Universal decapping dies

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I have both the RCBS and Lee universal decapping dies. I have been using them for about a year. This allows me to decap all brass first in one batch. I can then clean the cases and primer pockets (if necessary) before using my resizing and other dies. I have come to believe this will provide better care for my reloading dies and maintain them in better condition.
 
gojones said:
I have both the RCBS and Lee universal decapping dies. I have been using them for about a year. This allows me to decap all brass first in one batch. I can then clean the cases and primer pockets (if necessary) before using my resizing and other dies. I have come to believe this will provide better care for my reloading dies and maintain them in better condition.
Click to expand...

Do you have a preference for one over the other? If so, why?

Thx.
 
Ok folks so here is a look at 3 universal decapping dies Lee, RCBS and Mighty Armory



Let me know what you think of the 3 and if the mighty armory is something you would pay $59 for?
 
First decapping die I ever bought was the Lee. Thousands and thousands of cases later it still does the deed. I've replaced a couple of pins over those years. Still going strong. I think you just lost patience with it, and that's fine.

I lost patience with a beeping smoke detector, changed batteries, few minutes later beeping. I checked the other rooms on the same floor. Definitely the same one. Replaced battery again. Few mins later, beeping. Took it off its mount, out to garage mashed it to bits.

Feeling satisfied, I again heard the beeping! Yup, it was the carbon monoxide detector in the same room!

With the Lee, only problems I've had were with crimped LC brass. I learned to tap it once, then go through if it budged. If it held tight, another tap and then through. Occasionally, the pin rises. Loosen, tap down, tighten with two wrenches.

Russellc
 
RussellC said:
First decapping die I ever bought was the Lee. Thousands and thousands of cases later it still does the deed. I've replaced a couple of pins over those years. Still going strong. I think you just lost patience with it, and that's fine.

I lost patience with a beeping smoke detector, changed batteries, few minutes later beeping. I checked the other rooms on the same floor. Definitely the same one. Replaced battery again. Few mins later, beeping. Took it off its mount, out to garage mashed it to bits.

Feeling satisfied, I again heard the beeping! Yup, it was the carbon monoxide detector in the same room!

With the Lee, only problems I've had were with crimped LC brass. I learned to tap it once, then go through if it budged. If it held tight, another tap and then through. Occasionally, the pin rises. Loosen, tap down, tighten with two wrenches.

Russellc
Click to expand...
RussellC
You are correct I have the patience of a squirrel, after that Video I put the lee die back in the press to try to get the decapping rod out and I tore the die to shreds and it still wouldn't come out.

the Lee die is $12.59 on Amazon
the RCBS die is $15.52 and looks like its a better quality product I would choose this if the extra $3 isn't a factor for you!
Dom
 
Thanks for the video! Very cool.

I believe in paying top dollar when their's commensurate value. But good golly $60 for a decapping die? I'm trying to think what could be of such great value to justify that price. I understand you said it's built like a tank. But it's not like a decapping die takes all that much stress. Now if someone wanted to sell a match grade sizing die or something like that.....now you're talking some sort of capability that might require that type of cost. I could see maybe paying $25-30 for some die if it had some cool capability. But $60?!

I may get the RCBS just because they've been so darn good to me. Although the comment about the Lyman was interesting.

And BTW, maybe it's too late, but do you have any Kroil oil? When I couldn't get the collet loosened on my Lee I think I put some Kroil on the threads and that helped it come loose.

Thanks again the for the vid!

OR
 
My Lee dies are slowly being replaced by the Redding Competition series dies. That Mighty Armory piece looks interesting. In the mean time, the Lee decapper stands mounted in a Lee single stage Classic Breech lock press and keeps chugging along.

With tools, get what works for you, if necessary, cry once and buy the best. Nothing is more disheartening to me than working with a tool that isnt doing what I want it to do when I want it to do it....which was bought because "it was a bargain." Even expensive decapping dies are reasonable, so get what isnt frustrating. Life is short.

Russellc
 
Schwing said:
I still use the lee universal decapping die. The only decapping pins I have had issues with were either because I was trying to decap military crimped brass or, on my old pro 1000, because the press wasn't indexing properly and needed adjustment.

I switched to these pins:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018V7L3C2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't so much as had to touch the die since.
Click to expand...

I've broken a couple pins on berdan cases. and I broke a pin dropping a die one time (DOH!) Never knew about the fancy replacement pins though. they intrigue me. But I might try these. look identical and half the price of the squirrel daddy ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-3-VGI-D...ie-/331610759383?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
 
Personally, I can't see paying $60 for a decapping die. But that may just be me.

I have yet to break a pin in my Lee die. I have the die screwed down in the press as far as it will go. What this does is shorten up the handle stroke, and takes away some of the mechanical advantage of the press. I can feel the resistance much better, which allows me to instantly notice a berdan case, or off-center flash hold. I've done (guessing) around 30k of primers so far, no broken pins, although I do have a spare just in case.

gojones said:
I have both the RCBS and Lee universal decapping dies. I have been using them for about a year. This allows me to decap all brass first in one batch. I can then clean the cases and primer pockets (if necessary) before using my resizing and other dies. I have come to believe this will provide better care for my reloading dies and maintain them in better condition.
Click to expand...

I decap all my brass on my Lee Classic Turret press. The primers (and residue) drop straight down through the ram, none of the primer residue gets on the outside of the ram, so I hardly ever have to clean/lube the press. My Dillon 550 press, since I don't decap at all on that press now (I have the decapping pin removed from all my sizing dies) does not get dirty from the residue. Less maintenance, and I believe as you do that it helps maintain everything in better working order.
 
otisrush said:
Thanks for the video! Very cool.

I believe in paying top dollar when their's commensurate value. But good golly $60 for a decapping die? I'm trying to think what could be of such great value to justify that price. I understand you said it's built like a tank. But it's not like a decapping die takes all that much stress. Now if someone wanted to sell a match grade sizing die or something like that.....now you're talking some sort of capability that might require that type of cost. I could see maybe paying $25-30 for some die if it had some cool capability. But $60?!

I may get the RCBS just because they've been so darn good to me. Although the comment about the Lyman was interesting.

And BTW, maybe it's too late, but do you have any Kroil oil? When I couldn't get the collet loosened on my Lee I think I put some Kroil on the threads and that helped it come loose.

Thanks again the for the vid!

OR
Click to expand...
I tried some liquid wrench on the threads and that didnt work, Put it back in the vise and totally mangled the entire die, now its sitting in the trash can. With the two new dies it wasnt worth the effort to salvage it
 
TheDomFather said:
I put the lee die back in the press to try to get the decapping rod out and I tore the die to shreds and it still wouldn't come out.
Click to expand...
TheDomFather said:
I tried some liquid wrench on the threads and that didnt work, Put it back in the vise and totally mangled the entire die, now its sitting in the trash can.
Click to expand...
Using two proper wrenches and the die rigidly mounted you ended-up with a mangled die assy? Wow.

Mine is certainly TIGHT but I cannot imagine it ever being that tight unless, maybe, it was heavily rusted.
 
GBExpat said:
Using two proper wrenches and the die rigidly mounted you ended-up with a mangled die assy? Wow.

Mine is certainly TIGHT but I cannot imagine it ever being that tight unless, maybe, it was heavily rusted.
Click to expand...

Pin would pop up anytime I hit a crimped primer, tightened pin still popped up, tightened some more pin still popped up, tightened it some more worked great for a few hundred rounds, bent the pin could not loosen it even in a vice with large wrenches, its in the trash and using my mighty armory which seems to be indestructible thus far!
 
Oh the joys of crimped primers.
Glad you found a solution that works for you.
I never had a problem getting a pin tight enough in the Lee die not to move. Mangled a couple Lee pins with some off center flash holes in GFL brass because I had them to tight.
 
Side note:
Conducted test Squirrel Daddy pin using sideways .380 case in LNL progressive.
Passed test, pin punches hole through case, impaling case on pin.:eek:

Ok, the truth of the matter, I was depriming only and was in a hurry and tried to deprime a .380 case that flipped sideways. (was doing about 3 coffee cans off 9mm.)
 
380s are sneaky that way. 9mm mak is even worse. I have a row of shame on the window sill next to the press. Sideways squished case, case crushed because not under die, sideways lead bullet squished and cut through case... You spend a decade on a load master and weirdness will eventually happen. They settled down once I want to the 650.
 
TheDomFather said:
Ok folks so here is a look at 3 universal decapping dies Lee, RCBS and Mighty Armory

Let me know what you think of the 3 and if the mighty armory is something you would pay $59 for?
Click to expand...

Good video Dom. Can you look into one thing that really has me interested which is off center flash holes? Supposedly these can handle those cases with no issues.
 
Kaldor said:
Good video Dom. Can you look into one thing that really has me interested which is off center flash holes? Supposedly these can handle those cases with no issues.
Click to expand...
Kaldor,
I would be happy to if I find one. I have to tell you I rarely find these but if I come across one I will be sure to post on it.
 
TheDomFather said:
Kaldor,
I would be happy to if I find one. I have to tell you I rarely find these but if I come across one I will be sure to post on it.
Click to expand...
PMC brass.
Every case I ever saw was at least slightly off-center to grossly off-center.
 
444 said:
PMC brass.
Every case I ever saw was at least slightly off-center to grossly off-center.
Click to expand...

Yup, Id have to agree with that. I have had a few in Armscor cases as well. Some Blazer pistol brass maybe too? Id actually have to look as I cull the crap and recycle as I find it. Its just not worth it.
 
Kaldor said:
Good video Dom. Can you look into one thing that really has me interested which is off center flash holes? Supposedly these can handle those cases with no issues.
Click to expand...
The Lyman system uses replaceable hardened pins which are slightly loose in the fixture, which allows them to center. I've had some crazy off-center flash holes and have not broken a pin to my memory.
 
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