Starter Guns

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I've been thinking about going to several local gun ranges.
I am new in my state and I would like to choose some starter guns.
Does anybody know any good starter guns?
 
Help us out a bit. Have you ever shot anything before? If so, what? have you had any hands-on live fire training? (Firearms safety training without range time is great, but to help advise on purchase, folks will want to know your experience so far.) If so, what?
Personally, for anyone who has never shot any sort of gun, I'd start with something in .22LR, and preferably a rifle, rather than a handgun. The small calibre .22 is to avoid the added aspect of recoil or kick, as you learn the basics of how to hold, aim, breathe, and squeeze the trigger. The rifle is so you have a more substantial physical control than you will later with a handgun. That control will increase accuracy in early training, which, in turn, will increase your self confidence.
Other, more experience members here will talk about details like single shot (load each bullet to fire) versus lever action with magazine versus semi-automatic. All have their plusses.
Once you are comfortable with the basics using a .22, move on to larger calibre. But you will always fall back to that .22 for fun plinking.
 
Stevens Favorite .22

Single shot. Hammer. Simple.

Get good with that and then progress to something else.

Revolvers with a swing out cylinder are also easy and safe.

Save the autoloaders and bigger calibers for last and have someone train you on them.
 
Wondered if you meant "entry" leve from the thread title, rather than a device used to begin racing competitions.

Tricky thing is, with beginning shooters, it's really hard to tell what they will eventually embrace.

Many make a recommendation to .22lr; which is not horrible, the light recoil is good for getting good habits built, and the lower price lets you get in the initially large number of reps to build competency.

Problem is that some .22lr pistols are awful.

And, some shooters are just better off with a medium calibler in a good gun to begin with.

I know I'm not the right person to ask. I was trained on military calibers at a very early age 9around 13-15; .45 and .30-06 respectively); I did not get to shoot a .22lr until about 17, and that was a single-shot Marlin. First .22lr pistol I ever shot was circa age 21 (some Ruger single action).
If I'm introducing people to shooting, I'll bring a wide range or arms, and people cotton on to a little bit of everything.

That's 2¢, do with it what you will.
 
IMO, the best starters are .22's from any of the big names. S&W, Ruger, Savage, Marlin, Henry, so forth. Take your pick of what style you like, learn it, and have fun.
Not only will .22 get you started if you're not used to any recoil--if that's among your considerations--it mostly just lets you afford to practice more.
 
I agree with others. Without a budget, and what you consider “starter” it’s hard to make recommendations.

Are you ok buying used? Or do you have to have a new gun?

Do you want a rifle, a pistol or a shotgun?

Now my starter guns were a 870 pump for shotgun, 9mm for pistol and AR for rifle. They seem to be the basics for many and good value. I’ve since added a 45 and will add a semi auto shotgun if I enjoy 3gun.

I’d suggest taking some classes, going to a range that rents guns and talking to friends who shoot. In fact talk to friends who shoot and I bet you a few invite you to go to the range with them. Take them up on it and see what they have and what you like and dislike. Just don’t forget to be polite and buy them a box of ammo for their time effort and such.
 
Typically I have always started out new shooters with a good .22 pistol or revolver (Ruger Mk.II, Beretta Model 70S, or a S&W Model 34), or rifle (Ruger 10/22). Once they've got the basics down I let them move up to a full size 9mm. (use to have a Star Model B for this but nowadays use a Browning Hi-Power), or a .357 revolver (S&W Model 686), loaded with light .38 Special target loads. Beyond that I have several 1911s in .45 ACP for them to try if they feel like it.
 
CapnMac writes:

Wondered if you meant "entry" level from the thread title, rather than a device used to begin racing competitions.

That's what I thought, too. I even have one I got somewhere back around 1985..
 
I agree with others that something in .22LR is the way for most people to start out. My first firearm was an old Winchester 190 rifle in that caliber. My first handgun was a revolver in .357 Magnum. Not the best choice at that time. Within three weeks of getting that one, I was back at the store for a Ruger Mk-II pistol in .22LR.

For a beginner in .22LR, Ruger pretty much fills most options with several models.For a handgun, they have the Mk-series (Mk-III and IV, and the 22/45.) These are light-triggered, single-action pistols primarily aimed (see what I did there?) at the target shooting and plinking market. The SR-22 is a compact double-action/single-action pistol that more mimics a self-defense pistol, and could very easily be put into service as one. It's light, compact, and easily carried. The Single-Six series of single-action revolvers (think cowboy guns) offer rock-solid shooting fun that doesn't burn through your ammunition supply quite as fast thanks to their slower and more-nostalgic loading process. Ruger's double-action go-to revolver is the SP-101, a fairly compact stainless shooter that makes a good trail gun. It's trigger, though, is known for being on the heavy side, a common feeling regarding triggers on double-action rimfire pistols thanks to the force needed to fire a rimfire round.

Ruger's go-to rimfire rifle/carbine is the 10/22 series. These come in many flavors, including wood-stocked, polymer-stocked, stainless, and even a "take-down" model that breaks down for portability. Aftermarket option abound and the 10/22 is quite possibly the most-often customized rifle on the market.

To give shooting a try for under $200, two options come to mind. The Marlin Model 60 is arguably the most-popular .22 rifle out there, with the 10/22 as its main contender for that title. The Heritage Rough Rider single-action revolver is an inexpensive alternative to the Single-Six, though much more roughly-finished and not known for being as long-term durable (still, I own two of them, and they're both decent and fun shooters.)

If you have at least some familiarity with firearms already, you probably wouldn't be bad off starting with something in 9mm Luger. Next to the rimfires, it's the most-available and affordable handgun round out there, and medium-to-larger framed handguns, especially all-steel ones, in it can be very easy to handle and shoot. Taurus makes a crap-ton of guns in the caliber, including a well-respected rendition of the Beretta 92 series. Smith and Wesson's M&P9 is a popular option that is also in the holsters of more than a few lawmen. Ruger makes their SR series in 9mm, in both full-size and in a compact line for carry concealed.

And, of course, there's the Glock lines..

Knowing your budget, interests (handgun, rifle, shotgun? More than one?) and motivation can steer us toward some more-specific recommendations.
 
As mentioned above, there are a bunch of questions on your interests & firearms experience that we'd need to know to give a perfect answer, BUT the following is what I would take (& have taken) to the range with adult friends who are new to shooting. Note that they aren't alone, & I cover gun safety with them as well as how each gun operates and what they should expect in firing each:

Ruger Mark pistol - .22lr, mine is an older Mark 2; low recoil, nice single action trigger; great fun and great for learning grip, sight alignment, gun handling.

Smith & Wesdon Model 10 revolver - .38 special; lets them try a revolver with moderate recoil, they get to shoot it double action (hammer down) & single action (hammer cocked). If the range you visit only has .357 magnum caliber revolvers, just use .38spl ammo in one (less recoil).

1911 in 9mm, mine is a Rock Island Armory; because of the great single action trigger of the 1911 design and the ergonomics & recoil of an all-steel gun

Either a Glock 17 or a S&W Shield, 9mm or both; big hands can grip the Glock fine, but smaller shooters grip the Shield better; these are the modern polymer, striker-fired firearm examples. If they are looking to buy one gun for home defense, it will likely be a gun like these.

This gives a new shooter a quick feel for the varieties of handguns available.
 
As mentioned above, there are a bunch of questions on your interests & firearms experience that we'd need to know to give a perfect answer, BUT the following is what I would take (& have taken) to the range with adult friends who are new to shooting. Note that they aren't alone, & I cover gun safety with them as well as how each gun operates and what they should expect in firing each:

Ruger Mark pistol - .22lr, mine is an older Mark 2; low recoil, nice single action trigger; great fun and great for learning grip, sight alignment, gun handling.

Smith & Wesdon Model 10 revolver - .38 special; lets them try a revolver with moderate recoil, they get to shoot it double action (hammer down) & single action (hammer cocked). If the range you visit only has .357 magnum caliber revolvers, just use .38spl ammo in one (less recoil).

1911 in 9mm, mine is a Rock Island Armory; because of the great single action trigger of the 1911 design and the ergonomics & recoil of an all-steel gun

Either a Glock 17 or a S&W Shield, 9mm or both; big hands can grip the Glock fine, but smaller shooters grip the Shield better; these are the modern polymer, striker-fired firearm examples. If they are looking to buy one gun for home defense, it will likely be a gun like these.

This gives a new shooter a quick feel for the varieties of handguns available.

The S&W SD9VE is a nice gun for the money. If OP can find one used at a good price they'd be wise to jump on it as I've seen used ones going for close to what new ones go for. They aren't as expensive as a Clock or M&P but decent guns for the money. Plus if they don't like shooting they could get rid of it and not lose much or anything.
 
A good starter gun should be fun, first of all. Secondly, it should be low cost to purchase. Next, it should be cheap to shoot. It should also be EASY to shoot well. And finally, it should be reliable -- nothing is more frustrating that a gun that misfeeds, fails to fire and so on.

All of that says, ".22 rifle." There are several choices -- Savage, Ruger and Marlin make good bolt actions. They also make semiautomatics that would be good choices. Henry and Marlin make lever actions. Pick what you like, get 500 to 1000 rounds and head for the range.
 
A .22lr is easiest and most recommended. If your range permits rifles, go with a rifle first.
Most of my pals growing up started handgun shooting with a Ruger Single- six or Ruger Standard semi-auto.
If you're interested in target shooting, a .22lr may be all you'll ever need. If hunting or protection are your concerns, hone your skills on the cost effective .22lr before moving up in caliber
 
This is just general information WHICH IS MY OPINION ONLY so take from it what nuggets that you find useful.

What do you want to do with it? Hunt? Self-Defense? Target Shooting? Not sure? Are you in an urban or rural location? How coordinated are you? What is your budget? etc. Do you ever plan on carrying concealed? If you answer these questions, you may get more specific answers.

The old recommendation that I heard was that you need a .22 handgun, a shotgun (pump, single shot, or double barrelled), a .38 revolver, and at least a .22 caliber rifle/bolt or semi-auto. Nowadays, things aren't so clear.

What I would recommend not knowing your answers to any of the above questions, is that you go to a firearms familiarization course first, NRA and gun ranges are always a good bet for these. Often it is the case that you get to handle various firearms under safe conditions with supervision, learn some basics about firearm safety, and learn general operation of some firearms. You can get this also via proper books and videos/television if you get the Outdoors Channel.

Unless you have medical issues with your hands, I would recommend for self defense as an adult starting with a used or new 9mm semi-automatic pistol that fits your hands. You should be able to reach all of the critical control levers without changing your firing grip. You will have to practice with it at the range enough so that the operation, takedown for cleaning, and reloading it. The ammunition is cheap, most adults can handle a 9mm, and the design itself reduces felt recoil versus a revolver. The polymer revolution has people that favor various models and you can find that debate on the THR semi-auto forum. Glocks, S&W M&P, and Rugers, Springfield Armory, are popular for various reasons-my advice is to try them out and buy the one easiest for you to operate--simpler controls are usually better.

Some will recommend a revolver. A standard 3-4 inch barrel double action .38 caliber revolver made by Ruger, S&W, (or if you are on a strict budget, Rossi, Taurus, or Charter) can be quite easy to learn to shoot. It is more difficult for many to shoot well in double action without significant range time as it has a much stiffer trigger pull. The grips do need to fit your hand and distance to trigger is very important for good fast double action shooting (the trigger should be in the power crease of the first joint of your trigger finger--not the pad). I do not recommend developing single action firing techniques until you are comfortable with double action firing as how you practice would be how you will shoot. Single action in a DA revolver is more for target shooting. The .357 Magnum revolvers used to be king of the hill and these revolvers are made stronger to fire the .357 Magnum round but you can shoot .38 special or .38 +P (higher pressure than standard ammo) quite nicely. Usually these are also heavier which absorbs some of the recoil. Due to cost of ammo and training, things like .44 Special, .45 ACP or Colt revolvers, single action revolvers, etc. present difficulties and can be quite expensive. When a beginner, avoid the very light weight revolvers--service revolver weight are the easiest to learn to shoot.

Snubbies are short barrelled revolvers that can be shot very accurately if you practice--they are more concealable. But, the recoil and trigger pull are significantly enhanced which affects accuracy and can discourage training with them. Shoot one before buying one.

An advantage that a double action revolvers have over semi-automatics is that operating them is simpler---easy to check if loaded, unloaded, easy to clean, no removal of springs, barrels, takedown links, etc., and no safety other than a heavy double action trigger pull. But, that same trigger pull can cause people to be inaccurate with a revolver unless you fire enough rounds to become accustomed to it. Single action revolvers represent the best of 1800's technology and are useful for special applications unless you spend the time training with them.

I like revolvers and started with them but they do take getting use to the trigger pull for some. However, it will ironically make you a better shot on rifles if you keep up your practice--if you can master a heavy trigger pull and doing a full reset, it sets you up nicely to operate semi-auto pistols and rifles with much lighter trigger pull weights.

Rifles other than .22 Long Rifles are more specialized. Do you want to hunt? Some states have restrictions on what you can use. Do you want to fire at a range? How much recoil are you comfortable with? How much do you want to pay for ammo? Where can you fire it?
Start with a .22 rifle--a Savage 64, a Marlin 60 or 795, or a Remington can be had for well under $200 even sometimes with a decent scope. A Ruger 10/22 can be a good choice and is a bit more expensive--however there are a lot of accessories for it. It is the AR of the .22 LR world. After that, it depends on what you want to do with it regarding caliber and stocks etc. Semi-autos/lever actions/pump actions/bolt actions or even single shots can be useful depending on ammo availability, legal restrictions on ownership, use in hunting, etc. Try again before you buy (other than a .22) because people differ in their ability to handle recoil.

Finally shotguns, they are the old versatile standby and good for areas with a lot of legal restrictions on ownership. They are quite powerful and can be deadly at short range with the proper ammunition. You can also use them with slugs or buckshot for hunting some game, birdshot for bird hunting, and recreation--trap and skeet. You can get everything from a cheap single shot up to a semi-automatic with a magazine if you like. Ammo is cheap and available even during ammo scares and they are affordable. However, in an urban area, it can be difficult to find ranges willing to let you fire a shotgun because of range policies. And you need to practice with it as it does require aiming and you need to know what the pattern is of your shotgun. Even a single shot or double barreled shotgun can be reloaded quite fast if you practice and resemble a revolver in simplicity. Pump actions do take some training to properly operate the action and can be difficult for those with arm issues. Semi-autos are the most expensive and the softest recoiling.

Regarding 12, 16 (rare), or 20 gauge shotguns, the easiest to learn with is the 20 gauge which is versatile, cheap ammo, and lighter recoil than a twelve. However, the energy of the 20 gage compares to two .44 Magnum shells fired at the same time. Twelve gauge is common, heavier in recoil, and more often more useful for hunting. It can be unpleasant firing them with 3 inch or 3 1/2 inch shells or slugs but they do have reduced recoil buckshot for self defense and standard 2 3/4 inch shells are not too bad if you avoid the light stocks. One thing is that you can also buy recoil reducing stocks for some models which can help.

Good luck with your decision, and if you narrow it down, the people at THR will guide you straight if you have any questions.
 
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Help us out a bit. Have you ever shot anything before? If so, what? have you had any hands-on live fire training? (Firearms safety training without range time is great, but to help advise on purchase, folks will want to know your experience so far.) If so, what?
Personally, for anyone who has never shot any sort of gun, I'd start with something in .22LR, and preferably a rifle, rather than a handgun. The small calibre .22 is to avoid the added aspect of recoil or kick, as you learn the basics of how to hold, aim, breathe, and squeeze the trigger. The rifle is so you have a more substantial physical control than you will later with a handgun. That control will increase accuracy in early training, which, in turn, will increase your self confidence.
Other, more experience members here will talk about details like single shot (load each bullet to fire) versus lever action with magazine versus semi-automatic. All have their plusses.
Once you are comfortable with the basics using a .22, move on to larger calibre. But you will always fall back to that .22 for fun plinking.

I have experience with Automatic firearms, starter BB guns, and games that consist of Call of Duty MW2, HALO 1,2,3,4,5 , and Combat arms.

I started out with Rifles. Specifically Automatics. My father once owned a few guns. My mother also owned a rifle.

I'd rather choose a light-weight gun, or any gun that feels comfortable in my palms.

I also go to a local gun range and gun store that helps and monitors you over the basics of aim, precise holding of any gun, and how to shoot faster with targets.
 
^^ By "Automatics", are you referring to firearms that, with each press of the trigger, one round is fired, the spent shell ejected, and the next round is chambered, but a second press of the trigger is required to fire that next round (one press, one shot?) These are referred to "semi-automatic" or, sometimes, "autoloaders."

Or, are you referring to a firearm that fires continuously as long as the trigger is held back, until it's either released or all of the ammunition is fired off? These are referred to as "automatics" or "fully-automatics" (they fire in the same manner as a "machine gun" does.)

By this query, I'm specifically asking about guns you've actually handled, not those in virtual gaming. I'm not a gamer, so I cannot comment on how much one can learn about the manual-of-arms of any firearm from a video game.

I'd rather choose a light-weight gun, or any gun that feels comfortable in my palms.

By this, it seems you're leaning toward a handgun. The mid-sized and full-sized, polymer-framed semi-autos are going to rule this crowd, and versions of many of them are available in .22LR (Smith and Wesson M&P22 comes to mind) if you decide to go that route. Other suggestions have been well-covered by posters above.
 
I have experience with Automatic firearms, starter BB guns, and games that consist of Call of Duty MW2, HALO 1,2,3,4,5 , and Combat arms.

I started out with Rifles. Specifically Automatics. My father once owned a few guns. My mother also owned a rifle.

I'd rather choose a light-weight gun, or any gun that feels comfortable in my palms.

I also go to a local gun range and gun store that helps and monitors you over the basics of aim, precise holding of any gun, and how to shoot faster with targets.

Noticed that you were a new poster--btw Welcome to the High Road forum.

Medwheeler gives some good advice above,

This is what I would add. Some ranges rent firearms, I would suggest trying any of them before you buy--used firearms are like cars--they lose resale value once used. Something that looks good may not feel so good under recoil. This is especially true for lightweight firearms that are in calibers useful for self defense such as 9mm. Remember, for every action, there is a separate but equal reaction. The force of what goes out of the barrel--the bullet, is countered by the firearm recoiling back into the hand. The more powerful the cartridge, the more powerful the recoil into your hands. The weight of the firearm though resists movement--lighter guns resist less in moving back than heavier ones--thus the felt recoil will be higher for a lighter firearm than a heavier one, all other things being equal.

There are certain tricks to reduce that force but they introduce additional issues. The easiest is to get a semi-automatic pistol that uses part of the recoil force to operate the mechanism. A second is to have a heavier firearm. I am not particularly recoil averse but firing a .380 ACP PPK--the James Bond gun (not the PPK/S) due to its slim design stings my hand when firing while a .45 ACP in an Springfield XD pistol or a .38 Model 15 S&W revolver is quite sedate.

9mm in very light weight firearms is not particularly pleasant in recoil, it can be managed just like you can get used to using a sledgehammer to break up concrete. But, muzzle blast and time in recovery before firing a second shot can also be an issue. Now, people differ in their hand's sensitivity to recoil, but if it hurts each trigger pull--you will receive negative incentive to practice much and it will affect your accuracy. Worst, you can develop a flinch--reacting before the firearm goes off that can be hard to break.

For those reasons, I agree with MedWheeler to find a .22 semi automatic pistol but find one that matches whatever line of larger caliber pistols that you may want to buy. Some like Glocks--ISSC makes a .22 that closely resembles a Glock in handling and feel. Smith and Wesson as MedWheeler mentioned above, makes a .22 M&P little brother to their series of firearms. There are .22's that act and feel like the venerable 1911. And so on. Target type .22 firearms may introduce you into target shooting but for example--the Ruger 22/45 is a fine .22 starter firearm but it was specifically designed to replicate firing a 1911 type pistol in the location of controls. If you do not like 1911's, then you are spending time with a firearm's control that does not resemble a Glock.

Last, but not least, make sure that you know the firearms laws of your state and comply with them. Many states have firearm rights organizations that explain the laws in plain language. Also be careful if you plan on taking your firearm out of state--you should know those states' laws too. I strongly recommend taking a firearms familiarization courses offered by the NRA and others--this is a topic that a good course usually covers as well as the mechanics of shooting.
 
Best bang for the buck---.22 Ruger, either pistol (one of the MK), rifle(10/22) or SA revolver(Single Six or whatever number it's up to) Near impossible to outgrow these, They're affordable to buy and shoot, excellent starters for competition, good for hunting, and if you're a creative type there are all sorts of doo-dads for customizing.
 
22LRs are the way to go. Figure out what you want first. If it's a portable rifle,
consider the 10/22 Takedown. The selection of pistols is great, just consider that
22LR is very dirty ammo, so you will also get the chance to clean your new gun's
action regularly.
 
I think without answering the questions being asked (several times now) that no amount of advice will be worth more than you're paying for.

What complicates matters is that your first post was an inquiry about how to convert semi-automatics to automatics and that runs a red flag up the pole for me.

We are a community here that enjoys sharing information, experience, and advice freely, but you've yet to be forthcoming about details that matter.
 
and games that consist of Call of Duty MW2, HALO 1,2,3,4,5 , and Combat arms.

Those are red flag indicators around the firearms community telling us that we're working with a beginner that has a lot to unlearn.

Take a firearm safety class, go to a rental range and under supervision, paid if need be, try to find the firearm that fits you pointing naturally and matching your reach to the trigger based on finger and hand size. Try to find a trainer who will go through the basics with you on how to slowly and accurately fire the firearm. Forget everything from games. They're entertainment for rainy days when you have nothing useful you could be doing, not training material.
 
Stevens Favorite .22

Single shot. Hammer. Simple.

Get good with that and then progress to something else.

Revolvers with a swing out cylinder are also easy and safe.

Save the autoloaders and bigger calibers for last and have someone train you on them.

A single shot firearm will get you to make that one shot count, where a multi shot fire arm is likely to get you to rely on a second or third shot to get it where it needs to be. I killed a lot of ducks with my old Ithaca model 66 single shot. I think I missed more once I bought my Winchester Model 12 heavy duck 12 ga.
 
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