What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

Returning to powder charge setting

To return to a prior powder charge setting on my Dillon 550B I use a calipers to measure the powder cavity of the charge bar. After playing with the charge bar to get the desired powder weight, I remove the charge bar and measure the cavity. This measurement is documented with the other load data for the respective cartridge along with the powder charge weight.
 

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Light holder for Dillon 550B

Here is my version of a light used to check the powder dumped into the case. The light is from Cabela's ($10), uses an AAA battery and has a flexible neck. I used a 2x4 block, drilled 2 holes then used a band saw to cut it right down the middle and thru the holes. Drilled another hole in the center. Used a small bolt (5/32) and wing nut to hold the 2 halves together and to adjust the clamping force. This attaches to the primer tube shield and allows for adjustment to get the light exactly where you want it.
 

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This is the load data form I put together.

Legend:
GRS = Grains of powder
TGT = Target number
GRP = Group size

Under VELOCITY section these are the chronograph results:
HI = Highest vel.
LO = Lowest vel.
ES = Extreme spread
SD = Standard deviation
AVG = Average vel.
Est. Vel. = This is the velocity the reloading manual indicated for the respective powder load. Gives me an idea of how close the manual was to actual velocity.
 

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To return to a prior powder charge setting on my Dillon 550B I use a calipers to measure the powder cavity of the charge bar. After playing with the charge bar to get the desired powder weight, I remove the charge bar and measure the cavity. This measurement is documented with the other load data for the respective cartridge along with the powder charge weight.
Very clever.

Steve
 
This is the load data form I put together.

Legend:
GRS = Grains of powder
TGT = Target number
GRP = Group size

Under VELOCITY section these are the chronograph results:
HI = Highest vel.
LO = Lowest vel.
ES = Extreme spread
SD = Standard deviation
AVG = Average vel.
Est. Vel. = This is the velocity the reloading manual indicated for the respective powder load. Gives me an idea of how close the manual was to actual velocity.
Thanks.

I'm always looking for ideas

Steve
 
For transporting targets use PVC tubing of desired diameter (based on quantity and size of targets). Use PVC end caps as desired. Provides weather resistant storage and transport. Use Sharpie permanent marker to mark contents, such as different targets for different venues (benchrest rimfire, 100-200 benchrest, Bullseye pistol).

For loading primer trays, place primer tray on medium/large towel to steady & flatten tray. Any spilled primers will lay on the towel without bouncing or rolling away.

... Larry S.
 
Although I love to reload, it does get boring after a few hundred rounds in one session. Recently, I added an Amazon Echo to the bench. The operation of is is not perfect, but I love the classical and jazz music it plays. And it even gives me the correct time.

IMG_2140.jpg
 
For a relatively inexpensive scratch proof surface to work on disassembling handguns I have purchased the most inexpensive replacement car floor mats and so far they are holding up well.
 
Although I love to reload, it does get boring after a few hundred rounds in one session. Recently, I added an Amazon Echo to the bench. The operation of is is not perfect, but I love the classical and jazz music it plays. And it even gives me the correct time.

IMG_2140.jpg

Careful, anything you say in the presence of the 'echo' will be preserved forever and accessable by interested parties. It has already been used in prosecutions.
 
For Forster CoAx press owner who need to swage primer pocket crimps ...5/16 NF grade 5 or 8 bolt ...with a little "turning" for a swage stud ...




CoAx press owners already have a perfect primer gauge as far as fit ... the Primer system setup tool that comes with your press ...
 
Dead Center Pilot for RCBS Case Trimmer ... no different case lengths due to rim diameter differences ...




Use a rubber tip glove to hold the case ... quick and easy ...
 
I use those small red bins that can be wall mounted on a track for projectile storage, brass etc., and have placed a small piece of track on the edge of my bench right next to my press. I then put one with brass, one with projectiles, and an empty one for the finished product on the track so that everything is at my fingertips by my turret press while reloading.
 
Has anyone invented a clever way to fasten their press firmly to a workbench but have it easily removable? My loading bench serves as my "everything" bench (or vice-versa) and my firmly-mounted single-stage press is always in the way. Yes, I can remove it by undoing the nuts/bolts, but I wish there was a quicker and more convenient way.
 
Has anyone invented a clever way to fasten their press firmly to a workbench but have it easily removable? My loading bench serves as my "everything" bench (or vice-versa) and my firmly-mounted single-stage press is always in the way. Yes, I can remove it by undoing the nuts/bolts, but I wish there was a quicker and more convenient way.
I've seen some very clever ways of doing press mounted inserts with many of them in this forum & IIRC some of them are in this thread.
 
Has anyone invented a clever way to fasten their press firmly to a workbench but have it easily removable? My loading bench serves as my "everything" bench (or vice-versa) and my firmly-mounted single-stage press is always in the way. Yes, I can remove it by undoing the nuts/bolts, but I wish there was a quicker and more convenient way.

Inline Fabrication has a device called a "Quick Change" mounting system that is pretty cool.
 
I believe there is "T" track mounting system in this thread somewhere. Lee also makes a quick change press mount that is not too expensive.
 
Light holder for Dillon 550B

Here is my version of a light used to check the powder dumped into the case. The light is from Cabela's ($10), uses an AAA battery and has a flexible neck. I used a 2x4 block, drilled 2 holes then used a band saw to cut it right down the middle and thru the holes. Drilled another hole in the center. Used a small bolt (5/32) and wing nut to hold the 2 halves together and to adjust the clamping force. This attaches to the primer tube shield and allows for adjustment to get the light exactly where you want it.
Now that is a great idea. I use a Harbor Freight light with a 12" flexible light. But your holder idea is needed.:):):)
 
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