The 10/22 I want. Recommendations?

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The wide body is what allows a flush fitting 10rd rotary magazine. Note how everybody else's five shot protrudes below the receiver?

This is correct.

I see a lot of .22 autos on the line as an instructor, and it's clear to me that the 10/22 is the best of the lot. When you see a 10/22 shooting CCI standard or mini-mags, the chances they make it through a 400rd course of fire without serious trouble are high. Any other combination, not so much. Accuracy varies a lot (many if not most rifles I see of any model have assembly/config or shooter issues negatively impacting accuracy) but the higher end 10/22s with free floated non-takedown stocks and either a peep sight or optics seem to be towards the front of the accuracy pack as well.

There are things that could be improved (clean from the rear, bolt/magazine manual of arms, trigger etc.) of course. But we are talking about a budget gun.

I'm not Ruger's biggest fanboy, but the 10/22 is solid from the factory compared to the competition.
 
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I don't think I knew about those.1961-1974.

yeah... the similarity in looks is there for sure.
The .44 carbine was inspired by the M1 Carbine. The 10/22, which came in 1964, was designed to emulate the .44. The PC's were obviously inspired by their predecessors. Neat guns, I wish they'd stuck around.
 
This is basically what I am wanting to do. This is a photoshop mock up I did today. It's a bit rough, but gives you the idea.
 

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I have been stupid enough to buy two of the stupid things....and both did not run for anything without tossing more money at them.....sometimes as simple as an extractor or other nickel or dime part, but they did need something to make them run.....people spend money to make them go....people buy them because of the huge after market support for them....nope I will go to my grave saying this bill ruger pile of junk is one of the worst automatic 22's in the world....but build it cheap enough so people will not mind shelling out another $30 to have a gun that will run a box of ammo and you can sell buckets of them.....

I have 5 of them. Only one of them has an aftermarket barrel (.920 target) and one has aperture sights. None have any aftermarket or replacement internal parts. All function quite well. None have needed any tuning or tweaking to work reliably. You must either have bad gun buying luck or your neighborhood must be where they send all the bad ammo.
 
I've got a lightly modified Design Contest Winner that I am extremely happy with...

Mods (roughly in order of progress);
Kidd bolt buffer
BX trigger with auto bolt release and TacSol eject lever
PWS Raptor Midnight stock
KIDD extractor and oversized trigger group pins
Bushnell TRS-25 RDS

The pic below is before the RDS was installed
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Will get some better pics in its current setup

I'm happy with the stock barrel, bolt, and reciever as they are, I may end up sending the barrel to CPC for chamber tuning and a recrown, and I might remove that silly flash hider/muzzle protector and put on a thread protector instead, also if the Hearing Protection Act passes, I'll get a suppressor for it as well, but right now I feel no reason to replace a perfectly good barrel on what is basically a plinking gun set up for fast and light use, if I want one holer accuracy, I have my CZ-452 Ultra Lux and Marlin Model 25 for that.
 
In 2007 I re-discovered my long suffering Ruger 10/22 and started shooting it again.

After I started shooting it again I wanted to do something different with it kind of like how you're wanting to do and outfitted it with a Bell and Carlson Anshultz stock, a fluted Green Mountain bull barrel, Nikon 3.5-14X40 Mil-Dot scope, Weaver mount, Burris rings and Butler Creek lens caps. It's been my most used rifle since then.

It was from this thread ...

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...dification-thread-hopefully-with-pics.296791/

I've often used it to hit pennies from 50 to 100 yards. Usually takes me from 1 to 5 shots to hit the one at 100 yards, at 50 yards it's usually a one of two shot deal.

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It really likes the match stuff, especially Lapua and Green Tag. After Sandy Hook/Obama's re-election all .22LR ammo became difficult to get. Past year or so and the situation has been slightly better. Best I've been able to find and shoot generally consists of CCI though, it's still stupidly accurate even with middle grade ammo.

Not exactly lightweight (although it's not heavy either), but it is fun.
 
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This is basically what I am wanting to do. This is a photoshop mock up I did today. It's a bit rough, but gives you the idea.

I like your concept. But I would think that if you want accuracy with irons (?), I'd extend the sight radius as much as possible given cheek weld and your eyes. If the gun is working well, longer sight radii always tighten groups. If it's a rear peep, you can run as ghost ring if wanting fast acquisition. If wanting max accuracy, install sight disk and go from there ...
 
I have had several 10/22's. I built a nice target version several years ago.

Then I realized that, once you understand how the barrel clamps to the receiver, if you leave the barrel floated you run the risk of distorting the receiver if you place too much upward force on the barrel. Not the end of the world but it definitely limits its field usefulness in my opinion.
 
I just bought another 10/22 today. 1967 standard. Had to, since I have a 1967 fingergroove- factory checkered.
The latter likes Blazer and does well at 50 yards. Cover 10 shots with a quarter- easy, front bag only, scope at 6X (not a rimfire scope).
Only thing changed was Kidd buffer (like less "clack") and a Volq hammer.

Will do that to the standard too.Already yanked the scope and put Burris Sig Zees on it.
Dunno what Leupold it will get.
fbmN040.jpg
 
Pops has a '66 FG .44 mag, non checkered. Pretty fun rifle. Aint shot it since 2007 IIRC, checked zero w Norma 236gr JHP, went to a new spot and filled a doe tag in 15 mins. Cleaned it up and stuck it back in the rack. Rifle proly hadn't been shot since late 80's (before I took it to the range and then hunting).
 
I like your concept. But I would think that if you want accuracy with irons (?), I'd extend the sight radius as much as possible given cheek weld and your eyes. If the gun is working well, longer sight radii always tighten groups. If it's a rear peep, you can run as ghost ring if wanting fast acquisition. If wanting max accuracy, install sight disk and go from there ...

There is truth to that. I may consider getting the rear ghost ring/rail like the one on post #58. If I did that, I'd just get a regular bull barrel [still Tac Sol], and have my gunsmith friend drill and tap it for the front sight. I'd like that too.....and would be able to run a scope if I want. May be a better setup.
 
Setting a rig up for both sights and scope, for accuracy.........proly won't be cheap.
My guess is a high comb stock, with sights that clamp to your scope rail and barrel.
Didn't find any clamp on for .920 bbl. Could D&T for a screw on base.
Found the sights on my Sav/Anschutz 64 to be decent. Dunno what they cost now.
Back then $150 new.
Champion's Choice has new stuff, cheapest was around $350 a set.
Need to D&T bbl and also get right bases.
 
Okay, so I think I may end up going with something like this [another mock up]. Probably not the one I put on it, of course, since it is a freakin $1400 scope, but similar.........perhaps the Vortex SE16241 Strike Eagle 1 6x24.
 

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I just bought another 10/22 today. 1967 standard. Had to, since I have a 1967 fingergroove- factory checkered
fbmN040.jpg

Is that the rifle on the right?

Know of any aftermarket stocks of the same style? Or is finding a factory stock that's been taken off (if you don't want the whole gun) pretty much it? I like that stock.
 
Ruger has not made that gun since '71.
Some fingergroove stocks show up on auction sites. They fetch stoopid prices.

Urban Rifle Supply offered a copy, but haven't for some time. I contacted them a yr or so back and they said it didn't look good, as they couldn't get decent wood for a run.

There is a guy that was going to do them, on Rimfire Central. Dunno if he did a few custom order or the plan for a run has been delayed/shut off.

Looks like a finished stock of that type, aftermarket, is gonna be proly 200 or more. Originals proly more. Checkered? Who knows?
A factory checkered sporter ('66-71) is the Holy Grail of 10/22 and they fetch a good penny.

They only fit a standard bbl due to the grooves on the sides.

Indeed, they are the best feeling stock for that rifle (and look spiffy as well).

I think the 50th Anniv 10/22 should have been a stainless model, with a black synth stock copy of that style.

Alas, they went with fashion and not class.
 
Last I heard, a clean FG (non checkered) 1022 was gonna fetch at least 400.
Some folks score great deals, but this model is of rather common knowledge and folks want them (prices on avg high and climbing).
There was a checkered one, not verified by serial # as legit, with a new style front sight on it (maybe bbl swap, maybe just sight).
Reserve at auction was 700 and it didn't hit it.
Was cleaner than mine, but dunno if legit.
I have seen clean factory legit checkered fingergroove 10/22's with nothing on them fetch over 1100...........no box or papers.
 
I have had several 10/22's. I built a nice target version several years ago.

Then I realized that, once you understand how the barrel clamps to the receiver, if you leave the barrel floated you run the risk of distorting the receiver if you place too much upward force on the barrel. Not the end of the world but it definitely limits its field usefulness in my opinion.

Isn't that why a lot of 10/22 builders bed the barrel and allow the receiver to sort of float?
 
I just yanked the trigger from my '67 standard and polished the disco/sear and hammer. Not much, just took the funk off. Did not clip or change trigger return spring.
Cleaned and touched up edging. Trigger pull was horrendous. Now it's almost usable LOL.

EZE-LAP superfine and a few strokes. Proly dropped trigger pull weight by 1/3. Suspect angle change (slight) on hammer notch and trigger spring change (or clip coil) might actually get this fair, for NOTHING. Yeah I've seen where some folks do trigger jobs, 25 and up plus shipping. Heck I swapped in Volq hammer on other one (and trigger spring) and it's fine as is. So if I botch this hammer I have another factory spare.....or can just get the Volq.

Had nothing else to do before I went to work.

Was supposed to hit the LGS and pick up the beater 1100 today. Might take my trigger group there Sat and use their bench/light to touch this one up and THEN do my NICS for the 1100 (which may get new stock and Gunkote the receiver). Trying to sucker the owner of the shop (good guy), he does great wood refinishing. My 1022 needs it but he hasn't taken the bait yet.

:)
 
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