First Batch of .357: Teething Problems

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WrongHanded

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I got my reloading bench set up and operational earlier than I had expected, and carefully set to work. I just returned from the range after shooting my first batch, with some mixed results, but no damage or injuries. I recorded my loading data before hand and my results afterwards.

I used some once fired nickel plated Remington .357 brass. Case length was averaging 1.283" to 1.284". I tumbled it and cleaned the primer pockets. Then I resized and primed with CCI 500 small pistol primers. I also did this with 50 Federal cases, but have yet to load those. I noticed when priming the Federal cases were harder to prime than the Remington. I say the Federal were harder because I did those second and have no other basis for comparison. The primers all appeared, upon inspection, to be seated flush to the case bottom.

I flared the cases before I had the powder, at which point I crushed one of the Remington cartridges, so I was then working with 49 cases. Less learned.

Unable to locate the Alliant 2400 powder I wanted to use, I settled for IMR 4227. The Lyman load data did not list the need for a magnum primer with this powder. The starting grain weight for a 158gr bullet was 12.2gr, which I very carefully measured by hand for each cartridge. I most definitely zeroed the scale, and did so with the pan on. The scales are RCBS 5-0-5, and I triple checked my setup.

The bullets were 158gr .357 dia, poly coated lead SWC. Unfortunately, the place I bought them had likely received them as bulk and separated them into batches of 200 with their own name on the package, rather than the manufacturer. I carefully seated each in the flare of the cases mouth and found the right die adjustment to get the case lip right to the top of the cannelure. Then crimped each to what seemed an appropriate degree.

The finished product looked pretty good. There was slight case bulge on one or two where I must not have sat the bullet quite straight enough, but otherwise they seemed uniform. I check the OAL. 1.609"-1.610". Uh-oh! Too long. I missed that important step when I seated the first bullet, and just didn't bother to check any until I was done. However, after slide a few into a GP100 and seeing approximately 1/8th of an inch between the bullet face and the end of the cylinder, I decided to try them anyway.

The first 6 went off just fine. Slow single action, no problems. But after a few cylinders I started shooting double action. Doing this 1 or 2 in each 6 failed to ignite the first time around. They all went eventually, but not all went the first time. This particular revolver has never had an issue with light strikes. It is stock, and has been flawless.

Next, the gun started jamming! The cylinder would not turn freely. Oh no, I hope I don't have crimp jump?! No. Unburned kernels of powder from the previous loads, that I had not noticed until now, we're getting caught between the ejector star and the cylinder. And also down in the crane mechanism. I was keeping the revolver pointed down during reloads and plucking the cases out by hand after pushing up slightly on the ejector rod. I stopped doing that, and the gun then worked correctly as it always has.

A little mentally worn out, I took the target out to the 25yd maximum of the range and shot the last seven as precisely as I could manage. Which wasn't very precisely at all, as it turned out. I got five within 2 inches of the bullseye. The other two were on opposite sides of the bull, both 5 inches from center. That would be my poor and rattled shooting, I'm sure.

I can't say the load was inaccurate because I wasn't at my best and my best isn't great. But the unburned powder and the failure to ignite on 1-2 of 6 double action shots, is troubling.

I have no idea what the powder issue is, but I think I might have an idea about the failure to fire. Perhaps the difference between the force needed to prime the Remington cases versus the Federal, was not because the Federal cases had tight primer pockets. Maybe it's because the Remington cases had loose pockets. Perhaps some of the primers slipped forward when struck by the firing pin, which reduced the strike on them. But after they were seated further forward and had nowhere left to move, the firing pin could set them off on a second or third strike? If the same issue occurs with the Federal cases, I will know it is either the primers, or something has changed with the gun. If the issue does not repeat with the other cases, I'll assume the pockets on these particular cases are simple too loose.

Any thoughts from anyone about the unburned powder would be appreciated. As I said, 12.2gr was the starting load. The top end is 16.1gr.

I will not be buying these particular poly coated bullets again, but can anyone comment on exceeding the cartridge OAL?
 
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I have not used that powder or bullet, but powder needs pressure to burn clean and loading with a long OAL will reduce pressure especially at the start loading data,
 
I think your misfire issues would be due to your "flush" seating of the primers. They should bottom out in the primer pocket, which *should* be just SLIGHTLY below flush. This way... "after they were (are) seated further forward and had (have) nowhere left to move, the firing pin could (can) set them off".

Unburned powder is a mystery, but I'll give it a guess....

If you add pressure, you increase your combustion. If you decrease your OAL you are increasing pressure. What was OAL supposed to be? EDIT...You beat me to it Jo Jo!
 
the case lip right to the top of the cannelure. A GP100 and seeing approximately 1/8th of an inch between the bullet face and theend of the cylinder,
This will produce the correct OAL. OK , as long as the bullet doesnt stick out of the chamber.


unburned powder
Closer to a maximum powder charge will help. Use a mag primer. When ejecting fired brass, point muzzle up to keep residue in the case, not the action. Even at near max, it will be dirty.

Primers should be flush with the case head to as much .008" below the case head.
When firing double action, firing pin velocity is less then single action.

I have loaded 4227 with 158 home cast. I am still looking for 2400 , as its the best i have found
 
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Welcome to the world of reloading. And congrats on getting your bench setup earlier than expected.

There are lots of great folks here as you're seeing. I can't offer anything that they can do better so am looking forward to learn with you via the replies.
 
I have had issues with 4227 in light loads leaving lots of unburned powder and it's pretty position sensitive.
Since you only had primer issues on double action it's likely primers were not seated fully as has been suggested and the slightly harder single action strike was able to fire them.
 
Regarding the seating of the primers, I'm not sure how I could achieve seating them any further in to the pocket with the Lee Classic Turret. I put the arm all the way up, and therefore the ram all the way down. However, as I mentioned, the Federal cases were harder (required more force) to prime than the Remington cases I used for this batch. I have nothing to compare the required force to, other than one against the other.

I can see how the position of the powder - especially because the cases were by no means full - could have an effect on how much powder burned or didn't.
 
...When ejecting fired brass, point muzzle up to keep residue in the case, not the action. Even at near max, it will be dirty.

I have only just started pulling cases with the gun pointing down, specifically to save brass. You make a great point. I'll stop doing it.
 
If you add pressure, you increase your combustion. If you decrease your OAL you are increasing pressure. What was OAL supposed to be? EDIT...You beat me to it Jo Jo!

The OAL on .357 Mag is, according to the manual, 1.590". I was at 1.609"-1.610", but the bullet was correctly seated and the cases were shorter than the maximum length. However, I can see that with a possible reduction in pressure from extra volume due to great OAL; a minimum charge in the case; and the powder likely being toward the bullet rather than the primer (due to loading the cylinder in a muzzle down position), there are a lot of factors opposing full powder ignition.

I can see how a magnum primer might increase the likelihood of igniting all the powder, but should that be necessary? The manual doesn't suggest it is.
 
Regarding the seating of the primers, I'm not sure how I could achieve seating them any further in to the pocket with the Lee Classic Turret.

I'm not terribly familiar with that setup for priming... but you should be able to feel the end of the pocket when you seat. I use a (maybe) 1960s vintage dedicated priming tool that has a threaded plunger, so you just unscrew it a little bit to seat deeper. You might have an adjustment of something like that on your press.

Adding a magnum primer will help for sure, if you want to keep your mild load. Your seating length discrepancy isn't that much, so it probably won't help that much... Now... what will really help is to give it a fuller charge. It is a Ruger, after all... :D
 
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I use magnum primers with HS-6 even though the manual does not say so in the caliber im loading BUT I get a much cleaner burn, I just dont load at max
 
- If the cartridge fit/functioned in the cylinder, it was by - definition - not too long :thumbup:
- Multiple primer strike for ignition is classic failure-to-fully-seat. Recheck the Fed cases/seating before you load them.
- (Double action also has slightly lighter hammer fall compared to single action. Switch to Federal primer if this continues)
- IMR4227 will not burn efficiently (at all) in light loads--especially lead/cast bullets)
- Since you're just starting and (shouldn't) start approaching Max w/o a little more time under you belt find some of the faster powders mentioned above
 
Not true. There's at least one design out there that if you crimp in the groove they will be too long for the .357 mag.
Good point.

As i remember, the cylinder in some models, (S&W?) is to short for some cast bullets?

But my memory is not as good as it once was. :)
 
- If the cartridge fit/functioned in the cylinder, it was by - definition - not too long :thumbup:
- Multiple primer strike for ignition is classic failure-to-fully-seat. Recheck the Fed cases/seating before you load them.
- (Double action also has slightly lighter hammer fall compared to single action. Switch to Federal primer if this continues)
- IMR4227 will not burn efficiently (at all) in light loads--especially lead/cast bullets)
- Since you're just starting and (shouldn't) start approaching Max w/o a little more time under you belt find some of the faster powders mentioned above

Hopefully I will have some 2400 by early next week. Which I will begin to use.

I will recheck the primers in the Federal cases.

Which of the powders mentioned are faster burning than IMR 4227?
 
Midrange - powders like Unique, Universal, Titegroup, N340, HS-6, AA#5 & AA#7, will work very well.
And Vihtavouri N-110 best of all for soup-to-nuts 357Mag
 
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Ah Unique! That was easy to find everywhere. Guess I should have gone with that.
 
I settled for IMR 4227
4227 likes the top end of the load data, and even then you will get some unburned granules, it's just the nature of the beast. It can be very accurate though. Bump it up and it will perform better.

Seat primers until you feel them hit the bottom of the primer pocket. 99% of the time this is below flush. If they fire on the second strike, 99.99% of the time they were not seated fully.

Roll crimp the case mouth into the middle of the cannelure or into the crimp groove on a lead or coated lead bullet. That will give you the correct OAL for that bullet and your brass. If it is too long for your cylinder, there are options, but the best one is to pick a different bullet.

Medium Roll Crimp on .357 Mag Rem 110 Gr JHP Pic 1.JPG
Medium Roll Crimp on .357 Mag Rem 110 Gr JHP Pic 2.JPG
Medium Roll Crimp on ACME 158 Gr SWC .357 Mag Pic 1.JPG
Medium Roll Crimp on ACME 158 Gr SWC .357 Mag Pic 2.JPG
Medium Roll Crimp .44 Mag - 215 Gr Magnus SWC Pic 1.JPG
Medium Roll Crimp .44 Mag - 215 Gr Magnus SWC Pic 2.JPG
 
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4227 likes the top end of the load data, and even then you will get some unburned granules, it's just the nature of the beast. It can be very accurate though. Bump it up and it will perform better.

Seat primers until you feel them hit the bottom of the primer pocket. 99% of the time this is below flush. If they fire on the second strike, 99.99% of the time they were not seated fully.

Roll crimp the case mouth into the middle of the cannelure or into the crimp groove on a lead or coated lead bullet. That will give you the correct OAL for that bullet and your brass. If it is too long for your cylinder, there are options, but the best one is to pick a different bullet.

View attachment 757989 View attachment 757990 View attachment 757991 View attachment 757992 View attachment 757993 View attachment 757994

I guess shouldn't have said cannelure because they were cast bullets. But I did have them seated like the red SWC in your picture.

I suppose I should have been more specific than saying "flush" regarding the primer seating. I simply meant that they weren't protruding. I used the full throw of the press. Not sure what happened.

It's good to know 4227 performs that way. I'll consider bumping the load up, but that's a touchy subject for a novice reloader so I'll just use my best judgement on how much.
 
I have a Lee turret press it consistently gives me high primers unless I really push the the handle back.
 
In revolvers with cast lead your bullets should be sized to fit the cylinder throats as they are or should be larger tham the bores dia. I see your bullets are .357 dia. which I think is a bit small for 38 /357 revolvers and they are probably not obturating as well which adds to the low pressure issues. My 357 revolvers with my cast lead like the bullets sized to .359" to fit the cylinder throats a cast bullet sized to .357 works fine in my 9mm but would tumble all day long in my 357's.
 
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Ruger throats tend to be small. :cuss:

WrongHand... take one of your bullets and try to push it all the way through the cylinder just using a pencil/eraser.
Bet'cha it won't go through.... o_O


.
 
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