Wow, different strokes for different folks applies here. I spent probably a month in filing, sanding, polishing, my kits before I assembled them, but I also spent a week in die maker school filing a 1" square piece of barstock perfectly square and then putting proscribed radii on opposing corners. I really like the fact that my Pedersoli kits were finished to my expectations rather than a production line finish. If you are buying kits just to save a few bucks you will surely be disappointed as the finished result will likely not be to production line standards. Homer Formby's Tung Oil finish is excellent as long as you use at least 7 coats polished by steel wool between each coat. But then I also clean my guns after every time I shoot so as I said, different strokes for different folks.....
That ain't nothin! The first BP guy I ever knew hunted squirrell with a Kentucky looking .45 rock lock and Deer with a .50 cap lock hawken repro. He was the tool and die makers tool and die maker. I changed the plugs on my stepfather's volkswagon beetle without cross threading a darn thing and I thought Mr. J was going to cry. He hugged me.. only time that ever happened and I got a sip of my step dad';s brewski!
So I'm from that other camp skill wise. Absentee dad, never bonded with step dad like that. Only learned to use chainsaws and weedeaters after age fifty when the axe and grass whip got to be too much after mangling my right leg at age 38. No mechanical skills, taught myself to fish, build boats and fly fish. Learned a little about guns from sympathetic neighbors in the country and expanded on that education when we got into shouting and pushing folks whilst wearing unusual clothes.
Never got shop class in High School, Home Ec and Electronics for this seventies kid...
However like you, my main reason for wanting the kit instead of paying the low price of a franklin to have it done professionally is the finish of the wood. I love old guns with simple stock treatments. We used to run a little linseed oil on our thirty dollar surplus rifles with fine steel wool at the neighbors house on days when there was no shooting or hunting going on. I'm not touching that stock with anything but sandpaper, linseed oil, and fine steel wool. I really like the way it's coming along and I'll be a long time working on it before I get to the metal. We have good browning weather here in July usually, while August is certified humid... I'm in no hurry concerning the stock.
The second reason is sheer ignorance!! I've read volumes but it's not the same thing as hands on. I like to learn things. I was the worst carpenter's helper in the State of Delaware when I was recovering from my traffic adventure. I have the references to prove it.
BUT!!! Now I can do simple carpentry and even built two boats our of b/c play that work great and don't leak.
Quite frankly, up in the hills I'd be a bit embarrassed to be caught with a shiny factory gun if I was around folks I didn't know. There are some great folks who are kind to all they meet, but they won't have to stifle a chuckle if you don't show up looking like the poster boy for Bass Pro
That's not the same as a fine custom piece...
I Know folks don't always read threads, but again I posted up front before the kit got here that it would be cheaper for me to just get the completed gun. On sale for under 400 it appeared to be a good deal for a finished flintlock with some good reviews, relatively speaking. A factory production line finish isn't the end of the world, just not what I want. Here is the direction we are going. This is one coat of boiled linseed and I'm about halfway through buffing it with fine steel wool. In another day or two we'll put on another coat of oil, rub it in, make some fine adjustments on the sanding with 220 grit and get back after that steel wool. I considered Tung oil, but decided to stick with plain boiled linseed oil for this project. I know you don't have to finish Tung oil to a high shine, I just like the subdued luster of a well polished linseed treated stock.
After multiple coats being rubbed in we will have the look we want. From the pics you might not sense a big difference between uncoated, initial oil coat, and first polishing but I can see it. The key is to spend a lot of time polishing with steel wool between coats for me.
* stand by for browser restart Pics will be along in a moment
The only regret I have about this kit is that somewhere in the last couple of years these 'rogue' trigger guards started giving newbies fits. I'm not that undone by it, just annoyed. Before that development by the reviews on Dixie and elsewhere it seemed to be the perfect entry level project for a goof off shooter implement. Now I ahve put my BP revolvers through the wringer, I let two of them seize up on purpose. However that's not how I keep them. You can hurt yourself looking at the brass on the triggerguards in dim light. The one that lives in a holster gets silicon cloth a few nights a week. However after paying rent wearing side arms my take on what beautiful is and yours may not match up. I still get choked up thinking about a Ballister Molina I let go to somebody who loved it even more than me. Shot a 291 at quals with those wwII sights... Many here might choose to shave their wife's head before being seen on the line with an apparent wreck like that thing appeared to be. SO yes, different strokes for different folks.
