Anybody drill out a nipple?

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4v50 Gary

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Friend suggested that I get a spare nipple and drill it out for cleaning. It would allow for more water to be pumped into/out of the barrel during cleaning.
 
I could see how that might help a little. Personally, I probably wouldn't bother, because I want to be certain that the flash channel was well cleaned and clear of obstruction all the way through, including the nipple that I use to shoot the rifle.
For me, changing out the nipple would be an extra and unnecessary step.

I use my air compressor on my muzzleloaders to dry them out after cleaning. A rubber tipped blower works great on my locks and blowing moisture out of the nipple/drum/breech.
 
Hold a nipple up to the light and look at the size of the flash hole. So a drilled out nipple would surely allow a greater flow of water. A thought, some zerk fittings are the same thread as some nipples. If one went that route a grease fitting could be modified to accept a water tube. For my self in my black powder hunting days I simple removed the stock and nipple, submerged the breech in a bucket of hot water and used a tight fitting patch at the muzzle to create a pumping action.
 
Hold a nipple up to the light and look at the size of the flash hole. So a drilled out nipple would surely allow a greater flow of water. A thought, some zerk fittings are the same thread as some nipples. If one went that route a grease fitting could be modified to accept a water tube. For my self in my black powder hunting days I simple removed the stock and nipple, submerged the breech in a bucket of hot water and used a tight fitting patch at the muzzle to create a pumping action.
That's how I do it.
 
Friend suggested that I get a spare nipple and drill it out for cleaning. It would allow for more water to be pumped into/out of the barrel during cleaning.
Meaning, your going to install the larger hole nipple every time to clean, then put back the smaller original before firing? I just remove my flint lock flash hole to clean.

The firearm should not be fired with the larger hole. IMO.
 
never have gone through all that work.
I Have a 1978 CVA 50 cal. block of the nipple piece of cloth or leather pour some rubbing alcohol down the barrel Let soak a bit, run a patch in and out a few times to loosen the crud. unblock nipple remove the nipple and clean out screw flush with clean patches and RA. If really bad and nice out side, I do the above, then use the garden hose with sprayer to flush.
But normally just the first part above
 
I think the suggestion was to use a drilled out nipple in conjunction with a hose attached, so that the water in a bucket can be pumped back & forth through tbe barrel. Uncle Mike's used to make a barrel flushing kit that was essentially a drilled out nipple, a rubber o-ring & a length of aquarium hose, they worked ok but there are quicker & just as effective methods of cleaning.
 
Should have mentioned that he puts a tube over the bored out nipple and the larger hole allows for more water passage.
 
Should have mentioned that he puts a tube over the bored out nipple and the larger hole allows for more water passage.
The only reason to do this is if you don't want to remove the barrel from the stock....otherwise just remove the barrel and take the nipple out.
 
Should have mentioned that he puts a tube over the bored out nipple and the larger hole allows for more water passage.

I use a zerk fitting ....since I have an assortment of sizes. Drill out the ball bearing and used it to thread in the nipple hole. Attach a clear plastic tube. Both can be purchased at tractor supply. You can then pump water/cleaning fluid mix up into the barrel or pour down the barrel and allowed to run out without removing the barrel. When it runs clear, blow out with compressed air
Mop barrel with choice of oil/lub
I run my mix down the barrel and out the fitting/tube.
 
The trick with a drilled out nipple and hose has been used for cleaning muskets for years, not because it is necessarily superior but because it keeps the not water from getting all over, including down into the stock, if you don't want to bother pulling the barrel out of the stock.

Jim
 
You have to look how the barrel is fastened to the stock. On most custom longrifles the barrel is pinned in place and its not recommended that you punch those pins out to separate the barrel and stock.
 
The late Gary Brumfield told me that he treated all the wood and the metal with beeswax; inside and out. If he got lazy, he'd put his rifle in the stream to clean it out and come back the next day to retrieve it.
 
The late Gary Brumfield told me that he treated all the wood and the metal with beeswax; inside and out. If he got lazy, he'd put his rifle in the stream to clean it out and come back the next day to retrieve it.

He wasn't serious I hope. On the other hand I use a 50/50 Crisco/beeswax on wads, saturated thru and thru. Even after cleaning with warm water the revolvers metal has a waxy feel and appearance. The beeswax leaves a film I suppose. I also keep a tin of beeswax softened with turpentine to lube screws and wax machine surfaces in my wood shop. Bees wax has a high melting point, around 150F I think.
 
Gary was serious. I wouldn't do it myself. The creek near my house is always muddy. Last year it was clear and I could see trout. I doubt if any trout lives in it now.
 
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