.260 Remington project?

Despite good prices, I'm just not a fan of B&C stocks.

For 100yrd shooting, if you're a huge .308win fan, and currently shoot one and want this as a backup, why change cartridges at all? Why not keep a common cartridge so your trajectory is matched? The ballistic advantage of a .260 over a .308win won't make any difference at all at 100, but it'll add tool and component cost for you.

$100 is probably an under-estimation of total component cost. Even buying cheap dies for $30, then cheap brass .308win brass for $0.35 per piece puts you at $35 for 100rnds, and 100 bullets at 35c ea already gets you to 100 before you bought your forming die. Lots of guys do form in single pass from 308win to .250 in the FL die, but a forming die really should be used. If you're starting with .260 brass, you're looking at $50-100+ just for 100pc of brass, plus the $35 for bullets and 30 for dies... Or more for better dies, better brass, better bullets... And of course, none of that accounts for any powder or primers at all - and no forming die. (If you pull UP from .243win brass, you can get a modified expander for $10-15 instead of a forming die to come down from .308win for $75+).

Before I can give you any decent advice we should confirm what rifle this is.
It seems to me the rifle is a Savage 10 Predator Hunter in 260 Remington.
Does it look like this?


If this is the case, and it is in good shape and with not much use, I suggest you buy it.
Those rifles sell for around $750 brand new in various calibers and new around $600 so your price is a very very good deal.
The Predator hunter is one of the most accurate platforms savage has along with the FCP and Precission Carbine lines.
This rifle comes with the Accustock that has an aluminum backbone and a substantial upgrade and well below MOA out of the box, consistently.
The B&C is possibly the best value for a budget yet awesome quality stock and IMO one step above the HS precision in fit and overall rigidity.
But before I continue verify that this is the Predator Hunter, not the XP version but the one with the Accustock vs the Tupperware factory stock.
I doubt this would be the cheaper XP as those didn't come with the fluted barrels.

the bottom bolt release is actually the newer style. The old 10 always had it on top.

If you are going for an m40 stock, Leupold/Redfield recently made an m40 scope.
https://swfa.com/catalog/product/vi...ld-3-9x40-usmc-m40-commemorative-rifle-scope/

I use .243 brass and a RCBS .260 full length resizing die to get my brass, mostly range pickups. I may be doing it wrong but it's been working for me so far. I'm not after match grade ammo, I get minute of deer ammo from my setup.

I would jump on it if you want to add a caliber.

That is a terrific price for that kind of rifle. It is the same as the FCP / police / tactical with the accustock.
BTW the FCP in 308 now you can get for $575-600 new but if this 260 is barely used then it is a great deal.
The accustock is very decent stock with a very solid backbone and anchoring system.
I would try it AS IS first and then get the B&C later if you want. I would buy the used Accustock from you in order to help you offset
the cost of the upgrade or you could save it for a future project but at the moment I would not do anything.
The only thing I would do is getting a nice steel base and bed it to the action.
Quality steel rings and a decent scope. Redfield revolution and M40 are nice but I think for this style of rifle and round you
could do a lot better and get something that is also be going to be more versatile for a wide range of uses.
I think you should hit the stores and check a few out and look through them. We all have different sets of eyes and what looks
good for me it might not look so good to you including the reticle design. Make sure you adjust the ocular piece to your eyes
before you check them in the store.
You can get 100 cases of once fired brass and then 100 cases of 260r lapua brass that might last you the entire life of the rifle if you
do not go too hot and annealing once in a while.

Let us know if you want a list of scope candidates to go and check them out. IMO for this project I would look for the following features
in this order of importance:
- Scope needs to hold zero under any situation otherwise they are garbage. So it must be rugged and able to take a beating.
- Contrast must look good to you and reticle clearly defined with different brackground and light conditions regardless of the magnifcation setting.
- Scope must track correctly.
- A decent magnification range is a good thing to have.
- Parallax adjustment.
- If it includes a stadia design make sure you understand what it does and it is not prone to making mistakes. Beware of BDC and
drop/comp popular reticles that sometimes are too coarse and are not really that versatile nor accurate in the first place.
- A stadia with a uniform unit of measure is a lot more reliable and versatile like mil or moa designs even if they are simple.
- A first focal plane would be the ideal but this features cost more on average.
- Have nice turrets with consistent units of measure between them and stadia markings.

Initially stay away from the garbage like BSA, Barska, Simons, Tasco, Black ops or any brand with the word sniper on it.

Good brands from optics manufacturers that offer good warranties and decent value/features in mid range price in at least some models are:

- Vortex Viper / PST
- Weaver Grand Slam, Tactical
- Burris - several models
- Nikon Monarch / AR?
- Leupold VX??.
- Redfield (Revolution models)
- Bushnell AR, Elite, Several models
- Sightron - several models


Good luck.

NP. I think if it is mildly used it is an amazing deal.
I am saying about the glass because normally for a predator/target gun longer magnifications are desired even for 100 and 200 to get into target scoring or longer ranges predator/varmint.
A 3-9 is more like an all around deer/ AR / scope so I would seriously consider a bit more range, parallax and other features but you are the one who is going to use it.
There are some low budget alternatives for the steel scope bases, steel rings and scope if you look around. That is how I started the first rifle for my son years ago and today you even have
more better budget options. Of the Chinese scopes not all are bad. Take a look at the falcon tactical that unlike the Barska and BSA that fall apart, it seems to track well and hold together
with decent camera grade lenses.
The best thing would be to hit a few stores and LGS and check out some brands and models.
The LGS here are pretty cool folks and let me take demo models home to do optics and tracking tests in the back yard or garage. No need to mount a scope to determine many things.
For the steel base you can bedded with JB weld following a non stress method.
You can find some decent oem stuff in gunbroker, ebay, etc.. too. Some of the stuff is the same many known brands
use from the same brandless OEM rings or mount but rebranded. Same thing but cheaper w/o brand.

You will not regret using a 260 rem, low recoil and flatter trajectory. Excellent target, and hunting rifle if the urge strikes. Have had a Remington model 7 in 260 ever since it came about 1997. Get a barrel with 1 in 8 twist to get the most out of the rifle.