What to check out when buying a Luger?

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FIVETWOSEVEN

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I was checking out an Artillery Luger the other day amongst a few other old and cosmetically challenged guns. The shop wanted a grand for the Artillery Luger which was all matching including the side plate. The bore had nice rifling and overall the gun seemed tight besides the grips which were very loose. I don't know what needs to be checked when buying a Luger as a shooter and I can't seem to find a guide besides how to identify what the gun is but nothing as far as how mechanically sound the gun is.

Can any Luger experts chime in on what I need to look at to determine if I am looking at a decent shooter?
 
I think the only way to know if it shoots is to shoot it. The seller may be unwilling to allow this, but perhaps if you agree to purchase if it feeds and fires 50 rounds without a stoppage, he'd be willing to go along.

Does the magazine match? Do the feed lips look undamaged? These are common issues with Lugers.
 
No Luger expert here but if all else appears decent and tight and you could test fire it and it works OK, then it still seems to me to be quite a deal. When I saw the price I thought, "what's the catch?"........ Even magazine issues can be cured with a new magazine even though ideally a matching magazine would be there. I have a regular Luger made at Erfurt in 1916.....All matching except for the magazine, the bore is pretty worn, but otherwise functions great. Loose grips could probably be dealt with. Tough to evaluate sight unseen but if possible could you get a second opinion from a gunsmith / third party? If it's functional a grand sounds cheap based on your description.
 
I am no expert but I own several Lugers. It is impossible to assess the value of a Luger (as with most any gun) with out detailed photos of all the numbered parts and stampings. But, if it is truly a numbers matching gun, with the exception of the mag, then $1000 is a great deal. A sharp, shiny bore is a plus. When buying Lugers you need to be careful and do your homework.

For a quick and dirty comparison go to Simpson's LTD website, a large Luger and other high dollar gun shop, and check out the Artillery Lugers and their prices.
 
1000 for a straight artillery sounds too good to be true.
All matching? So you were able to strip it down?
Without photos though?, well, it's not my money.

I'm figuring you are sure the receiver (or barrel extension) is a correct notched (for the rear sight) artillery
with fonts that look the same as those under the barrel and not a re-numbered ground standard receiver.

A few things you could check without firing would be to place the muzzle against a hard surface
and push down (as if to disassemble) in order to get a feel for the spring tension and the fit of the receiver on the frame.

A rubber eraser tipped pencil down the barrel - pointed up - and then pulling the trigger will tell you about the
firing pin and spring if complete disassembly is not an option.

One could make up some dummy rounds with no primer in place to cycle through the action.
When doing this, work the toggle vigorously while being sure to release it cleanly.

If those passed for me I would buy it, provided I was actually looking at the gun and not the description!
Good luck with your decision, JT

JT
 
If you do get to cycle the gun with dummy rounds, make sure you use snap caps or made up test dummies (with a cushion of some kind, not just an empty primer pocket!). Don't snap a Luger on an empty chamber, the firing pins cost too much, and do break. I doubt any of us could give you valid advice without seeing the gun or at least good pictures. Still, any matching artillery in reasonable shape would be worth the amount you mention; check for broken or missing parts, replaced parts (maybe with faked :"matching" numbers, and a refinish/reblue job.

Jim
 
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