Filling Remington 700 Iron Sight Holes

Mask around the screw head, file close, polish clean, and cold blue the heads. I think that's as close as you'll get to perfect cover without extensive refinishing.

With careful hand work, you should be able to get the screw tops within 0.005ish of flush, and blued to be close. Don't forget an appropriate threadlock.

I'd take them out and run the bottom end of the screws over a grind belt or a file to shorten then up.

desidog said:

I'd take them out and run the bottom end of the screws over a grind belt or a file to shorten then up.

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This.

You can use a depth gauge to determine the necessary plug screw length. Once the length is correct, high temp loctite them in place to allow future removal - but only INTENTIONAL removal. There are guys out there who could fill and well the holes, then reblue, but you're talking about a lot more expense than a guy should go to for a simple hole plug job.

GunAdmirer said:

The screws are already really tiny. I think I would find it impossible to grind or sand anymore off the bottom.

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This little device is made for holding tiny screws while you shorten and deburr them -
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...heels/screw-holder-gizzie-trade--prod599.aspx

You insert the screw and pivot the opposite side of the tool over the head to keep it in place while you grind in the threaded end. Works great.

I made my own "fixture" for shortening screws. I have a piece of half inch square stock with 6-48 and 8-40 holes. I run the plug screw through the stock such the inside end is sticking proud on the opposite side, drop in a plastic bead (protects the bluing on the plug screw), then follow behind it with a plug screw. This holds the target screw in place, and lets me pick precisely the length I want to remove.

You may want to consider leaving the irons on the rifle just in case your scope decides to go south on you.

There are two types of sight-hole filler screws, as far as I can determine. The first type is like a slotted set screw (same diameter throughout), and, depending on the depth of the hole, when tightened the screw can go below the surface of the barrel or receiver. Or, if the hole is shallow, they can stick up above the surface. (These are the screws, for example, that are supplied with Ruger Mark III and IV pistols. I think a lot of manufacturers use these to save a few pennies.)

The second type of filler screw has a slightly domed and mushroomed head, so that it stops right at the surface of the hole. (The top of the hole should be slightly chamfered, so that the mushroomed part of the screw bottoms out against this chamfer, and not at the bottom of the hole.) This second type is far preferable, and gives the gun a more finished and professional appearance. You can even selectively pick screws so that all the slots line up. (These are available, believe it or not, at Ace Hardware -- in both blued and stainless.)

It's certainly worth the few cents to replace the first type with the second type, if you're unlucky enough to have the first type.

There is an old method for filling scope mount screw holes in gun receivers. You would get a screw a little longer then the depth of the hole. Heat the screw to almost cherry red. Let cool and screw it tight into the hole. Shave off the top of the screw, peen and then use a file to shape to the surface.

AlexanderA in post #9 beat me to it. There are different type plug screws. Also shortening the screw from the bottom end works well also. I am not sure the screw holder from Brownell's will hold a headless screw, but if not there are other methods as pointed out.

As a rural gunsmith I hated the domed type filler plugs. As AlexanderA stated above the non domed type will go flush or just below which is what you want. I've removed hundreds of iron sights for customers and I always plugged the holes is this type. Benefit is you can change back any time in future with NO trouble.
But when I closed shop around 2000, they were as scarce as hens teeth. Good luck!

BBBBill said:

This little device is made for holding tiny screws while you shorten and deburr them -
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...heels/screw-holder-gizzie-trade--prod599.aspx

You insert the screw and pivot the opposite side of the tool over the head to keep it in place while you grind in the threaded end. Works great.

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Watch the viedo on that Brownells listing..It shows how to use scrap flat steel to hold the screw in place to grind on..Then the only tool that you would need to buy would be the proper tap=$3.00-$4.00 @ most Ace Hardwares..Bill.
PS:That is provided that you have the correct size drill bit/drill..

Most of the factory filler screws get tossed when a scope is installed, but many shops have some around that good customers can have freebie. If that is not possible, Brownells has plug screws in both common sizes but the cost is high on a one-off basis,

Jim

billybob44 said:

Watch the viedo on that Brownells listing..It shows how to use scrap flat steel to hold the screw in place to grind on..Then the only tool that you would need to buy would be the proper tap=$3.00-$4.00 @ most Ace Hardwares..Bill.
PS:That is provided that you have the correct size drill bit/drill..

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Yeah. Got 'em all (taps/drills/etc) and I have done that, both for myself and a buddy. Most folks don't want to buy taps for one time use, hence the reason I just suggested the screw gizzie from Brownells.

You are right on the one time use..I am a retired Auto Service Tech, and part time tinker.

Seems like most people that deal with sights, scope mounts, screws, etc would want the several size taps to chase threads, or other work..Bill.