357 Sig

So is there a particular question you have? Search in the reloading forum here and you will find plent of good info from past discussions.

It is considerably challenging based on the very small space where neck tension occurs.

Using bullets made for 357 sig, which feature a long bearing surface, not the short bearing surface prevalent on most cheap 9mm bullets, helps to combat the problems handloading this round.

Mods, please move to H&R

I reload 357S using Dillon carbide dies with zero issues.

IMHO, right dies, right bullet (flat point. longish bearing surface) and you won't have a problem. I honestly don't find it any harder to load for than anything else (I also load .30 Luger). The guys that don't want to spring for the Dillon Carbide dies report great success by using a .40 S&W die to size the body, then just finish it off with the 357S die to size the neck. A lot of guys also use a case filling powder like AA9 to help wit potential set-back, but I've never had an issue.

Chuck

If the neck is so short, 0.110" I believe, what exactly does having a longer bearing surface do? I am under the impression that a bullet's suitability for 357 SIG has more to do with the bullet's parallel bearing surface lining up with the case neck when loaded to the proper oal. The longer bearing surface is the result of a stubby nose and needing to make the desired bullet weight. Shorter ogive I think would be the correct term. The longer bullet bearing surface is located behind the neck and does nothing for bullet retention.

To the OP, I would suggest reading this

http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm

As a side not, I reload "cheap" 115 gr FMJ bullets in 357 SIG with no problems in a Glock 20 with an OAL longer than typical. The bearing surface is still longer than the neck. The longer ogive of the 115 FMJ is not a problem because I can load longer.

I've also found longshot to be the best powder for 357 SIG. AA 9 is pretty good too. The 90 gr hollow points are also fun. 1800 fps!

f the neck is so short, 0.110" I believe, what exactly does having a longer bearing surface do?

Unforunately, in many short bearing 9mm projectiles, the bearing surface meets the ogive of the bullet right where you need the neck tension to be. That doesn't work.

You pull the bullet farther forward, right ? Wrong. Wont fit mags and feeds/functions horribly outside of spec OAL.

As you mentioned , it seems to work well in a Glock. Seems that most of the cheat tricks seem to work in Glock assemblies, but most others do not have this luxury. "Longer than OAL" is a recipe for malfunctions in box magazines, regardless of type.

What blarby said^^^.

I load the 357 SIG without any more problems than any other bottle neck cartridge ... you do have to watch out for the style bullet that will give the proper neck tension ... it is not that the long bearing surface that it required ... but that the bearing surface be in the right location on the bullet( a more forward location) .... most suitable bullets have a short Ogive and a longer bearing surface ... the Hornady .355" (9mm) 124 gr XTP is a good example of such bullet and it does work very well in the 357 SIG

Don't be scared of the 357sig cartridge. Do your homework. Verify your load process with some dummy rounds and checking for setback. Once you are happy with your load process then 357sig should not be more difficult to load. I spend more time on case prep, but that is just my process and does not make it more difficult. Good luck and be safe.

I reload it with no issues.

The 357 SIG does headspace off the shoulder .... no matter what they say other wise .... it does ! The sizing down 40 S&W brass to 357 SIG is a bad idea .... the 357 SIG already has a very short neck .... so short that bullet tension can sometimes be a problem .... by sizing down a 40 S&W case you amplify the short neck problem by almost .010" because the 40 ends up way short .... theoretically the sizing can be done and the "ammo" will shoot .... I did a few brass just to see ..... it is defiantly NOT WORTH the effort and is a waste of good 40 brass .... there is a good supply of once fired 357 SIG out there .... matter fact one of the guys that sells brass in the classified section of this forum ...I have ordered SIG brass from him and it is a good deal and good brass ....

I had mixed luck reforming from 40.

Some guys have great luck, others not so good.

I honestly have no idea why.

I've reloaded .357sig for years. The best piece of advice I can give, and is mentioned above, is to get bullets made for .357sig (Montana Gold is my personal preference). After that just make sure to watch the neck for splits, since it's pretty short (as I'm sure you've noticed). I personally use them in my Sig P229. Have fun!

I reload w/o problems. Had some issues with some brass but it was the brass not the cartrige itself.
most reloads run very well with automated feeders for both brass and bullets and I am using hornady progressive presses.
Just keeping an eye for issues. The thing is once you get setup into the rythm then there is no reason to stop you from crancking out consistent ammo
at the same rate as any other ammo.