How to remove powder coating/dura coating

You woulda had to really over do it with the duracoat to fully lock up the gun, and really have jammed the slide on for that matter.

If you didnt use undo force getting it on, id probably check for some other issue. Tho what exactly i cant think of right now. Ill look at my xd in the morning and see if i cant figgure out what might be going on.

Pictures might help also. Tho honestly not real sure.

It isn't hard to overdo it with DuraCoat. I've done it. And yup, it sure will lock up a gun or make it impossible to reassemble.

The only way to get the slide off the frame is going to be force -- press it back off the direction it went on. Being a polymer frame you'll have to be careful not to damage it. The good (sort of) thing is that it probably only grabbed at the block with the action rails.

I have found -- much to my dismay...-- that carb cleaner completely ruins a DuraCoat finish very quickly. I've had whole sheet-like flakes come off after cleaning a DuraCoated gun with carb cleaner. Don't think I'd try that first, but if you really can't get it moved off any other way, I guess it's worth a try. The down side would be semi-liquefying the coating with the cleaner and then having it harden up like glue in there...

Try using Kroil which is a super penetrating oil on the slide first--it might just allow you to work the slide.

For removal, try using acetone with a swab but take precautions--well ventilated etc.. If that doesn't work MEK is a super solvent (this stuff is really bad to breathe, touch, etc.--wear protective gear-- Jasco is a common brand available in most states).

Mechanical abrasion carefully done with needle files and steel picks might also free it up but you risk scratching the firearm up if you have a heavy hand.

Interesting ive only worked with duracoat once, didnt have any issues with fitment on that one but good to know its something to watch.
The other guys suggestion sound like the correct course of action.
The xds are pretty tough guns, i doubt youll damage the frame trying to get the slide off, but the penetrating oil probably isnt a bad idea.

Something like KG GunKote is very different in that it goes on incredibly thin. GunKote probably should go on fairly thin, but in my case it didn't. (I'll cop to operator error.) Took a lot of work to get the rails of a 1911 clean enough to slide again, and I had to sand it out to get the grip safety back in. The build was thick enough that it held the safety out far enough the thumb safety pin hole wouldn't align.

A caveat to my advice above--MEK is some nasty stuff which requires following the directions to the letter. IT just might dissolve part of your polymer frame if you are not careful--it will remove epoxy and might weaken polymer frames--test it using a swab to a small unobtrusive area first or mask your frame (if that is even possible) before using.

Why not ask the man who invented it?

https://www.lauerweaponry.com/
There's a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee, I'm sure Steve will know how to take too much off.

Aircraft stripper (removes almost anything) then TSP to neutralize the acid, then water then DRY with compressed air to get all the nooks/crannys, you can get the aircraft stripper/tsp at any home repair store or automotive store. I've done this several times

Do not skip the tsp, or you will not be able to re-coat it.

The aircraft stripper will obliterate just about anything that isnt metal so be very careful when applying. This should have been one post, sorry