Favor from Colt BP owners

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Tomahawk674

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Hello everyone, could I ask a favor from the colt/uberti repro owners that have their gun handy?

If you take your barrel off, look at it from above with the muzzle pointed up, and insert a straight object through the wedge slot, pressing against the end closest to the cylinder, where the wedge pushes against the barrel, is the slot perfectly perpendicular to the barrel?

On my repro (which I'm having fitment issues) the slot alignment is off. The right side where the wedge goes in is closer to the cylinder than the left. I am attaching a drawing of a "cutaway" with the top being the muzzle end, bottom being the cylinder end.

Does your colt have that? how pronounced? it's so bad in mine now that the wedge is having a problem clearing the slot on the left side of the barrel, so it doesn't want to go through. This gun is 10 years old and has at least 1200 rounds through it.
 

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As far as I can tell with the straight edge I used, yes it is perpendicular with the barrel.
 
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Thank you so much. This means my barrel slot is streched on the right. Very odd; it's a uberti navy with lots of rounds through it, but never conicals and no full loads. The angle on the slot is pretty noticeable, the wedge is not going in straight at all.

I could try filling in the slot on the other side. Perhaps a new barrel is in order.
 
The edges of the wedge slot in the barrel at the point nearest the cylinder should be such that a straight object placed on both will be perpendicular to the barrel. You best check this with a rule or dial caliper and measure both sides. It is not likely that one side is off from the other unless some unknowledgeable gunsmith altered it as from the factory it is a broached slot .
What you describe with the wedge entering easily and barely clearing the opposite side is how it is supposed to work. The wedge is just that a wedge and is narrower at the front and wider at the rear. The angled top edge contacts a corresponding angle in the arbor and as the wedge is pushed through the barrel is wedged into lockup and the gun is held together.
 
Take a look at my little diagram; I took a straight object (brass punch) and slide it into the slot, touching both ends near the cylinder. The angle it created was not perpendicular at all, I did this with the barrel alone, no frame. When the wedge goes in with the frame, it goes through the slot on the right, the arbor, then crashes against the other slot. It used to go through better, but now it's terrible. It looks like the wedge would have to roate a few degrees to successfully go thorugh. The problem had been worsening over the last few years. I have 2 wedges handy, old and new, same problem.

I'll try to take a picture and show you guys.
 
So when you assemble the revolver and you put the wedge in it does NOT go in straight but is canted to the left?
 
I'll try to describe what happens. I hold the gun with the muzzle facing away from me. I insert the wede on the right. It innitially goes to the left. When I push it through, it starts to straighten up, then it hits the inner side of the left wedge slot. I can't wiggle it much in after that.

If I can think back ot when the gun was new, the wedge never really rotated that much, it just went in. I think the right slot is the problem. I am attaching pictures. Look at the difference in the slot shapes.
 

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Ok, I still don't understand this. You're starting the wedge on the right side of the barrel while your holding the barrel with the muzzle facing away from you? Is that what you're saying? Enough with the left and right.

Ok, when you assemble the revolver and you start the wedge under its retaining screw, on that side of the barrel, it doesn't go straight in all the way through the arbor to the other side of the barrel?
 
I'll try to describe what happens. I hold the gun with the muzzle facing away from me. I insert the wede on the right. It innitially goes to the left. When I push it through, it starts to straighten up, then it hits the inner side of the left wedge slot. I can't wiggle it much in after that.

If I can think back ot when the gun was new, the wedge never really rotated that much, it just went in. I think the right slot is the problem. I am attaching pictures. Look at the difference in the slot shapes.
The important difference is the distance from the slot on each side to the back of the barrel, which appears to be the same as it should. From your statement that with the muzzle facing away from you that you insert the wedge from the right. This is exactly the opposite of how you should do it. As Crawdad said the wedge starts in from the left with the muzzle pointed away from you. Or more easily put from the side that has the screw hole above the wedge slot.
 
Yes sorry, I inverted my statement exactly. I'll try to measure that distance when available. I appreciate the help so far.

PS: Apparently wedges cost $23 to $28 now???
 
Has the arbor length ever been dealt with? First do this to keep the barrel from acting like a hammer.
There is an open top gunsmith repair for bad wedge slots that uses a 1/4 28 allen head screw drilled and taped in the arbor end to remove play. I have 3 with this done.
 
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Take a close look at the barrel behind the wedge on the top Navy and you will see that it was badly beat out of shape. This gun now has barrel/cylinder gap of.003 the arbor shimmed and the screw to take up the wedge and a few other tune ups to make it one of my favorites.
 
Hi,

The Uberti Colt aren't arbor bottomed (axis not at the bottom is better ? ), never, perhaps a wear could occur with time, this causes a tightening between the barrel and the cylinder and a bad position of the wedge, bad position that stay when frequent use . I did have to correct this on one of mine with a screw at the end of the axis...

It's an idea, no more but the problem still real with some Uberti and not only the oldests Uberti/Beretta...

I say that but I said nothing: to difficult to explane in american language, much people understand what I mean and they can explain it mutch better than me...

Have nice day. ;)
 
The Colt open top needs all of it's parts to fit tight as one piece, arbor bottomed out, wedge so that it fits proper and the barrel to cylinder gap taken care of with the preceding fits. There are sources on these "adjustments" some in this form history.
These guns will shoot and most even hit what your shooting at with out being set up but their life is shortened (to maybe 1200 rounds). Most of the time they can be saved, but it is easier to set them up before they start loosening up.
Or get one of those Remingtons or a Ruger Old Army.
 
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Take a close look at the barrel behind the wedge on the top Navy and you will see that it was badly beat out of shape. This gun now has barrel/cylinder gap of.003 the arbor shimmed and the screw to take up the wedge and a few other tune ups to make it one of my favorites.

Hello, what do you think causes the wedge slot to deform like that? soft steel?

I tried doing some correcting on mine. I had to shim the wedge slot because the gap was over 0.021. I wouldn't want to shoot it that way. I tried jb welding a super thin steel shim, and then I had to file it to size. I was able to get the wedge to go through and the gap is more like 0.005 now. With the shim, the wedge doesn't seem to be going in with a strong angle anymore. I hope the JB weld holds up to the pounding of shooting.

Either way, I know the original colt design didn't have in mind someone running thousands of rounds through it. I'm already thinking about an 1858 or other solid frame. The 1861 looks so good though, I may need a new one from Cimarron to shoot every once in a while.
 
Either way, I know the original colt design didn't have in mind someone running thousands of rounds through it. I'm already thinking about an 1858 or other solid frame. The 1861 looks so good though, I may need a new one from Cimarron to shoot every once in a while.

Original Colts can easily take that kind of pounding. Its the replicas today that are suspect. But I have quite a few rounds through my 1860 Army repro including 45 Long Colt and 45 Schofield cartridges with no ill effects. Yours just quit, that's all.
 
I did a search and found that a sheet of copy paper is .004 thick. That's a good gauge. :)
 
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