Ruger 10/22 barrel install help

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MidRoad

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Hey guys im looking to reinstall the factory barrel on 10/22. Does the vblock that retains the barrel automatically square it up for iron sight use or is there a trick to follow.I noticed a notch in the barrel where it slides into the receiver as well,does that have a particular orientation? Also, anyone know the torque specs on the vbock?

About ten years ago in high school I put a tacticool stock and bull barrel on th .22 and it had sat in my safe since. This was my first rifle and im just trying to get it back to original. Cant find the dovetail sight anywhere in the hous unfortunately .:(
 
The barrel should be self aligning if you take care while tightning the Allen screws. If you are concerned in the future, put small alignment marks on the barrel and receiver. I'll bet they come back in line every time you r/r the barrel.
 
The barrel should be self aligning if you take care while tightning the Allen screws. If you are concerned in the future, put small alignment marks on the barrel and receiver. I'll bet they come back in line every time you r/r the barrel.

Kind of figured that. Thanks for the confirmation .
 
Also in my teenage stupidity I managed to mess up the aluminum receiver threads (don't even remember doing it). Any ideas what I can cap them with since there is practically no threads left. I ordered a new dove tail mount sight so I'm not concerned it being able to mount a scope again.
 
Heli-Coil
easiest way to fix threads. You will have to figure out what your thread size is... a good hardware store, or machine shop can tell you by matching the bolt. These are used in most newer GM aluminum oil pans to hold the oil plug, designed for 50 or more torque downs to 18-29 FT LBs or so, spark plugs in aluminum heads and so on. They are pretty easy to install yourself.
 
Heli-Coil/timesert
easiest way to fix threads. You will have to figure out what your thread size is... a good hardware store, or machine shop can tell you by matching the bolt. These are used in most newer GM aluminum oil pans to hold the oil plug, designed for 50 or more torque downs to 18-29 FT LBs or so, spark plugs in aluminum heads and so on. They are pretty easy to install yourself.
 
Heli-Coil
easiest way to fix threads. You will have to figure out what your thread size is... a good hardware store, or machine shop can tell you by matching the bolt. These are used in most newer GM aluminum oil pans to hold the oil plug, designed for 50 or more torque downs to 18-29 FT LBs or so, spark plugs in aluminum heads and so on. They are pretty easy to install yourself.
I've used heli coils at work when people mess up the spark plugs threads and don't want to pay for a new head. The kind that cuts a thread than you spike it seem to hold the best. Didnt realize they went that tiny. Thanks!
 
I've used heli coils at work when people mess up the spark plugs threads and don't want to pay for a new head. The kind that cuts a thread than you spike it seem to hold the best. Didnt realize they went that tiny. Thanks!
yea a look on amazon showed some small sizes. Cant guanretee they do, but if they don't, you can go a size up probably. I know about these because the engine on my Buick 355 wildcat had those aluminum heads. They say filling the cylinder with shaving cream at bottom of the stroke, then turning it over with the ignition disconected gets the metal out without any damage.
 
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yea a look on amazon showed some small sizes. Cant guanretee they do, but if they don't, you can go a size up probably. I know about these because the engine on my Buick 355 wildcat had those aluminum heads. They say filling the cylinder with shaving cream at bottom of the stroke, then turning it over with the ignition disconected gets the metal out without any damage.
Alright thanks again I'll have to look. I was thinking about just going up a size and re taping it if I had to. And good idea with the shaving cream.
 
The V-block will not automatically square up the barrel.

There's no reason to mess with heli-coils. Just drill and tap for the next size up, #8's, which are better anyway. Be sure you get the typical thread pitch used in firearms of 8-40, rather than the hardware store 8-32. You can get the drill, tap and plug screws from Brownells.
 
The V-block will not automatically square up the barrel.

There's no reason to mess with heli-coils. Just drill and tap for the next size up, #8's, which are better anyway. Be sure you get the typical thread pitch used in firearms of 8-40, rather than the hardware store 8-32. You can get the drill, tap and plug screws from Brownells.
Thanks Craig. Barrel seemed to square up ok, I'm going to use barrel mounted sights so it should be close enough for tree rats up to 50 yards.i may end up pulling it back off to push the dove tail sights out . I did post another thread about installing the sights do you usually put oil on the dove tails when installing them? Or leave dry? I put light coat of oil under rings bases,pinned sights etc..just not sure about dove tails
 
Once the V-block starts putting rearward pressure on the barrel, it'll be in whatever position it was in. I always get them nearly snug and then square up the barrel. Of course, if there are no sights, all you have to do is line up the extractor groove.

It wouldn't hurt, might help. Just be sure to go in and out from the right side.
 
Once the V-block starts putting rearward pressure on the barrel, it'll be in whatever position it was in. I always get them nearly snug and then square up the barrel. Of course, if there are no sights, all you have to do is line up the extractor groove.

It wouldn't hurt, might help. Just be sure to go in and out from the right side.

Easy enough,appreciate the input,thanks!
 
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