be about .002 shorter than the SAAMI chamber length and about .004 shorter than what your actual chamber will probably be. If you buy a new case from Winchester for loading purposes the new case will also be about .002 or .003 shorter than the SAAMI chamber length before it is ran through the sizing die. Cases that have been full length resized always chamber easily and accuracy is just as good or better than cases that have only been neck sized.
 
I have been reloading for my Garand, 30-06 for 4 years using Lee dies and RCBS dies. I cannot tell the difference during loading, after loading inspection, or shooting. I have many sets of Lee dies, both rifle and pistol and have never been disappointed (I wanted to try RCBS dies, "better" dies for my Garand, but I cannot find them "better" is any sense). I also have Lyman, Pacific, and Herters dies along with my Lee dies. I like to put a light crimp on my M1 ammo, so I use the Lee collet crimp die, also I have in route a collet neck die for my bolt 308, but as of yet, after 5 years of full length sizing do not think it is really necessary (I get sub 1 inch groups consistently w/full length sizing with standard dies). I just inspect my brass before each reloading and any head separation or other obvious stretching and I just toss the brass as 7.62x51/.308 brass is plentiful and cheap, and so is 30-06...
 
90% of the dies I buy these days are Hornady, but I've got a little of everything and unless you're into SERIOUS benchrest competition IMHO there's not enough difference between any of them to worry too much.

I buy Hornady because of non-performance related factors (they're generally the 2nd cheapest and with the free bullet rebates they offer they actually come in at a better value than Lee IMHO).
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I was planning on going with the Hornady mostly to cash in on the free bullets as Mgmorden suggested, but while on a day trip with SWMBO and the kiddos I spotted these on the clearance rack at Bass pro and they followed me home ae8102a0f39d2b6226c7e8700ac62253.jpg


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You will be just fine with those Lyman dies.

Honestly all of the major brands make quality dies.
I've used Lee, RCBS, Lyman and Hornady all with excellent results. I've never used Redding or Dillon dies, but I'm sure their quality is just as good.
I don't know that there is a company that I would say, "Stay away from their dies."

Lots of quality stuff out there. Those should give you a lifetime of quality ammo.
 
Full length sizing dies, properly set in the press, have produced best accuracy for decades for the .30-06 cartridge. They end up positioning the bullet best centered in the barrel when it's fired. Set the die so fired case shoulders are set back .002 inch.

Best die these days is Forster's full length sizing die with its neck honed out to 2 or 3 thousandths smaller than that of a loaded round; expander ball doesn't bend the case neck. Most any seater die can seat bullets very straight in cases so sized. And this die so set gives dozens of reloads per case.
 
Best die these days is Forster's full length sizing die with its neck honed out to 2 or 3 thousandths smaller than that of a loaded round; expander ball doesn't bend the case neck.

Doesn't' bend the neck? I do not have a 30/06 sizing die that has an expander that touches the neck when the ram is raised. All of my sizing dies size the neck down after the expander passes through it. After that there is the argument about the sizing plug pulling the neck and pulling the shoulder with it. My cases increase in resistance to sizing when they are worked hardened; firing a case 12 times work hardens the case neck and shoulder.

F. Guffey
 
The neck can certainly be "bent" when lowering the ram and expanding the neck back out. I've also observed that the shouldered can quite easily be pulled forward by the expander. I don't understand why factory dies insist on sizing the neck so small and then expanding. Brass does not exist with a neck that thin.
 
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