Mixed brass effects oal?

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well this might be a moot point now because I have 500 RMR 124gr RN I'm going to try. I took some measurements and all seems to be right on the money with about 10-15 measured. I did have a few that read .355.5 but that probably doesn't matter. if I can get RMR for what I was paying for plated I will continue to use them. Id rather support a small business anyways. :).

On a side note extreme didn't impress me with their plating as I'm using a slight crimp with a factory crimp die and noticed when I had to pull 50rds that about 30 of them the plating was cracked or cut possibly from the LFCD.
 
Just a note.
I finished loading 50 .45 super rounds, and towards the end my oal creeped up .006
The die bushing in my press (which i had loctited in) was slowly worming its way up. Back to the drawing board for keeping the thing in place......

I dont care enough to fix the long rounds as im still well short in my barrel and mags, but as someone else said it maybe something those of us with bushinged presses need to watch.
 
Just a note.
I finished loading 50 .45 super rounds, and towards the end my oal creeped up .006
The die bushing in my press (which i had loctited in) was slowly worming its way up. Back to the drawing board for keeping the thing in place......

I dont care enough to fix the long rounds as im still well short in my barrel and mags, but as someone else said it maybe something those of us with bushinged presses need to watch.
Is my lee classic turret a bushing press? What constitutes a bushing press?
 
Bushing presses have bushings your dies screw into, that then lock into the press via interrupted thread.

Both presses have bushings, one on the lefts a hornady one on the rights my old lee. IMG_20170723_000617608-1002x1336.jpg IMG_20170723_000649825-1336x1002.jpg
 
On a side note extreme didn't impress me with their plating as I'm using a slight crimp with a factory crimp die and noticed when I had to pull 50rds that about 30 of them the plating was cracked or cut possibly from the LFCD.
Since case wall thickness average .011"+, I use .022" added to the diameter of the bullet for my taper crimp amount. So for .355" sized X-Treme bullets, I use .377" taper crimp and do not cut into the plating. And keep in mind that depending on the brand of plated bullets, 9mm bullet sizing can vary from .355" to .3565" - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...re-sized-the-same.818806/page-2#post-10567453

well this might be a moot point now because I have 500 RMR 124gr RN I'm going to try. I took some measurements and all seems to be right on the money with about 10-15 measured. I did have a few that read .355.5 but that probably doesn't matter. if I can get RMR for what I was paying for plated I will continue to use them.
RMR in-house made 115/124 gr FMJ bullets measure .3555" for me and using .377"-.378" taper crimp has worked well for me. With 115 gr FMJ loaded to 1.110"-1.115" OAL, I get essentially no bullet setback and worst bullet setback with thinner brass has been less than .001", which is excellent.

Remember? It's not the finished OAL that matters but chambered OAL and resulting bullet seating depth variation that determines accuracy. ;)

I just loaded up these mixed brass with RMR 124 gr FMJ on C-H 205 single stage using Lee dies and got the following OAL (target was 1.115") :

- CCI 1.113"
- CCI 1.113"
- FC 1.113" (No dots)
- FC 1.113" (No dots)
- SPEER 1.113"
- .FC. 1.114" (Dots)
- .FC. 1.114" (Dots)
- MFS 1.114"
- SPEER 1.114"
- BLAZER 1.115"
- BLAZER 1.115"
- PERFECTA 1.115"
- PMC 1.115"
- SPEER 1.115"
- WIN 1.115"
- WIN 1.115"
- G.F.L. 1.116"
- PERFECTA 1.116"
- PMC 1.116"
- R-P 1.116"
- R-P 1.116"
- G.F.L. 1.117"
- PERFECTA 1.117"
 
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Since case wall thickness average .011"+, I use .022" added to the diameter of the bullet for my taper crimp amount. So for .355" sized X-Treme bullets, I use .377" taper crimp and do not cut into the plating. And keep in mind that depending on the brand of plated bullets, 9mm bullet sizing can vary from .355" to .3565" - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...re-sized-the-same.818806/page-2#post-10567453


RMR in-house made 115/124 gr FMJ bullets measure .3555" for me and using .377"-.378" taper crimp has worked well for me. With 115 gr FMJ loaded to 1.110"-1.115" OAL, I get essentially no bullet setback and worst bullet setback with thinner brass has been less than .001", which is excellent.

Remember? It's not the finished OAL that matters but chambered OAL and resulting bullet seating depth variation that determines accuracy. ;)

I just loaded up these mixed brass with RMR 124 gr FMJ on C-H 205 single stage using Lee dies and got the following OAL (target was 1.115") :

- CCI 1.113"
- CCI 1.113"
- FC 1.113" (No dots)
- FC 1.113" (No dots)
- SPEER 1.113"
- .FC. 1.114" (Dots)
- .FC. 1.114" (Dots)
- MFS 1.114"
- SPEER 1.114"
- BLAZER 1.115"
- BLAZER 1.115"
- PERFECTA 1.115"
- PMC 1.115"
- SPEER 1.115"
- WIN 1.115"
- WIN 1.115"
- G.F.L. 1.116"
- PERFECTA 1.116"
- PMC 1.116"
- R-P 1.116"
- R-P 1.116"
- G.F.L. 1.117"
- PERFECTA 1.117"
how do you figure out how much taper crimp you have?
 
This is a .45 ACP, but it works the same for other auto calibers. Taper "crimp" just enough to remover the bell, or maybe .001 more. 9MM cases vary a lot in length, so adjust the crimp die so it removes the bell completely on the shortest cases, which will give a hair of inward "crimp" on the longer cases.

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This is a .45 ACP, but it works the same for other auto calibers. Taper "crimp" just enough to remover the bell, or maybe .001 more. 9MM cases vary a lot in length, so adjust the crimp die so it removes the bell completely on the shortest cases, which will give a hair of inward "crimp" on the longer cases.

index.php
this might explain why some I can feel the crimp die work and some I don't feel anything. looks like I might have to sort cases as I have 2k 9mm cases.
 
Just measure a few and pull out the short ones. Use them to set up the die. Should be much to "feel if you have it adjusted correctly.
 
I have never thought to set it with no bullet. I have always set it with a bullet. I use magnification to look at it and you can use the jaws of a caliper to see if the bell is removed by sliding them, starting a little below the case mouth, up and off of the case. They'll tell you by feel if the bell is still there. If it isn't, use the caliper and also magnification to measure any inward movement of the case mouth. Measure a little below the case mouth and then at the very edge of the case mouth.

Many people taper "crimp" too much.
 
I have never thought to set it with no bullet.
I haven't done it that way either, but....

If a question like that is asked to begin with, the "cleaner" way to do it is without a bullet...since inserting the bullet later won't change the amount of crimp, just the force needed to accomplish it.

I always did it by "feel" also, until a shooting buddy introduced me to the Redding Micrometer Crimp die. Like their Micrometer Seating die, you just dial in the amount of additional crimp you want after measuring the first round. I couldn't justify it and still crimp by feel...Taper is so much easier than Roll crimping
 
Many people taper "crimp" too much.
I've seen this too and don't quite understand it.

Now I do have to admit that I roll crimp excessively.

But I do it on purpose to:
1. Increase pressure to attain the desired power factor
2. Aid in quick reloads by preventing the cases hanging up on the edge of the chamber
3. Prevent a squib locking up the cylinder in competition by just clearing the cylinder
 
Many people taper "crimp" too much.
I've seen this too and don't quite understand it.
+1. Perhaps they are doing by feel of case mouth on their finger tips. Since case wall thickness average .011"+, I find adding .022" to the bullet diameter gives proper amount of taper crimp.

Here's RMR 124 gr FMJ sized .3555" with .378" taper crimp loaded to 1.120" OAL. Unlike Walkalong's picture, Lee die applies very gradual taper crimp with no sharp transition at the case mouth.

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Loading 124gr extreme 9mm with mixed brass and I have the die set to 1.140 but I'm getting from 1.140-1.145 being the highest. Put it back in die and don't budge so checked previous one and it was 1.142.

Any clue? I measured several pieces of brass and all the same oal so could it be the bullets are off?
Are you resizeing all of your brass ?
 
since inserting the bullet later won't change the amount of crimp, just the force needed to accomplish it.
Actually, the cannelure or crimp groove has an effect on the crimp. Leave the roll crimp die set the same and crimp different kinds of jacketed and lead bullets and one can see the differing looks of the crimp as the case mouth is affected by the cannelure or crimp groove. It may make no difference in the extra pull it takes to move the bullet, dunno.

Even with a taper crimp, a soft lead bullet would have less resistance than a thick jacketed bullet with a hard core.

Picking nits here of course. Interesting thought, setting the crimp with no bullet. Think I'll stick with the other though. :)
 
Unlike Walkalong's picture, Lee die applies very gradual taper crimp with no sharp transition at the case mouth.
Which is a proper taper "crimp", a very gradual angle. What are the measurements on that round?
 
.378" taper crimp for .3555" sized RMR 124 gr FMJ loaded to 1.120" OAL.

BTW, virtually no bullet setback when fed/chambered from magazine and less than .001" with occasional cases with thinner case wall.
 
loon, is it the bushing thats backing out, or is it the piece in the press that holds it in place? I'm running a LNL bushing setup in my classic cast and I haven't seen any creeping out of the adapter, yet..
 
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