is leupold worth it?

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for the sake of not making another thread, I need more advice.
My plan is to buy the rings and base and pulling a scope off another rifle and just make sure it will shoot before buying another scope. I have a 3-9 Nikon prostaff sitting on my old 45-70 and 2-7 Nikon prostaff on a 44 carbine. There is a large part of me that says get a leupold vx1 or maybe even a vx2 in 2-7x but that would need to wait awhile. another part of me says pull the Nikon 2-7 off the 44carbine and put a simmons shotgun scope or something on that gun as its a loaner/backup gun to save some money and run the Nikon on the new marlin.

between a Nikon prostaff and a leupold vx1/2 is it that better glass/light transmission, etc? I looked through a leupold vx1 in store and it felt lighter and looked clearer but they didn't have Nikon to compare to.

Also what size scope would you guys shoot for on the marlin?
 
To my eyes even a VX-1 has noticeably better glass than a ProStaff and it's even more noticeable in low light. But that means nothing because everyone's eyes are different. Only you can make that determination. The more I think about it I like LoonWulfs suggestion of a Burris Fullfield II 2-7x35. To my eyes they are a little better than a VX-1 and under $200.00 are the best scope I've used in low light except for the Minox ZV 3 which I wouldn't use on a 45-70 as I'd want minimum magnification to be 2x.

If using what you currently have I'd go with the ProStaff 2-7 no question.
 
I have 34 Leupolds that vary from $75 used 2x7 made in 1979 to a $1500 new 2017 2x12. The median cost is ~ $215 and is down in the used category.

When I was in college in 1974 I paid $600 for an SAE equalizer. Someone asked if it was worth it. My economics major brother answered, "If he paid that much it was worth that much."
 
cdb1 said:
To my eyes even a VX-1 has noticeably better glass than a ProStaff and it's even more noticeable in low light. But that means nothing because everyone's eyes are different. Only you can make that determination. The more I think about it I like LoonWulfs suggestion of a Burris Fullfield II 2-7x35. To my eyes they are a little better than a VX-1 and under $200.00 are the best scope I've used in low light except for the Minox ZV 3 which I wouldn't use on a 45-70 as I'd want minimum magnification to be 2x.

If using what you currently have I'd go with the ProStaff 2-7 no question.
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American made and good warranty?
 
Philippine made and good warranty. The selection of new scopes made in America is VERY thin other than Leopold and possibly some high end stuff. One model of Razor is currently assembled in the US.

I don't understand where American made suddenly comes up since your ProStaffs are Filipino.
 
cdb1 said:
Philippine made and good warranty. The selection of new scopes made in America is VERY thin other than Leopold and possibly some high end stuff. One model of Razor is currently assembled in the US.

I don't understand where American made suddenly comes up since your ProStaffs are Filipino.
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I used to buy bushnell because it was cheap and then went Nikon cause it was the next step up and still decent priced but now days id rather keep jobs in America.
 
A 50 year old Weaver K-whatever was made in El Paso Texas, still works just fine, looks at home on a Marlin, and can be had for under 100 bucks.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
I used to buy bushnell because it was cheap and then went Nikon cause it was the next step up and still decent priced but now days id rather keep jobs in America.
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Then realistically Leupold is your only option. I believe any more advice on this matter would be redundant so I'm out of here.
 
It was ~~ 1995 before I realized El Paso Weaver K-4s may or may not still work.
In 1963 a Weaver K4 was $45 and a Leupold 4X was $60.
The Leupold seems to have been a much more reliable design.
A shipped Weaver K4 is ~ $50 off ebay. I will not even use them on a $50 22.
This 4X is $20 delivered. It is brighter and more reliable
http://palmettostatearmory.com/simmons-22-mag-4x32-truplex-matte-rifle-scope-511022.html

I have a file folder box of Weaver K4s and I don't even bother to catalog them on my optics spread sheet.
 
Bought a VX-1 2-7 x 28 rim fire scope a couple of years ago. Excellent clarity and a great scope for the money. Just ordered a VX-2 3-9 x 40 for my 30-06. Made in the USA with a lifetime warranty. Can't wait to sight it in and try it out this fall!
 
anyone else? is the vx2 worth the extra money just for a lever gun in ohio?
 
my big question is why are people so lovey of Leupold? i mean if you have one and you like it then great. However I dont have a single reason why Leupold scopes would maybe out class other scopes...especially mechanically. What useful qualities do they have? If you are looking for cheap then get a fixed 10x power swfa or athlon btr. At least the turrets track and the diapoter does break.
 
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Klint Beastwood said:
my big question is why are people so lovey of Leupold? i mean if you have one and you like it then great. However I dont have a single reason why Leupold scopes would maybe out class other scopes...especially mechanically. What useful qualities do they have? If you are looking for cheap then get a fixed 10x power swfa or athlon btr. At least the turrets track and the diapeter does break.
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I'm not a fan boy for anything as I have simmons, Nikon, and vortex. I'm just trying to make the best out of this new setup. when I look through them in store the leupold looks brighter/clearer then the Nikon and vortex but that's in store.
 
also, whats the deal with the leupold scopes with like a 20mm objective? how does that let any light in?
 
it wasnt directed at anyone person, im just saying theres like some leupold fan club that likes to influence optical opinion to leupold products...and the glass it usually good...but not a fan of their scopes. I was so glad when the mk4's went away.
Commercially i've noticed a lot of luepy product line use 1 in tubes too..something else to think about.
 
buy what you like, i have used them for over 50 years in all conditions and like them, and their customer service that i have used several times and the said scopes were repaired or replaced for free in a timely manner. because of their warrenties i think they have forced other scope makers to step up to the plate and warrent their products with no fault and not original owners. their are no scope makers in the U.S. who have been makeing scopes since the 40,s with out going tits up at one time or an other. i have used 1-4x-20mm one inch tubed leupolds on hunting rifles and shotguns with no problems killing game. and tho i own and use 30mm tubed scopes, i don,t find them much better than one inch tubed scopes in normal hunting condition and they are heavier and bulkier. and as far as letting people know there is a scope maker who will honor their warrenty no matter what or who owns(first or tenth owner)it. i would be glad to help inform them if i can. their are scope repairmen who will fix your older scopes, redfields-weavers-tasco-unertl ECT, but at a very high price. eastbank.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
also, whats the deal with the leupold scopes with like a 20mm objective? how does that let any light in?
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During normal lighting condition even 20mm objectives provide plenty of light, if coatings are halfway decent.

You might loose 10-20mins of shooting light with them in dark woods, but they still provide good visibility when set at 1/1.5 which is usually the low for a 20mm ob scope.

The Brunton Eterna I have isnt a high end scope, but its bright enough i have no issues making use of the 1/2hr allowed after the sun goes down.

The Nikon 1-4x20 i had was even better.

Theres a formula for calculting exit pupil and a number that a human eye can use. I cant remember it right now but maybe look it up, and youll see that for MOST of our shooting the standard 32-40 are actually more than we can use.
That said if you do alot of hunting late, or hunt pests at night with a light the bigger obs can be worthwhile.
 
ohihunter2014 said:
also, whats the deal with the leupold scopes with like a 20mm objective? how does that let any light in?
Click to expand...

Objective diameter doesn't matter as much as exit pupil. A 2x20mm will appear brighter than a 10x50mm, and way moreso than a 22x56mm.

Scopes are not funnels. Light comes in, is compressed, inverted twice, and then exposed to the eye. Brightness is largely about how much makes it through each lens - which is glass and coating quality - and how much the image is compressed as it is released to the eye. Any time you get down around 3mm or less exit pupil, things are getting rough. A 20mm can go as high as 7-8x before the wheels come off, which is more magnification than most of these straight tube scopes offer.
 
Varminterror said:
Objective diameter doesn't matter as much as exit pupil. A 2x20mm will appear brighter than a 10x50mm, and way moreso than a 22x56mm.

Scopes are not funnels. Light comes in, is compressed, inverted twice, and then exposed to the eye. Brightness is largely about how much makes it through each lens - which is glass and coating quality - and how much the image is compressed as it is released to the eye. Any time you get down around 3mm or less exit pupil, things are getting rough. A 20mm can go as high as 7-8x before the wheels come off, which is more magnification than most of these straight tube scopes offer.
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how do i figure out what the exit pupil is?
 
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