PSA LPK in a Higher End AR15 Build?

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1894

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So long story short, the build is based on a Mega billet lower with a DD rail, an ESS barrel, and Geissele trigger. PSA had an LPK with the trigger I wanted on sale. Everything was put together and seemed to cycle fine. I went to swap my end plate and noticed my buffer retainer wasn't moving up and down. I had to pull it with needle nose pliers. Turns out, it had a flange around the top of where it sits around the spring that was making it stick. Don't ask me how I missed this on initial install. I filed it down and now it seems to function. Yeah, the metal is raw but a drop of oil should take care of that right? Question is, before I stake the castle nut, do I need to be worried about any of the rest of the internals?

The rifle has yet to be fired.

Should I bite the bullet and get a DD/Spikes/Noveske/yourReccomendationHere/etc. LPK? I know plenty of guys run PSA lowers, and was planning on building my next that way. Now, not so sure.

Thanks in advance,

1894
 
Well... do the other parts look like they are going to work?

I'd mic the hole in the Mega lower and compare it to a milspec lower and see if there is any difference there. But if it is function checking normally now I wouldn't worry about it.
 
The good news is that the only parts you can't replace once the castle nut is staked is the buffer tube, buffer tube detent assembly and end end plate. Really with the Geissele trigger assembly you aren't left with many critical PSA LPK parts. Detents, rolls pins, magazine catch, selector switch, takedown pins and bolt catch aren't really high wear, stress or ultra precision parts. Even the springs for those particular parts get very little stress.
 
Good chance you'll get lower hardware (springs, pins, plungers, etc.) from the same source regardless of the retailer from which you purchase them.
 
I found the only real difference between standard bare bones LPK and high end LPK are the price and the trigger components. I shelled out a bit extra and got a Del-ton two stage trigger and lower parts kit for about $150. Held side by side (and very separate because small parts everywhere) the only difference I noticed was the trigger assembly parts. Detent and springs from kit A matched high end kit. I would recommend a higher end parts kit if you are building a high end rifle or the sole AR you will own. But if you are just worried the buffer retainer pin is faulty, get those parts on piece meal.
 
Thanks guys. Your responses are along with what I was thinking. I'll eventually replace the internals, but for now I think I'm ok for the range.

1894
 
If the buffer retainer was machined incorrectly and causing a problem......replace it Brownels has the part for a buck or so, and most of the small parts come from a few suppliers and meet military specifications or better.
I tighten but normally do not stake the castle nut because of my need to modify the weapons as new items come on the market or desires change. I certainly would not loose sleep if the weapon dry fires ok just take the rifle out and burn a couple of hundred rounds through it.
 
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