How to make my S&W 442 more civil?

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"However, small snubs are the hardest guns to master (that is true for everyone, though for those who do devote a lot of time to the platform, they will get better, but that is true of all guns).

I'm OK with my 2" 461 and 85 (but no where near what I do with just about everything else). I'm pretty good with the 3" 461. The 442 is the toughest of my guns.

The short sight radius, the black on black sights, and the heavy recoil leading to slow follow up shots makes it far from ideal for accuracy (my aging and diabetic eyes don't help with my overall accuracy with that gun either).


Painting the sights will help with the first shot, though won't do all that much for the follow up shot speed.'

Which are all of the points I have made.

"That is where the laser may come in, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much and rely on a technological solution (though, it may be better than nothing).

As for the T-grip, they cost more than most of the grip options I'm considering (and I don't really like the looks)."

You will get a heck of deal if you can get laser grips cheaper than the T-Grip.

I understood your post to mean you were only interested in making it easier to shoot your 442. I missed the part that attractive grips are also important.

I have a love-hate relationship with J-frame revolvers. As a young police officer they were the most common choice for back-up and off-duty carry. Now my J-frames are niche guns. The Taurus M85 is a outdoors gun primary for use when fishing. Stainless steel and a mix of shotshells and target semi-wadcutter loads deal effectively with snakes, turtles and varmints.

The Taurus M941 22 Magnum is very useful on the farm for dispatching pests.

Both of them wear oversize rubber finger groove grips made by Taurus. Since I am on the large size (my edc is Beretta 92) I can conceal them in a iwb holster.
 
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So, right now I'm leaning towards one of three options (with a fourth wild card):

  1. Pachmayr wood. They look good, the wood won't snag on anything, and they are bigger and more hand filling so they should be more comfortable. They may be too big though for pocket carry.
  2. Pachmayr Compac Professional. A bit smaller (10%) than the Compac, and will hopefully work fine for pocket carry, but still more hand filling and comfortable than what I have.
  3. The S&W rubber boot grips that are currently standard on most J-frames. They will be a bit more hand filling than what I have and hopefully more comfortable. They will definitely still work as a pocket gun.
  • Wild Card: Since my current grips are about perfect for concealment (just terrible for comfort), I may do something I usually avoid...Keep them for carry, but use something more comfortable when I go to the range. Even if my hand position is a little different, the ability to practice more with the same gun is a good thing. It seems to me this would be preferable than shooting only a cylinder or two out of the 442 and getting most of my snub practice with the steel framed 85 or getting a .22 "trainer" like a lot of people do.
Right now, I'm leaning towards buying two of the three main options (the Pachmayr wood and one of the rubber options) and testing to see how they work in my pocket. If they both work in my pocket, I'll see which is better at taming the recoil at the range. If none have an acceptable blend of concealment and comfort, then I'll consider the wild card.

As for ammo changes, I didn't make it to the range this weekend to test options. Hopefully I will either tomorrow or Tues.
 
In my experience Ergo Delta grips are both concealable and improved my shooting. Ugly for sure, but they kept my grip high and made the gun more natural to point and easier to shoot well. Not for everyone, but worth considering.
 
Which are all of the points I have made.
My apologies. I misread your post as implying I was new and didn't have experience on my snubs.

I have a love-hate relationship with J-frame revolvers.
I understand that. I periodically drop them from all CCW duties and think about selling them because in so many ways they are so impractical (horrible at the range, uncomfortable to practice, thus I never get as good with them as I am with just about everything else), but then I can't because they are in so many other ways so practical (they are so easy to conceal, they are good at multiple missions, they are good "specialist" guns). Because they are usually less finicky than an auto, they make great guns for ankle carry (it can get pretty dirty there), they print in a natural lump of shapes in a pocket instead of looking like the sharp angular features of a gun. I'm not a fan, but they are so good at certain duties I keep coming back to them.
 
My spring / summer EDC gun is a Performance Center model 640 Pro Series J-Frame 357 Magnum. I put Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips on mine. They make heavy magnums (180 grain RNFP-GC) "do-able". However, I prefer to carry 158 grain JHP 38 Special as my antipersonnel loads...they shoot true to the fixed sights (POI=POA) in this revolver, and the grips make these 38 loads pleasant. Magnums are carried for critters...I live in the woods........and I pack every day. I even have a 351C in the hip pocket of my PJ bottoms, as I sit in my recliner right now.

I dress around my carry gun. For me it makes more sense to adapt what I'm wearing to accommodate my weapon rather than try to make the gun fit around my clothes, so I don't get the so-called perceived concealment issue with comfortable, rubbber grips. I ain't no flip-flop, short britches hanging around my crouch kinda guy... not how I roll. Light vest or some sorta coat for me...just sayin'....

I've also worn both a model 386 NG with Pachmayr Presentation grips and a model 69 with the Hogue Tamer grips to town (bank, grocery store, Walmart, Home Depot, etc.) with no "printing" issues with these grips either. Used OWB open top pancakes on a well worn Galco gun belt. For me, rubber grips are a non-issue. Sure, you can occasionally get a bit more drag, but I practice drawing daily, so there are no surprises. Loose clothing also tends to glide better over the grips and not hang up. As I get older, my hands are loosing muscle tone and natural padding, so I really like the shock absorbing benefits of the squishy Diamond Pros.

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These are the Diamond Pros by Pachmayr. They really soak up recoil on a steel frame gun.
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The rear is soft right at the top, where I maintain a high grip to better control muzzle flip.
 
All of my .38 snubbies have the least perceived recoil with non +P rounds with 148 to 158 grain bullets. They may shoot a couple inches high on paper, but that doesn't bother me at defensive ranges.
 
I truly believe that with the right grips and practice, one can control the lightweight j frames. Nobody would ever mistake me for a tough guy, but the alloy j frames don't bother me at all with 125 grain to 135 grain +p ammo.

I'm lucky in that the factory grips used on current models fit me perfectly (I can get half a pinky on them). I've shot them enough that I've learned how to control the recoil. I've shot 500 rounds in two days, about half PMC 130 grain target, half various +p hollow points, without any pain whatsoever. If I were using a grip that didn't fit me right, I doubt I could do that.

Keep hunting for the right grips and keep shooting. Best of luck.
 
Pachmayer rubber grips & standard velocity ammo tames the model 640 for me. There are several designs of Pachmayer rubbers being made, so find which one fits your hand best.
 
Cheap fix for my 642, ordered set of grips from Taurus. 9 bucks + shipping. Don't like their guns, but the compact grip was just the ticket. Covered back strap, no added length and a little more under the guard. More of a vinyl not sticky rubber.
 
First, I love snubbies. I bought my first, a M-60 in 1977 and have always owned at least one S&W J frame (60, 49, 640, 642 & 639) and have taken the time to learn how to shoot them well. They have been backup and my only off duty weapon for 40 years. For carry I prefer a boot style grip (Altamont) but if I'm going to be shooting alot of rounds, I learned a long time ago to put a set of Pachmayr Compacs on. if only for the trip to the range. Compacs are a harder rubber and not nearly as grippy on your clothing as Hogues and actually work quite well for pocket carry in cargo shorts.
In my early days in LE we had to qualify with our off duty weapons on the same course of fire as out duty weapons. That meant 60 round PPC course all the out to 50 yards. Since a 5 shot revolver meant more reloading times were lenient. But you still had to shoot 18 rounds from 50 yds!
 
Be sure to hold HIGH on the grip. Many are naturally inclined to hold low on the grip, but that gives the gun more leverage to flip the muzzle upward, with recoil. How high? The web of the hand should be even with rear corner of the grip frame, perhaps even overlapping just a bit. Yes, that high. There is no hammer spur to interfere with this high hold, so do it.

Be sure to hold TIGHTLY onto the grip. Better to be pushed than kicked.

This high grip will cause pain! Yes that's good advice for 99% of all handgun shooting, but it doesn't work well for me with boot grips on a j frame. Try a low grip with your finger straight to the trigger. The muzzle will rise but the energy wont shock your hand. I learned this from big 44 bisley mags. High grips work great with my pachmayers, not so much with uncle mikes or wood.
 
I haven't made it to the range yet. I have some 158gr LFN Cowboy Action loads (Winchester) to try. Being flat nose they should give a good fairly sharp full caliber hole so worst case they can be a carry load, so we'll see how they go. I have some WWB 130gr FMJ, I'm buying some 148gr target wadcutters when I get to the range and I'll try a different brand of 158gr (or possibly 125gr) JHP +P (or not +P if they have it) than my usual (for a .38) Speer Gold Dot and see how they work with the factory/Eagle grips. I'll see if I can get an acceptable feel (and a baseline since it's been a while since I've shot it) from them. I'm about to order the wood/laminated Pachmayr to see how they work out and I'll probably get to test them early to mid week next week.

I'm still deciding on which rubber grips to try. Since so many have been using the Taurus grips, how much modification did they need? My Taurus 85 is older (1991) so it didn't have the rubber factory grips, it came only with aftermarket Butler Creek/Uncle Mikes style combat grips (full hand grip) and I added some Uncle Mikes or Butler Creek (don't remember which package it had anymore) boot grips. Maybe I'll try those on my 442 and if they work, I'll try my heavier Taurus with the S&W grips that I don't like on the 442 (why not save money when possible).
 
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