Stuck Minie Ball 150 years old...

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this advice was past on to me by Curator and is the way I'm going to do it but I'm giving my barrel 1 or 2 more weeks of soak time in Kroil
the barrel has been on for over 150 years I'm in no rush
Having removed many musket breech plugs, I want to pass along some tips. If you don't have a barrel vise, you can make do with a sturdy bench vise and a couple of hardwood blocks. Oak or Elm work best but any non splitting hard wood will do. Carve a channel to roughly fit the barrel in two blocks. Obviously this should be slightly undersize. Find some powdered rosin (Sporting goods stores have it for baseball pitchers) Before clamping the barrel in the blocks, dust the inside of the channel with the rosin to make a non-slip surface. I often use a large pipe wrench on the plug itself but first protect the sides of the breech plug with 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide aluminum strips so I don't damage it. Sometimes I add a 3 foot pipe to the wrench handle for additional leverage. Make sure everything is secure before applying major force. It will come loose eventually. Sometimes another week of soaking in penetrating oil is also necessary. If the gun is still loaded, the powder charge can be picked out with an awl, and any projectile will be easily pushed out the breech end.

Should you find a plug of cement in your barrel once you remove the breech plug, don't try to force it out the muzzle. Find a 3/8 masonry drill and drill down the center of the plug. Once you've drilled through, the plug can be broken apart with a hardened punch and hammer and removed in pieces with no damage to the barrel. You may find the bore corroded where the plug was.

Good luck with your project!
 
Measure the OD of the barrel near the breech plug. Drill a hole to that diameter into the wood. Then cut it in half on a bandsaw. Voila! Barrel blocks.

I would not use visegrips. Rice Barrel Company makes a breech plug tool that takes a pipe cheater bar.
 
You said in an earlier post that it was working briefly. Does this mean that the blockage began to move? If so, I would try shoving it back down the barrel again, and work it back and forth. Any movement at all means that you broke it free.
 
My update thus far:

I have created my barrel vice ( about 5 inches of 4X4, drilled and cut in half, then a little extra material removed so pressure all goes on wood to barrel contact), clamped 4 C-Clamps on as tight as possible, then tried to work the breech plug lose. The barrel spun in the vice. I got pine pitch (couldn't find pitching rosin, but I do believe that it has more friction than rosin) and put that in the vice. It still spun in the vice.

So now I am working on soaking the barrel in transmission fluid/acetone. It works similiarly to kroil, but requires half the force required to work lose. And for that matter only a quarter of PB Blaster. Here is where I got my information on that:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/

Figured maybe I'm just expecting the vice to hold up against more torque, so if less torque is required because of penetrating lubricant, then that problem is solved
 
You said in an earlier post that it was working briefly. Does this mean that the blockage began to move? If so, I would try shoving it back down the barrel again, and work it back and forth. Any movement at all means that you broke it free.

Believe it or not it wasn't firmly seated when I got it (or an additional bullet wasn't...) it moved about 2 inches down when I hit it originally with the ram rod. My gunsmith claimed he got it to move a bit and then his tool broke off. There isn't anything attached in there currently to the obstruction so I can't move it. Good point though, gives me hope that if the breech plug doesn't come lose, I can easily pour a few grains of powder in the drum, put the nipple back on, and snap a cap on it and it should come out easily
 
Get another block of wood. Drill a little smaller. Get rosin.
 
I still cant get my nipple to unscrew in my barrel giving it some more soak time I may have to drill it out and retap it
 
You can heat the area slightly,with out doing any harm, just enough to sizzle the penetrating oil then cooling it with more oil. This will help draw in the oil.
 
Ok I'm going to try some of your home brew 50/50 mix a try transmission fluid/acetone I have my barrel soaking in it now
 
Luckydawg, did you have any trouble with separation of your transmission fluid and acetone mixture? When I mixed up a batch, the two fluids separated pretty quickly, even after repeated shaking of the container.
 
Yes I did But after and set for a while it seemed to be OK I kept pouring it from container to container to help mix it up
 
Supposedly the acetone is supposed to act as the penetrant and carry in the ATF which is the lubricant. They don't really mix so shaking it up is required
 
Mix up some jb weld....want enough for both halves of blocks
Mark block with alignment lines in two places.

Wrap the barrel with several layers of Saran Wrap.....more is better

Spread mixed jb weld on each half of blocks.....extra will help

Put 3 or 4 pieces of Saran Wrap over each half of jb weld/block

Lay in barrel work down into jb weld on first half, put on other half

Clamp halves together

Let dry

Barrel should not move and Saran Wrap will let each half come apart

And protect barrel
 
Would taking your barrel with the grease zerk in it to an oil change place with an air powered grease gun help?

I don't know and am asking.
 
Would taking your barrel with the grease zerk in it to an oil change place with an air powered grease gun help?

I don't know and am asking.

My decades of experience maintaining various heavy equipment says no to the air powered grease gun. If the air pressured one did not work, went to the hand pump, which usually worked. If that did not work disassembly was required.( Getting off topic here. )
4v50 Gary said check on the power of hydraulics!
 
Well, you're not going to get the breech open with a pair of vice grips. ;) The breech isn't an interlocking one if made back then, and it is possible that it will come loose. That's assuming that since it was made it wasn't unbreeched in the past, and messed with in some way that has made unbreeching a problem now. I'm surprised the grease gun technique didn't work as that's a pretty tried and true method. Sorry to hear that. If you haven't really tried it, or if the fitting didn't work look at refreshing the threads, and try again. If doing it the manual way...., First, you need to mark the barrel where the breech plug and barrel meet, so that when you return the plug you have it aligned exactly at the same spot where it was when you began the unbreeching. I've never done it without a barrel vice, and I used a very large, high quality adjustable wrench, with a steel bar welded to the handle for more leverage, to open the breech on a couple vintage British muskets, and a couple repro Bess. Good luck.

LD
 
If all else fails----

Carefully drill out the breech plug from the rear, making sure not to touch the threads. Work slowly and do not get the plug hot enough to ignite any powder that may be in there. Keep body parts away from both ends of the barrel. Once you have a hole through, soak the "stuff" with oil and use a 1/4" drill rod to drive everything out of the barrel.

Just drilling the plug out might relieve tension and allow the plug to be removed easily. If not, gradually enlarge the hole in the breech plug until only the threads remain, then pick them out. At that point you can examine the barrel to see if is too worn for further use. If it is OK, replace the breech plug with a new one and you are good to go. If things are rusted/worn enough to be dangerous if fired, weld the flash hole shut to deactivate the old gun and hang it on the wall.

Jim
 
Well I give up I had my E-Z-out snap off in the nipple hole I'm just going to put it back together and put next to my fireplace
 
Well I give up I had my E-Z-out snap off in the nipple hole I'm just going to put it back together and put next to my fireplace
think about that for a min. loaded black powder gun next to or above a fire place! you can get a breach wrench form S &S . also check the Nssa sight for someone local. to do it for you. it can also be sent to bobby Hoyte or any of the other Nssa Guys. I personally would not want it hanging around in that state. either fix it or sell it to some that will. But that's just me.
 
I would not use vise grips either. They'll eat up the breech plug and second, being short, won't have the torque.
 
Sorry for not updating you guys, I'm in the process of moving. So I haven't tried anything new yet. My problem isn't that I can't get enough torque on the barrel, it's that it is spinning in the homemade barrel vice I have made. I'm thinking about doing the saran wrap and JB weld idea, except using duct tape instead of saran wrap to make sure the barrel doesn't just spin in the saran wrap.
 
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