FM Hi Power FTE Issues

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Alte Schule

Alte Schule

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Bought this Argentine FM Hi Power at a show a few weeks ago. Although the condition issue threw me off at first the owner let give me it a partial field strip and the barrel and internals looked good. It appeared to be holster carried a lot and fired occasionally. I collect older military issued firearms and didn't have anything in 9mm so I picked this up in a combo deal with a Italian made Beretta 84.
At the range with Winchester white box, about every 3 rounds, I had a failure to eject with the slide locked about 3/4 of the way back. To clear it I had to pull the slide completely to the rear, drop the magazine, let the slide go forward and then rack it. I also had some Remington ammo and the result was the same. I did give it a pretty good cleaning before I shot it.
Never had this happen before in any auto loader I have had as, with the exception of revolvers, I tend to buy NIB. So what do you say. New magazine for sure but what else? I understand parts are interchangeable with FN's so finding what I need shouldn't be a problem. Since I have it I want to keep it and hope it's an easy fix. BTW the Beretta is an awesome shooter with a great trigger. Very happy with it.
 

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...about every 3 rounds, I had a failure to eject with the slide locked about 3/4 of the way back....
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Are you sure that the slide is not held back by the slide lock lever? In that case, start with a new magazine - the Italian Mec-Gar are very good. If slide's rearward travel is stopped by something else, then you have to find out what is causing it - damaged recoil spring assembly, peened hammer, peened cartridge lead on the slide, insufficient barrel clearance from the frame's locking lugs... In any case slide dragging is something that is easily seen. While you are at it change all of the springs also - cheap insurance for reliable operation.
 
So is it drawing the spent case out of the chamber, still held by the extractor when the jam occurs? Is it trying to feed another round while still holding on the the spent case? I've seen that happen when an ejector is damaged or significantly out of spec.

And as an aside, I second the Mec-Gar magazines. I've got a few 15 rounders for my FEG HiPower and it runs perfectly with them.
 
Mizar: My mistake. Now that I think of it the slide was probably locked back but it still would not drop the magazine until I pulled it completely to the rear, held it there, pressed the release button and had my range buddy grip the bottom of the magazine and manually remove it.
jad0110: No, it doesn't appear that it's trying to feed another round and the spent round is still held in the chamber by the extractor. After dropping the magazine and racking the slide it clears.
I guess I should have mentioned that the serial number dates to 1965 so it's 50+ years old and has the original magazine. I have a C&R license and have mainly focused on 40 - 60's military rifles and this is my first C&R handgun.
Mec-Gar magazine on the way. Will be looking for springs when I get time this weekend.
 
Take the extractor out if its channel and clean the channel out.. over time gunk gets in there and can cause wierd malfunctions. Also, check the tip of the extractor for chipping or rounding off.
 
When things like the one you are describing happen to me, I don't have the patience to monkey with it. If it were my gun, I'd get a new Mec-Gar mag, a new recoil spring and a new extractor spring. If that didn't work I'd throw it in the river.
 
In no particular order: Check- ejector (a BHP one will probably work) Magazine, recoil spring. Sarco sells BHP parts. BTW- we had several of these where I worked in the army for training purposes. As actual BHP's wore out, these were brought in as replacements. They did well, from what I recall. Especially for guns in a training unit.
 
OK, new Wilson Combat spring kit and new extractor installed and loaded two magazines with Remington UMC 147gr ball. First magazine no problems. Second (new) magazine the last round was a stove pipe. Cleared that and reloaded the first magazine. Every other round was a failure to feed, wouldn't go into battery, and when I could get two or three to fire the last round in the magazine would not lock the slide to the rear. This was the same with both magazines and I reloaded them both twice.
So now I'm thinking I'll break out the dremel and polish the feed ramp and definitely get some different ammo. Am I missing something? I gave it a good cleaning yesterday and will do it again. Suggestions on ammo or anything else I should try are welcome.
 
So now I'm thinking I'll break out the dremel and polish the feed ramp
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Please, put the dremel away for now - feed ramps does not need to be mirror polished to work, not at all. That is a stupid internet myth that contributed to a lot of ruined barrels (and frames).
OK, new Wilson Combat spring kit and new extractor installed
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Wilson combat kit comes with two recoil springs - 18.5 lbs. extra power and 12 lbs. reduced power - which one did you put? You are using weak, low powered ammo - if you installed the extra power spring, the slide may not be making a full travel to the rear thus inducing stovepipe malfunctions. Standard spring weight is 17 lbs. and even that can be problematic with low power ammo when the spring is new and not set in.

You installed new extractor - what kind of? Did you changed the extractor spring also? Did you check the extractor hook to be shaped correctly and the hook relieved enough? On a Hi-Power with external extractor the hook is resting on the cartridge extractor groove, behind the hook you have a relief area - it shouldn't touch the rim. Right behind that you have a positioning pad that should be adjusted also for enough contact with the cartridge rim. Lastly, extractor tension check, quick & dirty way - with only the slide in hand!!! put a new, loaded, cartridge behind the hook - it should slide in with little resistance (pushing the extractor out) and when the slide is shaken the cartridge should not fall.
First magazine no problems. Second (new) magazine the last round was a stove pipe.
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I don't know what magazines you are using (you mentioned that you ordered Mec-Gars), but until every problem is solved use only new, OEM or Mec-Gar 13 round magazines. I repeat again - new, 13 rounds. Forget about 15 round magazines for now.
Check your ejector face - should be flat cut and perpendicular to the ejector in both vertical and horizontal planes. Also, the ejector should protrude into the magwell about .350".
Every other round was a failure to feed, wouldn't go into battery, and when I could get two or three to fire the last round in the magazine would not lock the slide to the rear.
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I'm not familiar with FM Hi-Powers, but if your barrel ramp looks like the top one from the picture, then you have an old "humped" ramp that is problematic with anything then a standard 115-124 grains FMJ bullet.
Image249.jpg

As much as I enjoy shooting Remington 147 gr. FMJs, those rounds are low powered and can attribute to the problem with the slide not locking. Use standard pressure ammo, 115 to 124 grains FMJ with classic ogive. Refrain from using low powered ammo, or one with bullet design that is not a classic FMJ.
 
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Mizar said:
Please, put the dremel away for now - feed ramps does not need to be mirror polished to work, not at all. That is a stupid internet myth that contributed to a lot of ruined barrels (and frames).
Wilson combat kit comes with two recoil springs - 18.5 lbs. extra power and 12 lbs. reduced power - which one did you put? You are using weak, low powered ammo - if you installed the extra power spring, the slide may not be making a full travel to the rear thus inducing stovepipe malfunctions. Standard spring weight is 17 lbs. and even that can be problematic with low power ammo when the spring is new and not set in.

You installed new extractor - what kind of? Did you changed the extractor spring also? Did you check the extractor hook to be shaped correctly and the hook relieved enough? On a Hi-Power with external extractor the hook is resting on the cartridge extractor groove, behind the hook you have a relief area - it shouldn't touch the rim. Right behind that you have a positioning pad that should be adjusted also for enough contact with the cartridge rim. Lastly, extractor tension check, quick & dirty way - with only the slide in hand!!! put a new, loaded, cartridge behind the hook - it should slide in with little resistance (pushing the extractor out) and when the slide is shaken the cartridge should not fall.
I don't know what magazines you are using (you mentioned that you ordered Mec-Gars), but until every problem is solved use only new, OEM or Mec-Gar 13 round magazines. I repeat again - new, 13 rounds. Forget about 15 round magazines for now.
Check your ejector face - should be flat cut and perpendicular to the ejector in both vertical and horizontal planes. Also, the ejector should protrude into the magwell about .350".
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Thank you for the informative response! Extractor was a Browning replacement part. Used the extra power spring when I replaced the original. At work right now and have to work through the weekend so I don't have the pistol in front of me but will follow your other suggestions within the next few days. Will order a new factory 13 rd magazine soon.
My preference in firearms are revolvers and the last 9mm auto I had was a Ruger P89 DC that I sold years ago and it was never particular about ammo. I do have other auto handguns just not a 9mm pistol which is one of the reasons I picked up the FM. I do have a CZ Scorpion EVO carbine in 9mm that will eat anything. So I just used what I had on hand. Found a box Winchester Black Talon in my ammo locker but don't think I'll be shooting those. What 9 mm standard pressure ammunition would you, or anyone else, recommend? And the dremel? Hadn't used it in years but when I found it yesterday the tools and attachments were missing. Grandkids I suspect. Thanks again.
 
How sure are you that it was only "fired occasionally?"

I had a BHP that had various FTF and FTE problems and getting a new barrel fixed it. If you have access to trying a barrel before you have to buy it, that could be worth a try.
 
cuervo said:
How sure are you that it was only "fired occasionally?"

I had a BHP that had various FTF and FTE problems and getting a new barrel fixed it. If you have access to trying a barrel before you have to buy it, that could be worth a try.
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I gave it a pretty close inspection before I bought it. Barrel looked good, no frost or rough spots, it was immaculately clean, no noticeable wear internally or anything that gave me a red flag and the price was decent. But then again I've never previously owned a Hi Power so I'm not an expert but they are very similar to the 1911 which I'm fairly familiar with.
I bought it and want to keep and if it's going to be a project gun so be it. I got some good advice here and from a couple of other places. I'm going to think about it for awhile and get back into it in a couple of months.
 
A "humped" feed ramp is indeed a limiting factor. A retired Browning service facility gunsmith took my two barrels with the humped feed ramps and straightened them. In addition however, he welded on a small addition to make the length of the feed ramp actually extend into the magazine a slight bit. Of course that addition is ground to perfectly mate with the straightened feed ramp. It absolutely prevents any type of "nose-down" attitude the cartridge can take, which is something the humped ramps are known to do. If you do have a humped feed ramp problem, it can be fixed by a true pistolsmith but definitely not something for a dremel! Good luck with your pistol. As others have said, springs, extractor and ejector properly fitted and some nice hot cartridges are my recommendation. (the first ALWAYS being a new factory magazine as said above)
 
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