Trimmer help

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RussellC said:
Great, not from little crow, but they are way reliable outfit. ....which one fits the little crow original?

Would this be the preferable type?
https://www.mcmaster.com/#cobalt-steel-end-mills/=1b4k9rq

Russellc
Click to expand...

Yes. The McMaster part number that would work in the WFT is 2883A15
Little Crow uses a standard end mill as the cutter in their tool, that anyone can get on their own. They do not use anything proprietary. Which is a good thing.:)
 
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glc24 said:
Yes. The McMaster part number that would work in the WFT is 2883A15
Little Crow uses a standard end mill as the cutter in their tool, that anyone can get on their own. They do not use anything proprietary. Which is a good thing.:)
Click to expand...


Just under 20.00 before shipping I'll try one!

Russellc
 
So the cobalt steel is more durable than HSS?

I read reviews for trimmers that indicated carbide, while lasting longer, did not trim as smoothly as HSS. If cobalt steel is longer lasting than HSS, I’ll give it a try in my CTS trimmer.
 
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It will definitely last longer, and should be smooth enough to satisfy you. I go behind and deburr and chamfer anyway, so it isn't super important. That inside chamfer is the more important edge as far as bullet seating.
 
Walkalong said:
It will definitely last longer, and should be smooth enough to satisfy you. I go behind and deburr and chamfer anyway, so it isn't super important. That inside chamfer is the more important edge as far as bullet seating.
Click to expand...
I deburr and chamfer as well. I’m not likely to wear out my cutter, but if I do...
 
Big Wes said:
Here's another trimmer for you to look at not a three way but it works. http://www.newhighpower.com/brass-trimmers.html
Click to expand...
Much like the CTS trimmer I have but cheaper. The CTS trimmer has a polymer shoulder bushing. This WCT looks like it is all machined steel or aluminum (guessing). CTS will make a custom trimmer for you if you supply a few sized cases.
WCT has one set screw. CTS has 2 set screws.
With all that said, the WCT looks like it would work well.
 
:cool:
RussellC said:
Agreed.

No doubt they are not the most accurate method, Im sure Sinclair makes something that will cut each individual case to the nearest .001 inch, but I rarely find that necessary. With .223, it is darn hard to set it to exactly 1.750 trim to length, but 1.74 to 1.753 or so is close enough for AR work with Lake City Once fired brass for me.. In my bolt gun its good for less than 1 MOA, closer to 1/2 MOA.

That said, I am making more precision brass for bolt guns and will use Lapua for that....so I am eyeballing a really precise cutter, one with micrometer adjustment for rounds that really need to be spec on. Now with that said, my shooting might not show the difference!

One thing is for certain, if your friend wants to do 1000 .223 brass one at the time, he can certainly do so, his choice. The speed with which the little WFT can dispatch them is WAY faster. As to not cutting them square, if it is off it likely isnt enough to lose sleep over...after knocking off the ridge, they stand straight enough on a flat surface by the eyeball method. When you start worrying to that degree, you might really get upset at the basic manufacturing tolerances in some brass.

I use one for .300 Black out too, and worry even less with it.

If you are a big F class Benchrest shooter, buy the best, forget about how long it takes and carry on, sleeping soundly at night knowing you have done all you can equipment wise in your preparation. On the other hand, with my bolt guns and more accurate AR platforms doing better than 1 MOA, I sleep fine anyway.

Russellc
Click to expand...

That sums it up nicely. A few thoughts on the WFT: consistent angle and pressure across cases are things I have addressed, due to the potential for wobble of the case. I always brace hand held devices against my body at the same angle and location Every time. Some have mentioned heavy burrs around top of case after trimming. I start with very light pressure until the top has uniformed. It just seems to me that too much pressure would cause burrs. The old adage "let the tool do the cutting" has proven useful for me. I don't see how using a sharp tool with appropriate pressure applied at a perpendicular can roll the edge.

Frequent trimmer cleaning has really helped for me. Then too, sometimes one has to bite the bullet, so to speak, and buy a new cutter bit.

While this tool is really fast, I know that I will end up buying a Wilson for better accuracy, though the WFT is, IMHO, good enough for hunting cartridges and that which you mentioned, of course.

I hesitate to buy an electric trimmer, cuz the wife will hear it and ask if I wasted more money on another "toy". Short answer: "Yup. Yard sale...2 bucks!":cool:
 
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Walkalong said:
It will definitely last longer, and should be smooth enough to satisfy you. I go behind and deburr and chamfer anyway, so it isn't super important. That inside chamfer is the more important edge as far as bullet seating.
Click to expand...

Which cuts smoother, HSS or carbide?
 
Blue68f100 said:
Actually I think cobalt is a better choice for brass and manual cutters. Carbide likes heavy cuts and does not do well with light cuts. Cobalt is sharper and tuffer than HSS and is capable of lighter cuts than carbide. It can not take the heat that carbide can.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanx
 
Blue68f100 said:
The inaccuracy with these drill press mounted trimmers is the cartridge pilot that is too short. Most all only support 1/2" of the neck/shoulder area and it's a loose fit so you can get tilting. When I made mine I use chamber reamers if I had them to make them around 1.25" long. Need to still have something to hold on to. But with the extended length and tighter tolerance eliminates any tilting. So if your shoulder are square with the bolt face evert thing is true. Just as true as a one of the hand lathe trimmers but 100 times faster.
Click to expand...

Don't perhaps know a source for a cheap br chamber reamer...?
 
quest4perfection said:
Which cuts smoother, HSS or carbide?
Click to expand...
There are just as sharp carbide end mill cutters. But they will chip in the blink of an eye. These carbides are a waste for soft metals, because of the likelihood of damage is greater than the longevity of the cutting edge. A good quality HSS (M-2,, M-7, M-42-cobalt) will last most a lifetime with proper care.
 
kcofohio said:
There are just as sharp carbide end mill cutters. But they will chip in the blink of an eye. These carbides are a waste for soft metals, because of the likelihood of damage is greater than the longevity of the cutting edge. A good quality HSS (M-2,, M-7, M-42-cobalt) will last most a lifetime with proper care.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Thanks. Wishing there was a tool to smooth the inside of the mouth afterwards without using makeshifts.
 
HSS is normally sharper than carbide, cobalt sharper than HSS. Some of the new micro grain carbide are really sharp but 2-3 time the price of HSS or cobalt.

The burr at the cut is due to a dull cutter or being carbide, rolling the edge and not cutting. Like I said earlier carbide likes heavy cuts and fast feed rates. This is why I recommend cobalt, a better cutter for our application.

As far as finding cheap reamers, good luck with that. If your around a shop that does a bunch of chamber work you may be able to get one that at it's end of life. For what we are using it for you don't care about the leads/pilot.

I have 223R min spec reamer that I used on one of my guides for the trimmer I made. This is my adjustable one that I use for my 223R. I reused the 3-way trimmer that came with the Trim-It II. It now cuts even all the way around the mouth with no twisting of the brass to even it out.

Adj Brass Trimmer.jpg
Adj Brass Trimmer 2.jpg

These are my nonadjustable ones. The one with the short shank is used in my lathe.
Brass Trimmers.jpg

My guide bushing just push into the bearing. They were cut to fit the profile of the cartridge taper, and bottom out on the shoulder. The length is long enough so they feed in straight with no tilting. The one on the right has a carbide cutter in it, the other HSS. I have some cobalt cutters coming the next time I place an order.
 
Blue68f100 said:
HSS is normally sharper than carbide, cobalt sharper than HSS. Some of the new micro grain carbide are really sharp but 2-3 time the price of HSS or cobalt.

The burr at the cut is due to a dull cutter or being carbide, rolling the edge and not cutting. Like I said earlier carbide likes heavy cuts and fast feed rates. This is why I recommend cobalt, a better cutter for our application.

As far as finding cheap reamers, good luck with that. If your around a shop that does a bunch of chamber work you may be able to get one that at it's end of life. For what we are using it for you don't care about the leads/pilot.

I have 223R min spec reamer that I used on one of my guides for the trimmer I made. This is my adjustable one that I use for my 223R. I reused the 3-way trimmer that came with the Trim-It II. It now cuts even all the way around the mouth with no twisting of the brass to even it out.

View attachment 775395
View attachment 775394

These are my nonadjustable ones. The one with the short shank is used in my lathe.
View attachment 775396

My guide bushing just push into the bearing. They were cut to fit the profile of the cartridge taper, and bottom out on the shoulder. The length is long enough so they feed in straight with no tilting. The one on the right has a carbide cutter in it, the other HSS. I have some cobalt cutters coming the next time I place an order.
Click to expand...

Outstanding
 
VAReloader said:
In a recent thread, someone mentioned a 3 way trimmer that is purpose built for each caliber. Used in a drill or drill press. I though I bookmarked the website, but obviously had a brain fade and can't find it now.
I can tell you what it's not.
Trim-It II
WFT from Little Crow
Giraud
Wilson
RCBS
Redding

It is only sold on the owners website, no retailer or ebay.

I have done searches but still no luck.
Click to expand...
Definitely not WFT from Little crow, I have those and they do not chamfer and debur.
 
quest4perfection said:
Good to know. Thanks. Wishing there was a tool to smooth the inside of the mouth afterwards without using makeshifts.
Click to expand...
I do that by hand, using the Lyman vla reamer, which cuts a more sloping angle, which aids bullet insertion, especially with flat end non boat tail bullets. Slow, but I can go through plenty enough for bolt duty. I found it helped a lot towards preventing buckling of the .300 BO cases with flat end type bullets.

For more general work, I find the WFT doesn't leave a big burr if you take your time, and give it a couple twists before taking it out. I do most of the cut easy, then push it home giving a couple twists.

I have not yet resized any of my "precision" brass for bolt guns...I anticipate a problem using the WFT, with unfull length sized brass the case wont fit in its collar. I figure on neck sizing only on the next go with the brass I full length sizes, which is once fired Lake City. I find the new brass I bought doesn't need full length sizing the first go...it goes in the sizer with no contact!

That's why I want a Sinclair or other precision micrometer cutter for that job.

Russellc
 
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