Ruger Blackhawk .357

One3, it's all trial and error when you're trying to find the best bullet/powder combo. If you like to load then you look forward to unraveling the best combo. I use three different loading manuals and then it's trial and error but hey you're shooting and having a good time at the range. Also keep a log of the combo's that you've tried and note which works and which doesn't. Good luck!

The WInchester 296 and H-110 are the same powders. They are both good .357 Mag powders. Just follow the data in your loading manual.

Are you wanting to shoot low recoil, low cost plinking 38spcl loads, or full power .357mag loads? Since you are shooting 158grn XTP's, I'd be prone to assume you're looking for full power .357mag loads.

If you're wanting to shoot magnum loads, there are really only 3 (technically 4) powders to mess with: H110/Win 296, 4227, and 2400. Personally, I'm content with H110/w296 for all of my purposes. A starting H110 load under the 158XTP is pretty stiff, but still relatively mild in a heavy revolver like the Blackhawk.

For lighter loads, even in .357mag cases, HP-38 (same as Win 231), Unique, or Bullseye. I generally prefer to run 357mag brass, and will use 38spcl data, plus 10%, to get to the same level of loads in the mag brass.

Like anything, start at the starting load in the manual and work your way up.

Win 296/H110 will get you the most velocity typically. 2400 isn't far behind. IMR4227 will probably post the lowest FPS, but it's always had the best accuracy for me.

No longer have any CF handguns. 296 was my go to powder for years in the the 357, 44 mag , and 22 hornet. Burned clean and shot well in everything. My brother still uses it for top end handloads. Used 4227 some. Loads at the lower end with it produced noticeably less recoil. Less velocity also,but, still fast enough to get the job done.

I have had very good results with W296 for quite some time, along with W231 for lighter loads.

For lighter loads, even in .357mag cases, HP-38 (same as Win 231), Unique, or Bullseye. I generally prefer to run 357mag brass, and will use 38spcl data, plus 10%, to get to the same level of loads in the mag brass

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This is what I do as well,makes for an enjoyable shooting experience

Lots of suggestions for magnum loads.

If you are just plinking, consider a mid load of universal or unique with 158g jacketed bullets.

My next suggestion is to try 158g lead semi wad cutters with 231, universal or unique. A lot more pleasant to shoot all day, accurate and cheaper and very plentiful. Full magnums have their place but don't be afraid to experiment.

Good luck and enjoy your new revolver.

0ne3 said:

Don't really need mag. loads. I think you are telling me to use .357 brass and one of those powders, use the .38 data in the book , and up the powder 10%. I, have never loaded that way because of saftey reasons.If i an not sure of what I am doing I do not do it. No, I really do not need high power .357 loads. what if I would go down it bullet grs. say like 125 grs. But, according to the book for 125 grs. useing H110 that load starts at 17.4. Would that b a lighter load? It seems the heaver bullit the less powder. I either heard or read some where by using a lighter bullet can erode you gun, because of the smaller bullet. I, do not see how this could happen because of the AOL.

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If you do not want magnum loads, W296 or H110 are not good powders. They cause problems if you reduce the load below published minimums.

2400 or IMR4227 are a bit more flexible in that regard, but still, if you do not want magnum loads there are a lot of better powders for light loads.

Also, for plinking or just range use, Hornady XTP bullets are a bit pricey. Cast, swaged, or plated are more economical and work great at 38 Special velocities. But, it is your choice.

HP38, Winchester 231, Unique, Accurate #5, and many others are great for light 357 Magnum loads or 38 Special loads.

You can safely shoot 38 Special ammunition in your 357 Magnum gun. The reason folks use 357 Magnum cases even when loading light ammunition is to prevent a build up of carbon at the front of the chamber that can occur when shooting the shorter 38 Special cases. If the carbon ring is not cleaned out every once in a while, it becomes difficult to chamber the longer 357 Magnum cases.

In my opinion, most authors of loading data figure folks that load 357 Magnum want magnum level loads so their data tends to that direction. As a result, minimum 357 Magnum loads are usually higher than maximum 38 Special loads.

So, 38 Special loads can be used in 357 Magnum cases although minimum 38 Special loads in a 357 Magnum case could reduce the velocity of the bullet too much that the bullet gets stuck in the barrel. So adding 10% to a 38 Special load in a 357 Magnum case should raise the velocity to match the 38 Special load in a 38 Special case.

In loading this way, I'd stay away from powders considered magnum handgun powders.

Shooting light weight bullets do not erode your barrel, shooting light weight bullets at magnum velocities with lots of powder might. Generally, it is the heat, velocity, and the longer time at higher pressures that does the damage.

There is nothing wrong with being conservative and cautious when it comes to reloading.

Hope this helps.

0ne3 said:

Don't really need mag. loads.

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Which is why I didn't just give you an answer for full power loads, but also suggested HP-38/W231, Unique, and Bullseye in my response, specifically giving info towards lighter loads.

0ne3 said:

I think you are telling me to use .357 brass and one of those powders, use the .38 data in the book , and up the powder 10%. I, have never loaded that way because of saftey reasons.If i an not sure of what I am doing I do not do it.

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Some folks don't like to use .38spcl brass in .357 mag chambers, simply to avoid ringing in their chambers. Increasing .38spcl loads by 10% to use in .357mag cases has been a common practice for as long as the mag has been around, and has been published in multiple reloading manuals even. You can often find reduced load info for .357mag for these powders which will match up to that 10% rule anyway.

I also stated these powders will work in .38spcl brass, and only gave the rule of thumb for mag brass in case you wanted to simplify your life and only use one set of brass, fitting your chamber.

0ne3 said:

No, I really do not need high power .357 loads. what if I would go down it bullet grs. say like 125 grs. But, according to the book for 125 grs. useing H110 that load starts at 17.4. Would that b a lighter load? It seems the heaver bullit the less powder.

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As I stated in my first response, starting loads with H110 are still pretty stiff, but in a heavy revolver like the Blackhawk, they are not heavy recoiling. 125's will recoil less than 158's, however.

H110/W296 isn't really a beginners powder. If you're not looking for a full power load, I wouldn't use H110/W296, 4227, or 2400. These are all magnum powders, meant for near or at full power loading.

0ne3 said:

I either heard or read some where by using a lighter bullet can erode you gun, because of the smaller bullet. I, do not see how this could happen because of the AOL.

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In a light/moderate load, with 125grn pills, for a Ruger Blackhawk, this is grossly exaggerated online (notice all of those modifiers?). For full power 110grn bullets, you'd likely see forcing cone erosion, even in your Blackhawk, but for 125'sover a moderate load in a Blackhawk, you will not have excessive wear. This is grossly exaggerated online, reiterating, by lots of folks who have never actually seen forcing cone erosion themselves, nor loaded the light loads themselves. It IS a particular issue for .357max revolvers, old S&W K Frames with the flat tire tenons, and for full house light bullet loads (more an issue for 110grn bullets than 125's), but if you load moderate loads, especially with HP-38/W231 under your 125's, you'll be fine.

This has absolutely nothing to do with cartridge Over All Length (OAL). It's about bullet and ejecta speed and the bullets ability to seal between the forcing cone and cylinder.

If i an not sure of what I am doing I do not do it.

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Good for you. You may live longer.

After you've been handloading for awhile and have read through different, reputable, name-brand published load books, you will understand what Varminterror is suggesting. Nothing he has said is out of line with safe practices. On the contrary; he has been quite helpful to you.

I either heard or read some where by using a lighter bullet can erode you gun, because of the smaller bullet.

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A *smaller* bullet here usually refers to it's diameter. Some published loads using a *lighter*-weight bullet can have excessive hot gas behind it; it is the flame-cutting action of the powder charge that can erode the barrel's forcing cone.

I have this same gun from the 1970s. Hundreds of thousands round been through it.
38 brass is much cheaper if loading on lighter side and a good place to start learning to reload. I've used unique, RD, BE, 2400, 4227 to mention a few.
2400 was good in 357 until it disappeared to the hoarders. I was steered to 4227 by this thread and never looked back at 2400.. Need to keep on upper side of loads with 4227.
I never had a problem with carbon ring if i cleaned gun on a routine basis.
If you go lead boolits, I be interested in barrel leading issues you run onto with the blackhawk.
Good luck

XTP's use h110 for magnum loads, if you want to plink use plated or coated with 2400, unique or hp38. Hard to beat some mbc 158 lead or coated behind 2400. 357 is pretty versatile and fun esp in the blackhawk and when i hit my range i use h110 for fmj and 2400 for the rest.

Go with what Varminterror, instructed you to do, and don't take any chances, you can't replace your fingers, just go with the starting loads in your reloading manuals, they know of what they speak.

What pistol powders do you have on hand? Almost any pistol powder will work in either 38 Special or .357. The slower powders are for .357 and the faster powers are good for 38 special loads.

If your powder isn't listed in the hornady manual than go to the powder manufacturers website and look up the data there.

In the other thread about the model 65 I listed my most used 357 load. That load was 6.6grs of Unique in a 357 case with a 158gr hard lead bullet and standard Winchester primer. It will do 90% of everything you want a 357 to do. Its easy on powder and brass and in your Blackhawk will not be too bad to shoot at all. You can also use those jacketed bullets you have with the same powder charge. The velocity will be just a little lower but not enough to matter. With lead bullets and a 4" barrel you should get around 1100 fps. With a 6" barrel another 50 fps or so depending on the gun.

I have loaded 110 and 296 and they are full bore loads. But on the average I have got better accuracy with 2400 in both the 357 and 44 mag loads I have tried.

I have a .357 NMBH. It is the most accurate gun I have. It shoots both my .38 special standard loads and full house magnums without a hiccup. I reload, and generally do not reload full power magnum cartridges. I aim for velocities from 1000-1080 fps. they are very comfortable to shoot and very accurate. I cast 158 g round nose lead flat point bullets and semi-wadcutters for these loads, although I have used 148 grain lead wadcutters at these velocities with good effect. Try five grains of Unique under a lead 158 grain lead bullet in a .38 special case. This will put you in the 900fps range. It is a nice load for the Blackhawk. For something a little hotter, try 5 grains of Red Dot or Bullseye under a 158 grain lead bullet in .357 cases. This, I think, will get you a smidge over 1000fps.

Manuals like Lyman and Hornady tell you which powder gave the best results. My step down from the full power stuff is with HS-6. At 10.0 gr with 158 coated lead SWC, that is still a strong load that should shoot well in a Blackhawk.

Take a look at coated lead bullets for a less expensive option than plated or jacketed, and no leading of your barrel. If you are going to experiment with loads and happen to push one too fast with lead, the leading in your barrel will be a pain to remove. There are several good choices for coated bullets - SNS Casting is a favorite of mine. I run them a lot in my .38 and .357 loads.

if you could find a june 2016 handloader magazine, it will give good info on some petloads for 357 mag with a variety of bullets and powders.

Dog Soldier said:

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

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Good source of info, as is your Hornady Manual. Only thing I suggest is to stay away from Lil' Gun in your new revolver due to excessive forcing cone erosion issues. I shoot 15 gr of H110/W296 under a 158gr XTP or other jacketed for general range use. Gives good accuracy, a legitimate .357 load while being relatively pleasant shooting. Hornady goes as low as 12.4. but I wouldn't go below 14.5 with it. 7.5 gr of Unique under a 158 pill is a pretty soft shooting load, yet still pretty accurate outta a .357 revolver. Just starting out, I suggest you stick with quality jacketed bullets like your XTPs, as jacketed bullets are the easiest for beginners to have good success with and are more forgiving of crimp and bore/throat size.

buck 460, thanks much for your warning. I have used L'l Gun in a Hyper .22 Jet with no identifiable problems. Do you have a link regarding this problem? I would appreciate any more information on this? Thanks you.