Case Building

Status
Not open for further replies.

jmar

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
262
I want to get into this, does anyone here do it? I can't find any resources online, maybe some of you at least know what materials they're made of and where i can source parts.

I don't know much about them at all, i just like building things as a hobby. So maybe we can talk about the history of them also, like for example why didn't we see them much after cartridge revolvers were developed? Did they come from the factory, or were they something made aftermarket. What exactly was their purpose? Storage for traveling? Decoration?

 
Percussion guns require some paraphernalia for loading and shooting, so certainly the case helped to keep flask, balls, and caps in one place. Possibles bags accompanied the plain jane firearms. The cases like the one pictured were called presentation cases and provided not only organization but protection for a higher grade engraved and finished guns. I think the adjective "Presentation" came from these guns and cases being given as gifts from the manufacturer to notable people, heads of state, etc. Check out R. L. Wilson's books for some photos that will make you drool. Some are "French" presentation cases in which the item fits into a shaped pocket rather than a walled-off section of the case.

Sorry I can't help with construction suggestions. Making fine furniture is not one of my skills!
 
Last edited:
jmar - I buy all my presentation cases from Hampel's Wood Products:

https://www.hampelswoodlandproducts.com/

He does both the "French" style that J-Bar mentioned and the "English" style you pictured in you post.

I have a bunch of his standard cases as well as two that he custom built for me.

You probably could not make one from scratch for the price at which he offers them.

However, if you need a project, I wonder if he would sell you the pieces in "kit" form along with some assembly instructions as a way for you to get started on your own.

If not, another option would be to buy one of his standard cases and reverse engineer it!

A number of my earlier cases from Hampel's had inset locks (as in your photo) but his standard now is the flush mount style lock.

He says that it keeps the cost down substantially.

If you want an inset lock style case, it will cost more (if he can still get the parts.)
 
Take a look at these cases:

http://www.billscases.com/index.htm

I have a couple of Bill Shumate's cases, and his work is top notch. It's not cheap, either.

Note that original cases had mortised locks, not the surface-applied locks or catches that you commonly see today.

Such fabric-lined cases are good for temporary display, not for long-term storage! The fabric retains moisture. Guns in contact with the lining will eventually rust. (You could grease the guns well, but then the grease would stain the fabric.) I suppose you could store the accessories (mostly made of brass, etc.) in the case.

A wooden case would be good, provided you deleted the fabric lining. But then it wouldn't be authentic.

I'm convinced that because of the rusting problem, even the original cases, back in the day, were mostly for show.
 
Fabric like that only holds moisture if the location the case is store is prone to temperature swings and the air is already humid. If the whole case were to be kept in a warm interior cabinet it would be fine. It's a bit of an old shooter's tale that fabric sucks moisture out of the air. By itself it does not. But if the location has temperature swings that lead to condensation issues then it sure will HOLD any such moisture for a lot longer than a bare metal or wood surface will do.

Jmar, if you look at guns from the time in many cases they were custom made at great cost and were purchased by the rich. Even back then engraving and inlay work did not come cheap by the standards of the time. And with a large number of unique caliber sizes it was expected that these older guns would come with the tooling needed to cast the proper size round ball and tools for adjusting the gun. I suspect the powder flask was there so that a "gentleman" of the time could carry the one box with all the items needed to load and shoot. So it's not surprising to see a can of caps and likely as not the spot in the top corner with the nipple pick or small screwdriver would also have been used to hold a supply of round ball.

If you want to make something of the sort for personal giggles I'd say go for it. But as noted by the folks already such cases are already available so don't expect to get rich selling them. But for your own personal use I think it would be a great project.

The market for antique locks and hinges is not that bad. With only a little effort I bet you could find antique mortise locks or modern copies of old small locks like this. The flocking can be done with flocking kits or you can simply buy thin felt in a wide variety of colors from such art and crafts stores as Michel's. And the wood can be whatever you desire ripped to size on a table or band saw. Finger joints would be a good option for nice sturdy corners or you could go nuts with small dovetails. Or blind finger joints! That'll keep you out of mischief for a while! ! ! ! :) But whatever you do do SOMETHING to increase the strength of the corners. The usual method is some sort of over lapping joint.
 
jmar,
Limiting the discussion for simplicity just to Colt cases, it is still a very complicated study. First, remember that you are discussing an article of furniture. Furniture styles and techniques changed over time during the 19th century, and those changes are reflected in pistol cases. (Again, for simplicity we’ll just stay with American Colt cases - English Colt cases are different in materials. design and construction.) Also for simplicity, we’ll limit ourselves to standard cases -, not book bindings, not French fitted, not double pr shoulder-stocked exotica. Just standard Colt single pistol cases like the one you showed.
As others have pointed out, the lock is internal, with a keyhole inlet into the front of the case. Look closely, and you will see the scribe marks for lock and hinges cut into the wood.
s5cj7k.jpg

(See Bill’s cases on this and related points - Bill’s are made after meticulous study of numerous originals. Another point he mentions is the use of raw pine for the bottom of the case - analogous to drawer construction of the period.) Yet another point is the fabric to be used. Original Colt case used baize, not felt. See here for clarification of the difference.

Most of this discussion relates to the Hartford made Colts. Early Paterson cases ( and some early Baby Dragoons also) were very different in design, materials and construction - really a separate topic.



As to later cartridge models - as noted the necessary accessories are far fewer. Still, there were some nice cartridge cases, but they reflected a generational shift in design and materials as well.

2wf8cis.jpg


I wish you a very enjoyable and productive hobby in making cases. Please share your efforts with us.
Berkley
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the replies everyone! I have learned so much from what you all posted. Bill sure does make incredible cases, he also makes replicas of cap tins, cartridge boxes, and paperwork. All thing's i'd like to eventually do! I wish he had an account on here i'd love to pick his brain! here's what i got so far:

They have pine bottoms
Mahogany sides and lid
Baize instead of felt
Inset locks
Scribe marks by the lock and hinges

Also to clarify i am not going to sell these, just wan a fun project. And BCRider i wish i knew how to do some of that, but unfortunately i don't have any wood working skills haha. Speaking of that i have some things i'm still uncertain of.

How is the box held together? Nails, screws, glue, or staples?
How is the baize held in, i didn't know they used glue back then?
Around the inside of the box on the official colt cases there's a thin piece of wood or leather, anyone know what this is?
Are the partitions just wood covered in baize? Or are they some sort of cardboard material?

I feel like i'm almost ready to order some materials. The last thing i need to figure out is the dimensions. they have to be somewhere on the internet.
 
jmar -

I have made a few of these, they are fun projects, not really that hard. I use wood glue, no nail, I also mortise the end joints where the wood fits together, but you don't have to do that, if you get carried away however and build a few more after your first one (guaranteed to happen), you will probably want the finished look of the mortise joints. As far as dimensions go, just take the model you're going to make it for and lay it on a piece of cardboard to create a template for making the interior tray and partitions. Once that template is made, you can come up with dimensions for the box. I make the box in one whole piece and then with a table saw cut off the lid. For the interior tray, I used art backer board because it's thin and fairly stiff. I made the partitions from wood and you glue them down onto the backing board. I did not go to all the trouble of finding and ordering Baize, I just went to Hobby Lobby and bought some dark green or dark burgundy felt. I cut the material into strips and glued them down over top of the individual partitions, the seams are barely visible - but you can do it fancier than that, of course.

Before starting with Mahogany, I'd build yourself one or two from inexpensive pine and then go the Mahogany route if you wish.

Hope that helps some.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top