AR guys: is this a good deal? Good quality?

Thinking about this...

http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-1...bcg-or-ch.html

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That one looks like a pretty sweet deal if it's what you want.

As for my comment on the Trinity Force parts, I didn't mean they're junk because they are imported; I meant they are imported, and they truly are junk. Every one I've seen had very poor fitment, including being off by more than 1/4" at the front, crappy hardware, threaded holes strip easily, etc.

Aero Precision, top quality rifle at Brownells for $559 minus stock and forearm so you can add what you want. Aero owns Ballistic Advantage barrels which are very good.

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I recently picked up an Aero Precision complete midlength carbine (minus the rear sight and mag) from Brownells for just $540 plus shipping and the receiving FFL fee. Except for its nitrided barrel, it appears to be every bit as good as my Colt 6920. For some reason, though, the front sling swivel is omitted on these carbines. It's just a $4 part, but does anyone have a riveting tool I can borrow?

A nitrided barrel should be just as durable as a chrome lined barrel under non full auto use.

I remember seeing post about two years ago about chrome lined barrel vs nitride treated on other forums.
The chrome lined fan boys were very good with rhyming. " Go Chrome or go home" "Chrome will get you home" " Jack and Jill we...
But I see those same guys tacking about how Nitride barrels hold up longer and shoot better then chrome lined.
Look at how many guns are on the market that use chrome lined barrels. Non chrome lined far out weigh them. So ask yourself. What makes chrome lined so much better?
Now a chrome lined barrel will cost you a little more, but that is because it cost more to chrome line a barrel.
I use Nitride barrels on most of my builds. I did build one for my brother in law with a CRYO barrel. I'm waiting on feed back from him.

A nitrided barrel should be just as durable as a chrome lined barrel under non full auto use.

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Remembering, too, that the chrome layer is thin. It'll resist the flame erosion better, but if you're getting that barrel too hot, it'll still make the steel behind the chrome malleable and flatten out the lands.

As well, though anecdotal cases may be contradictory, unlined barrels tend to be more accurate. The bore must be oversized for chrome lining, and inconsistencies in that lining are not conducive to accuracy. Same reason stainless barrels are usually more accurate than chromoly, and cut rifled more accurate than button or mandrel formed (forged). Consistency.

I guess some others thought so as well as it's gone now. Wonder if it was a misprint.

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When you're perusing PSA and see what you want at a price you like, pull the trigger immediately. Things go out of stock very quickly.

its probably gonna do what you need it to do, and probably not going to break anytime soon, so you can have a complete setup for 600 or so plus whatever sights, so yea, who cares if theres a "better deal" that no one can share, or hasent been in stock for four years. If its what you want, its not a bad deal. Looks heavy though. As far as chrome, I have never seen a chrome AR barrel, fail to hold 1.1 moa or better, including 16" pencil weights.

Bass pro has ARs for 600.

Just save a bit more...get a BCM upper w/bcg and get a lower.
BCM is good stuff.
No worries there.

First AR build

I wouldn't sweat your first AR build too much. It's a learning experience and chances are it won't be your only build. And being modular any perceived deficiencies or mistakes can be fixed later. I'd recommend a mid length gas system for 16" barrels for hand guard space, sight radius, and softer extraction. A 1:8 twist seems about ideal for all but the heaviest long range projectiles. But I've shot all twists from 1:7 to 1:12 and all work well enough with bulk 55 grain FMJ. Prebuilt uppers from PSA and others can often be cheaper than building yourself but torquing a barrel is no big deal as there are lots of good online articles and videos. Don't get stuck in analysis paralysis. The worst AR still out shoots most AKs and the modularity and ergonomics allows you to personalize the gun over time.

I have had issues with PSA, I like Del-Ton a lot better. Right now Anderson is selling complete guns for $449.

On the PSA website it lists some uppers and parts kits as "freedom". Anyone know what that means? They seem to be lower priced than "standard" kits.


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On the PSA website it lists some uppers and parts kits as "freedom". Anyone know what that means? They seem to be lower priced than "standard" kits.

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Unless something has changed, their premium kits have FN hammer forged barrels, while the Freedom line carry button rifled stainless or nitrided tubes. There's really no other differences, unless noted in the specific details of the upper or kit, such as a chrome lined barrel.

There's not a thing wrong with the barrels in the Freedom line. In fact, the stainless ones have proven exceptionally accurate for me. Even the PTACs are shooters, just gonna come phosphated instead of nitrided, and sometimes the anodizing is more greyish than black (I've heard of finish inconsistencies, too).

Anyone know if PSA rails and barrels are loc-tited in?

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Perhaps the screws securing the hand guards, never checked any of mine.

I would hope no one there or anywhere else is dumb enough to put thread locker on a barrel extension or barrel nut.

A lot of people do, and several build books and sites recommend it.

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Where?

The only thing you should be putting on either is grease. Aeroshell 33 is the spec, but most any moly or bearing grease is fine. Definitely nothing with anaerobic characteristics.

Only place I use thread locker is gas block set screws.

I'd love to see those idiots' faces when they go to change something later and rip the teeth off the barrel nut or taco their upper.

Ordered PSA pencil stainless M-LOK 13.5" railed upper, magpul CTR lower build kit, and bolt. Think it'll be a good choice. I have a couple charging handles laying around.

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Should be a nice little unit.

1KPerDay said:

Ordered PSA pencil stainless M-LOK 13.5" railed upper, magpul CTR lower build kit, and bolt. Think it'll be a good choice. I have a couple charging handles laying around.

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Good luck with the build.

PSA does have nitride coated PTAC uppers.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/ptac-16-m4-1-7-upper-with-bolt-carrier-group-and-charging-handle.html

No Loctite on the barrel extension or barrel nut. In fact you are supposed to use a grease to help ensure that the barrel nut WONT seize up in the upper receiver.

Once you have the upper complete, it would be impossible for the barrel nut to back out without catastrophic damage to the gun.

Bass pro has ARs for 600.

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What brand? If those are DPMS or Delton, they are still overpriced.

You can build a basic AR15 from Palmetto for $440.

Complete upper with BCG/CH ($270) + Complete lower $(170) = $440.

That is hard to beat. That $270 upper has a Stainless Midlength 1:7 barrel btw. (see post #39)