uniforming primer pockets?

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I tried uniforming my LC primer pockets tonight with my lyman tool linked below. I can feel some cases cut just a little bit and then its smooth and only a little bit of material comes out and some cases it seems like its cutting a lot of material out of them and doesn't stop, the others seem to bottom out on the collar of the cutter but some just seems like a lot. How much do you guys cut away on these?

Should I do an even amount of turns on each one or just go until it doesn't feel like its cutting? I'm worried about taking too much and having catastrophic failure cause there isn't enough material.
 
Now you know why Lake City brass isn't used as match brass. Primer pocket uniforming tools are designed to provide the proper amount of depth for a particular size primer. The "collar" is the built in stop.

Don
 
I thought you were going to spare us "with one thread" - lol and j/k ( I love (some ) of your threads).

Like Don said.
LC stuff is probably more mass produced than most (any?) 223/5.56 brass and you will get variances. The stop is the stop - your brass may vary.

If you are hell bent on accuracy and consistency - get some top shelf brass - Lapua/Norma etc.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
I tried uniforming my LC primer pockets tonight with my lyman tool linked below.
Click to expand...

Link? I assume you have one of these? I remember your earlier post but not what you have exactly. The tool, if it is like my link, can only go so deep. If you know how to use your calipers as a depth gauge you can use calipers to measure the primer pocket width and the depth.

Primer%20and%20Primer%20Pocket%20Dimensions%20SAAMI.png


While the calipers are not a perfect tool you can get an idea of where your primer pockets are with respect to the SAAMI specifications above. All you want is a clean pocket, you do not want to remove so much material primers seat too deep or fall out because the pocket width is out of round.

<EDIT> In the time it took me to post this two real good post were made. :) </EDIT>

Ron
 
Cheesemaker said:
I thought you were going to spare us "with one thread" - lol and j/k ( I love (some ) of your threads).

Like Don said.
LC stuff is probably more mass produced than most (any?) 223/5.56 brass and you will get variances. The stop is the stop - your brass may vary.

If you are hell bent on accuracy and consistency - get some top shelf brass - Lapua/Norma etc.
Click to expand...
different question. :) one was just hey what ya think. this one is did I screw up? ive got 500-600 lc all same year so gotta use that up first.
 
I hear ya - but let's be honest. You shoot your 223 damn well.
Your groups are likely approaching a point of diminishing returns short of a lot of higher-end/custom stuff.
What was one of your last pics a 4 or 5 shot group @100 all touching? Out of a stock Savage rifle? Right?

Some brass consistency may help - how much, who knows?

What is your average group now - and how much better do you hope to get?
 
Reloadron said:
Link? I assume you have one of these? I remember your earlier post but not what you have exactly. The tool, if it is like my link, can only go so deep. If you know how to use your calipers as a depth gauge you can use calipers to measure the primer pocket width and the depth.

Primer%20and%20Primer%20Pocket%20Dimensions%20SAAMI.png


While the calipers are not a perfect tool you can get an idea of where your primer pockets are with respect to the SAAMI specifications above. All you want is a clean pocket, you do not want to remove so much material primers seat too deep or fall out because the pocket width is out of round.

<EDIT> In the time it took me to post this two real good post were made. :) </EDIT>

Ron
Click to expand...


Sorry Ron I have this little thing below and it has that tool head attached and I just turn the handle. I open my calipers a bit and then use the tip on the back of the caliper and stick it in the hole and get 0.120/1.119 and a few 1.124/25. I try and measure from the flash hole but some of them it falls into the flash hole so I measure off the side next to the year for consistency.
 
Cheesemaker said:
I hear ya - but let's be honest. You shoot your 223 damn well.
Your groups are likely approaching a point of diminishing returns short of a lot of higher-end/custom stuff.
What was one of your last pics a 4 or 5 shot group @100 all touching? Out of a stock Savage rifle? Right?

Some brass consistency may help - how much, who knows?

What is your average group now - and how much better do you hope to get?
Click to expand...
I have never been able to shoot like this and the other day sent 3 fmj-bt through the same hole at 100yards. savage axis HB.
I want to start shooting out to 300-400yards and want to squeeze everything I can out of it. idk why I just cant stop I have to see just how far I can push it. I thought I found "the load" with the v max all 5 touching at 100yards in an inch square but want more for some reason. I tried seating depth, .1gr powder, cleaning and not cleaning the gun. I have to admit I have become obsessed with how accurate I can shoot. I'm even debating on a laminate stock to see if that will squeeze anymore out of the gun. I figured primer pocket unfirming would be another step to help it.
 
OK, the Lyman Case Care Kit. The pocket cutters can only go so deep and they hit the shoulder stop of the cutter tool. Likewise, assuming straight contact they are only so wide. It should be about literally impossible to screw up primer pockets using that tool correctly. As I mentioned before, run about a dozen cases and see what you have and if they take primers nice and snug and the primers bottom out below the case head.

Ron
 
Reloadron said:
OK, the Lyman Case Care Kit. The pocket cutters can only go so deep and they hit the shoulder stop of the cutter tool. Likewise, assuming straight contact they are only so wide. It should be about literally impossible to screw up primer pockets using that tool correctly. As I mentioned before, run about a dozen cases and see what you have and if they take primers nice and snug and the primers bottom out below the case head.

Ron
Click to expand...
I did about 10 last night. I put it on the cutter nice and straight and where a rubber finger glove to hold the case and turn it and hold it nice and straight. It just seemed some took more material out than others is what I was worried about. I also prime on the press so I will have to figure out to feel how the primer seats.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
I did about 10 last night. I put it on the cutter nice and straight and where a rubber finger glove to hold the case and turn it and hold it nice and straight. It just seemed some took more material out than others is what I was worried about. I also prime on the press so I will have to figure out to feel how the primer seats.
Click to expand...

That isn't unusual. Some will give up more metal. The cutter can only go so far. :)

Ron
 
I had a lot of S&B 303 British cases with their notorious under size primer pockets,which I didn't want to waste. I used my Lyman primer pocket uniforming tool from the case prep kit. The tool works well and as others have stated will only cut until it bottoms out on the tools stop. I finish off with the pocket reamer to put a slight bevel to make the primer insertion easier. What got to me really quickly was holding the case while prepping it,my hand would cramp up and hurt plenty. I got a piece of semi soft wood 1.25" square x 6",drilled a hole the case diameter near the end and rounded off the edges on the handle part. I inserted the case in the hole to hold it while I turned the tool,moving the wood through an arc as I did this,turning it over to tap out the shavings. This worked well for my application as the 303 Brit case is slightly tapered so it held firmly in the hole. I don't see why this wouldn't work with parallel cases,you would just have to work at getting the hole the right size to hold the case firmly enough. Worth doing if you have to process a lot of casings.
 
Unless you're shooting benchrest, I see no reason for primer pocket uniforming. I tried it 40 years ago, and I didn't see where it helped anythinhg, so i quit doing it.
 
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