.308 AR - Wrong Primer - Blew Firing Pin Out of Bolt Carrier

My box of 5,3 lr has a line that says"Primers designated with the mark NEROXIN® are neither erosive non corrosive."
The SP primer box pictured says NEROXIN on it, maybe the yellow black box is older?

Englishmn said:

My box of 5,3 lr has a line that says"Primers designated with the mark NEROXIN® are neither erosive non corrosive."
The SP primer box pictured says NEROXIN on it, maybe the yellow black box is older?

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The black box is definitely not older. I have some of both and the green/yellow box was from a previous order.

So we are at 3 different types of primers now, Plain SE and NEROXIN.

Interesting on the SPs, one OK for 9mm but not .40 S+W?
I can see a different one for .357 Sig higher pressures but unless I am looking at my book wrong ( i am going blind and getting senile) .40 is not really running higher pressures than 9mm.


My old SPs came in the Green and yellow box, newer ones in the Black boxes.
Both seem to shoot the right at about the same velocity.
On the back of the new "sexier" Black and Gold box the last ones I got from Cabelas show as SBPR - SP
(they have to be better than the ones in the old plain green and yellow box right)

Not sure from the chart but I wonder if the number after boxer/ is cup thickness.

OP post your powder charge PLEASE! I can't believe that you don't understand that your problem is pressure related and not totally primer related. A failed primer CAN NOT cause your firing pin to exit the bolt carrier. Pressure can. You have a 20" barrel and getting 2675 and they show 2728 with 4" more barrel. You are using a different case, different primer, different barrel twist and possibly a different bullet and you continue to think its a primer problem. Read a loading manual and reevaluate your load practices. If you continue hastily you may wind up damaging your rifle or yourself or both.

Load Master said:

......I understand that some may put me in a category of "risk taker", and there maybe some truth in that. ....

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All reloaders take some measure of risk.

While I believe it is right that you question the suitability of components, and appreciate you providing other reloaders information that these S&B primers were once not deemed suitable for .308 Win, it is up to you to use your judgement on whether you had an overly hot load. (Perhaps the SE version was just a hotter primer, for a cartridge they anticipated would see ball powders rather than stick powders...for all those cartridges have some background in being used by the military).

Take a good look at that picture on post #8. As HankC noted, (#9) you can clearly see the ejector marks.

Many of us have been handloaders for several decades, and have offered you well meaning opinions that you should read the warning signs. (Did you measure the case head for expansion? I'd bet that tells a tale....)

We all have egos, and at times, I'm sure we're all convinced we're right. The smartest among us, however, pay heed to the warning signs, recheck our data, and question our assumptions. The experience you just had is a wakeup call.

No reply needed. I hope for the sake of a fellow reloader you question your priorities with this load. Velocity should be, at most, 3rd on your priority list, behind safety and accuracy.

Load Master,

I don't think anyone is trying to be anything but constructive in seeking more info on your loads.

How much powder were you putting into these loads. I believe the consensus is that it was probably too much, and while the primer may have contributed, it wasn't the primary factor. They just look way too hot.

I'm curious because all info is an opportunity for me and anyone else to learn something.

PS. I've used CCI LR Magnum primers in a .308 load with a stiff dose of 44.0g of varget and 168g Bergers and got no appreciable difference in velocity or pressure signs compared to standard primers.

Dudedog,

Not sure from the chart but I wonder if the number after boxer/ is cup thickness.

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From the chart in the OP, Yes, I would agree that the number is likely primer cup thickness. The 4,4 and 5,3 are the diameters for the Small and Large primers respectively.

Found this looking around doesn't list s&b as it's 20+ year old article but was interesting.

Maybe someone could measure the different s&b primers.

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

Thanks Walkalong for the pic of the "old" box. I didn't have any left about but that pretty much confirms they are the same beasts.

I use S&B LR primers with my 7mm SAUM heavy gun. I use near-max loads of 7828SSC with a 180 grain bullet which yield 3000 fps. Quickload estimates the pressure to be 64k. I have no primer issues at all. I use S&B not because they are cheap, but because they produce very low ES.

Just a counter-point to the theme of this thread that seems to presume something wrong with S&B primers.

I expect the real issue is: a combination of slight over-pressure, a little too fast of a powder, and a poorly shaped firing pin.

Englishmn said:

Found this looking around doesn't list s&b as it's 20+ year old article but was interesting.

Maybe someone could measure the different s&b primers.

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

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That chart seems to indicate that the OP is in fact using the "correct" primer, which seems to confirm that there are other issues in play.

Load Master, did you get a reply from S&B or did I miss your report?

OK thanks.

Load Master said:

How does it "confirm" when it doesn't even include any Sellier & Bellot products? What am I missing here?

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You are correct, it does not mention S&B, however it does show that a magnum primer in a cartridge generating over 55,000 psi may be appropriate. I'm still amazed you think just a primer caused the damage.