9mm Reloading

For light or moderate target loads I do not sort brass. I have a bunch with the "shelf" and never have had any issues.

If you're referring to a shelf on the inside of the case, it's there to prevent bullet setback - the bullet being pushed deeper into the case during feeding. That raises pressure & can be dangerous with high-pressure cartridges (like the 9mm & 40 S&W.) These cases are safe to reload (provided you inspect them for cracks or bulges). Some manufacturers use asphalt to prevent bullet setback - which can be seen as black residue in the case. As a handloader, you'll be relying on minimum case belling & sufficient taper crimping to prevent bullet setback.

Only your chamber and dies will know. I Started loading for 9MM with much the same background as you. 9MM plain lead bullets were always leading. Powder Coated bullets work fine for less expensive shooting. I try and cull the "shelf" cases out of the mix, but haven't had any problem when one gets loaded and fired. Some big name brands of cases cause more problems when I load a heavy PC 147 grain bullet and get a case bulge. Most still chamber, probably due to the 9MM case taper. Cartridge OAL has been more of a issue due to chamber throats and getting reliable feeding. Once you find the sweet spot it all works out. Titegroup was recommended to me, its has worked fine for my minor power loads for USPSA.

The 'shelf', or as I call it, 'step' brass, is safe to reload unless you have what happened to me. Normal loads, 124gn Acme Hi Tek coated RN 'lipstick' bullets, Winchester primers, 4.9 gn Power Pistol, 1.105 OAL. The case split at the shelf (step). The next round jammed, thank heaven- If it hadn't, I think nothing good would have come from it. I had a previous thread on it; my advice, if you have enough brass, is toss em in the brass recycle bin or use them for dummy rounds.
Previous thread: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/separated-case-9mm.801150/

magshooter said:

I will probably be using titegroup powder since that is what I use for most of my other calibers. Just to be clear you load all of your 9mm exactly the same with or without a "shelf"

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Yes, I run them all through a progressive press together.

BTW, the case volume is essentially the same as other, non-stepped cases. If you saw a standard case in half, you will find that the case wall gets thicker towards the base. I took a standard Winchester case and an AMMOLOAD case with spent primers, both tumbled, weighed each then filled with water and weighed again; the weight of the water was within (IIRC) 3%, I would say within the margin of error in filling the case with the water. As I advised, if you have sufficient brass without using the shelf/step brass, I would say that, at least to me, it's not worth the risk; but then again, I was the guy who had the case split on him.

I started loading 9mm awhile ago and had bullet setback bad with one time shot brass of mine and with brass from a commercial reloader. I got a Lee Undersize die that some here had recommended and it has stopped all setback. I just finished shooting 200 rounds that I loaded. I checked them a dozen times during shooting them and none of the ones I checked moved
So for what its worth keep that in mind though you may not have any issues with it with whatever dies, brass or bullets you choose to use. I have never used those type of step cases.

The 'shelf', or as I call it, 'step' brass, is safe to reload unless you have what happened to me. Normal loads, 124gn Acme Hi Tek coated RN 'lipstick' bullets, Winchester primers, 4.9 gn Power Pistol, 1.105 OAL. The case split at the shelf (step). The next round jammed, thank heaven- If it hadn't, I think nothing good would have come from it. I had a previous thread on it; my advice, if you have enough brass, is toss em in the brass recycle bin or use them for dummy rounds.

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I had this happen as well using plated bullets. Felt normal when shot 124gr bullet 4.5 WSF (should be about 1040fps)normal power load not pushing the MAX or P+. I just sort them out now to send to recycling.
I don't have a history on that piece of brass to say how many reloads but since I have plenty of 9mm brass I don't think they are worth messing with.
Amerc = toss
Step brass = toss
All others so far = load, shoot, repeat, until case neck splits or primer pockets get loose

Starr1der said:

I took a standard Winchester case and an AMMOLOAD case with spent primers, both tumbled, weighed each then filled with water and weighed again; the weight of the water was within (IIRC) 3%

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Did you run the comparison with resized cases?

Be mindful that there are two different types of steps. There is a manufacturer (don't remember the name) that has a very small step. then there is MaxxTech, that has a much larger step. I load the ones with the small step for plinking ammo, but pitch the MaxxTech's.

One more thing worth mentioning is that 9mm range brass will have a lot more cases with the crimped primer pockets. If you dont want them giving you problems when priming you will need to sort them and either pitch them or remove the crimp.

9mm brass is the most plentiful brass available and holding on to a few cases that will cause problems is a waste of time and energy FME.

I load using single stage presses. I am loading like a snail compared to you guys loading progressive. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of 9mm brass so Im glad to have stumbed across this thread. As I try to sort by headstamp any brass I reload I will definitely avoid the brass the guys have mentioned having problems with. I try to sort by headstamp for my personal recordkeeping. Good inspection is expected for sure and length would be another reason that will help get a nice finished product. Other than that they are like shelling peas for me. There is a bunch of the little buggers and it seems to take a while to get done.

Shaq said:

If you're referring to a shelf on the inside of the case, it's there to prevent bullet setback...

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You would think that. Until you start measuring, and realize the shelf is way too far down in the case for even a long 147 gr. bullet. For the rear of the bullet to hit the shelf, you will need to seat the bullet so deep as to already be set back too far. At least this has been the case with the brass I've seen (FM, Ammoload, and at least one other).

Shaq said:

These cases are safe to reload...

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As with everything else, they're just fine... until they're not. I've had multiple instances where the case fails right at the step, leaving the front of the case inside the chamber. Like this:


It's typically not going to hurt the gun. You have a brass ring in the chabmer, and the next round jams into it, not allowing the slide to close completely. You knock the brass ring out, and continue shooting. It's a hassle at the range, but could be a real bummer in the middle of a competition, or elsewhere.

It's really exciting when it happens in an open-bolt gun. In than instance, you get a loud "bang" out the ejection port, along with some chunks of brass as the following round goes off, only half supported.



Any more, I go through all of my brass and toss all of the "stepped" brass in the recycle bucket.

Range pick-up cost just the time and effort you've already put into them so I'd just toss the stepped cases into the brass recycle bin at your range. Or just throw them out.

This is another reason I sort by headstamp. My load data contains the headstamp information, so I can identify all the loads I have tested with "stepped" brass. The only stepped brass I have is Ammoload, used by Freedom Munitions. So far I have not had any issues with them.

stlcards said:

then there is MaxxTech, that has a much larger step.

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The Maxxtech I found were actually steel cases.

mstreddy said:

The Maxxtech I found were actually steel cases.

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The ones I had may have been as well, I didn't run a magnet over them. They were brass colored.

I sort all my brass by headstamp so the stepped cases get gathered together. I load my 9mm well below published maximums, so I don't make any adjustments for the stepped brass.

magshooter wrote:
I am new to reloading 9mm, any helpful information or tips you have for someone who is loading 9mm luger (9x19) for the first time would be greatly appreciated.

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Biggest adjustment for me was the realization that 9mm brass is slightly tapered so even with a carbide sizer die it really helps to lightly lubricate ever 5th, 7th or 10th case. I tumble brass after resizing for a couple of hours so the lubricant gets removed while the brass gets its final polish.