Anyone have experiance with the Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP scopes?

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Arizona_Mike

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762 DBC: http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-...ted-acss-hud-dmr-308-reticle/p/pa4-14xffp308/
556 BDC: http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-...-nato-reticle/p/pa4-14xffp-acss-hud-dmr-5.56/
Mil-Dot (non-illuminated): http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-414x44-mil-mil-ffp-scope/p/pa4-14xffp/
Orion BDC (non-illuminated): http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-...or-3082233006-springfield/p/pa4-14xffp-orion/

Reviews on line say it is a great scope for the money. The main caveats seem to be weight and some people have reported tacking issues on some scopes after large adjustment circuits (an inch or two off after tracing a 24MOA square for example). Since I plan to center the scope and use the BDC reticle, tracking is less critical for me. I'm interested in the 7.62 model.

Mike
 
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I have the Primary Arms 4X14X44 Mildot FFP on my Ruger M77MKII T in 243 and I find (for the money) it to be a very good buy.

Mine exhibits no distortion at Max power and the image stays clear all the way to the edge of the field of view.

The windage and elevation adjustments are a little mushy but the "clicks" are audible and I haven't had any problems with tracking.

I routinely shoot this rifle out to 1000 yards, adjusting for windage and elevation via the knobs and it has never failed to return to its 100 yard zero.

The reticule is a little thick for extreme precision at long range but suffices for the type of shooting I do (varmint hunting and long range shots on steel).

For those that don't want to spend the equivalent of another "good rifle" on glass I'd recommend the Primary Arms 4X14X44 FFP series of scopes.

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I've got one on an AR-10.

Kinda big, yeah. I really like the ACSS reticle but it can be busy if you aren't using the features.

Good glass. Not US Optics or Nightforce good, but easily as good as any scope I have under $1000. Mine tracks fine, but as ATCDocktor said the clicks are a little mushy. I found a youtube video showing a hack for a positive zero stop that I did. That's kinda nice. I honestly don't play with the turrets all that much. That's why I got the fancy reticle, right? I've only taking mine (scope or rifle) out to 600, but I ring 24"x24" steel plates pretty regularly there. If I was looking for 1000-ish yd precision, I'd probably go with a finer crosshair set up. For a "mid-range" versatile scope it works pretty well.

One thing I really like is I can transition between targets, range the new one, and hold over all in the reticle with no dial fiddling. Makes for fast target transitions.
 
Boy it's long! With the second turret for the electronics there are not a ton of mounting options. I love the reticle design. The chevron tip is a better that a cross hair or dot because it is zero MOA wide. I don't notice the weight on my M&P 10.

I need a good mounting option. Probably order some Millet QD bases. It there any accuracy advantage to a 1 peice base? If so which should I buy?

The Nikon AR223 that was on the .308 is going to my SDM-R upper.

Mike
 
I have mine in an Aero 1 Piece cantilever mount. I didn't care about QD on this one and was trying to keep it not heavy (as opposed to "light" which wasn't happening)

If I wanted a QD mount I usually source American Defense. Good quality to price ratio.

I like one piece mounts on AR's because I can move the optic forward if I want to get the right eye relief.

20160807_095238_zpscpzyjcrd.jpg
 
I'm not a nose to charging handle guy. I tent to run my AR15 on the last notch and my AR10 collapsed by 2 notches. This scope also has a pretty short eye relief (I think Most American scopes have too long an eye relief the main reason European scope look "brighter"). Since I want to be able to run a backup sight, for this gun/scope combo it looks like I pretty much want straight up and down non-cantilevered scope mounts.

Mike
 
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So I think the ACSS HUD DRM is a well thought out reticle combining mils and BDC, 5&10 mph wind, and leads. It uses an 18x35" torso (18" references on the post and 35" references on the

Question is, why the 10" head reference at the ends of the Sprint/Jog/Walk lead markers? They make a point in their literature of using a 18" wide torso vs 19" because it is better to overestimate range vs. underestimate. The average human head is 8.6" high (no sex difference in height only diameter). Even the 99th percentile is only 9.4".

Is this chin to top of helmet?

6abavugu.jpg

Mr. IPSC has only a 6" tall neck and head. :evil:

Mike
 
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dogmush said:
I have mine in an Aero 1 Piece cantilever mount. I didn't care about QD on this one and was trying to keep it not heavy (as opposed to "light" which wasn't happening)

If I wanted a QD mount I usually source American Defense. Good quality to price ratio.

I like one piece mounts on AR's because I can move the optic forward if I want to get the right eye relief.

20160807_095238_zpscpzyjcrd.jpg
Click to expand...
Thank you for your Aero recomendation. They are very light and sturdy, don't block controls, and the hinged design gives very uniform tension which makes fine positioning and leveling easier. I think they are going to be my "go to" brand for fixed mounts.

Mike
 
I have one with the ACSS Orion reticle, I bought it specifically for a 30-06 deer rifle. It is a little chunky, but the glass is clear and the reticle is awesome. The ranging capability is very handy and I find that the BDC is spot on with their recommended load (150gr Hornady). I will echo everyone else's sentiment that the adjustments are mushy, but for the price I'm willing to forgive it.
 
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